Subway4X3 Shameless Copycat Build

Hot damn, I'm getting frustrated for you just reading this. Good job keeping a relatively calm head.

 

@jowybyo and @Fifthwind
So, this is the electrical check process?
1. Switch to 2H
2. Unplug and check pin continuity based on diagram.
3. Switch to 4H
4. Unplug and check pin continuity based on diagram.
5. If wrong, open cover, re-adjust gear timing.
6. Switch to 2H, then back to 4H
7. Unplug and check pin continuity.
8. If wrong, open cover, re-adjust gear timing.
9. Continue until pin continuity checks ok.

 

Does one necessarily have to deal with the stub? All I remember is unbolting the tube and transferring it to the new diff

 

Sounds like a plan

 

maybe just get a new one off eBay for $154 shipped and give that a shot... just saying, might be worth ruling out the part all together?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TOYOTA-GENU...ash=item2376b76e47:g:f4AAAOSwax5YxsHg&vxp=mtr

 

@jowybyo @Fifthwind
Electrical continuity checks are good.

In 2WD
Confirmed NO continuity between pins
3 and 4
3 and 5

Confirmed YES continuity between pins
4 and 6


In 4WD
Confirmed YES continuity between pins
3 and 4
3 and 5

Confirmed NO continuity between pins
4 and 6

 

Because I'm cheap and saving my money for 35's

 

Yes. It has a c clip on the splines just like a cv shaft. That pops into the diff internals. Think of it as an output shaft. Then it has splines on it that the add slide into to engage the passenger side of the front end. You have to pop that out and install it in the new diff when you swap clamshells. Ask @HolyHandGrenade he knows

 

@Subway4X4 i fear the only way your really gonna know what's going on in there is to take the add tube off and have a look inside

 

Right, but not like you have to take it out of the ADD tube or anything like that...right?
Unbolt from one diff, pop it off, pop it in new diff and bolt again....

Right?

 

If the stub, is not seated properly, would you be able to still BOLT it to the diff?

 

Looking at that diagram, 6 is labeled as ground, 4 is DL2, 3 is DL1, and 5 is ADD. I don't think 4 should have continuity with 6 in 2WD. @jowybo ?

 

Right on.

 

Not sure you're looking at the same diagram as me.

 

I think you're looking at the pin #s wrong Murph. #4 is ground. 6 is DL-1, 3 is ADD.
I circled the pin #s in this pic. And labeled 1, 4 and 6. I didn't label 2, 3 and 5 to avoid cluttering the diagram.

 

I remember now. I actually took a pic of the gear assembly before I took it apart last week. Then returned everything to its exact timing position.

 

That Boy Scout Electricity merit badge finally paid off.

 

I was starting to suspect that we were using different numbers, which is why I added the labels to my post. I was using the numbers by the ec-1 boxes. This clears up my confusion that started last night. Sounds like the ADD is good, thanks for translating Lloyd.

 

I'm glad I did this exercise. It completely rules out the ADD actuator as a problem.

 

3WD!