Home Improvement Today?

What was a pain in the ass with it compared to a traditional toilet?

 

I need to do this. I have a square scuttle hole right now. I hate using a ladder to get up in there.

 

Is the hole in the wall going to be a magazine rack or toilet paper holder?

 

Bath is looking great
I hate showing up and customer has a toilet like that from box store
It takes longer and they pay more.

 

Mostly it was the closet bolts that hold the toilet down are concealed in the structure. There are small round porthole in the sides (you can see they are capped off in the pics) that you're supposed to reach through to tighten the bolts down, however there just isn't much room plus the bolts are loose and move around a lot until you get the nut tight. I couldn't get the nut started as there was no room to hold the bolt still while twisting on the nut. I found it "easier" to straddle the toilet in reverse and reach around behind it and come in through the back. Still difficult to do, but it worked out in the end.

Toilet paper. It is the only spot available. On the other side of the 1/2 wall is a niche for shower stuff. I wish I had configured it a bit different so the TP is not so low... Next I'm going to build a wooden box to slide in, add some moulding to the outside and stain it to match the cabinets.

Lol. When I did my guest bath I had my contractor install the tub. The bath is small, just barely wider than a tub. I demo'd everything myself and it was a bitch. 1950's bathroom that had inches thick mortar reinforced with metal. The tub was cast iron. I couldn't get it out in 1 piece (I really tried) and had to cut/bust it out. When it came time for a new tub he recommended this lightweight thing from HD. I checked it out and it felt cheap and flimsy. So no. I ended up buying this steel/porcelain thing that was, I have to say, quite heavy. He was not amused! Installation day was interesting.

 

Now did you get a kiss afterwards for those actions taken?

 

was this hard to do? one of the many things i want to do to my house is add attic access in the garage.

 

I can't speak for him but mine was a fair amount of work. Really depends on what you're starting with and how far you want to go.

The first pic is whay my garage ceiling looked like when I bought it, except there was a lot more crap resting on those spindly, sagging 2x4's spanning the width of the garage.



I wanted to create storage space and needed to beef up the rafters, so I added 2x8's and put them on top of the top plates of the walls (just to get a little more height in the garage). I may have went a little overboard but it wasn't that much more $. I used OSB panels for the floor and also insulated it.



When I installed the pull down ladder I added a few lag bolts, just because. It's created a lot of usable space where there really wasn't any. If you already have sufficient joists in place then I would say it's a fairly straightforward process and not that hard.

 

How can I calculate if my joists are large enough to support attic storage over my garage. I have a great big space up there that would be great for storage. I want to add blow in insulation and then cover that with sheets of osb. Will ventilation be a concern as well?

 

I'm not a professional, but I've heard that you should measure the span, divide that by 2, then add 2. The result should be the minimum size joist you need. So if you have a 12' span you should have 2x8 joists. Because 12/2=6 and 6+2=8

That being said, my span was about 13' and I only have 2x6 but I put blocking in between the joists and half inch osb on top.

Someone else please chime in, because I'm not sure.

 

Whats the free span , lumber size , species , grade and OC spacing ?

I can check the span tables and tell you if they would be OK up here

 

Not bad for the mountain house...

 

what flooring is that?

 

It's that porcelain tile from Lowe's that is 6x18...i think that's the size. I really like it.

 

Might be 24...none here to measure.

 

What color?

 

Maybe one of you can help...

New cedar 5/4 decking, temps between 45-55 f. Seattle area.

I put Behr #4000 Transparent Penetrating Oil Wood Finish Clear Exterior Stain on too heavy and it won't dry.

I applied it 5 days ago (heavy because I wanted it to coat the edges of the boards too by running down the sides) and saw by day 2 that it wasn’t going to dry. Deck area is 128 sf and I used 95% of a gallon can, almost twice the recommended (I know, I know... now). But I thought that the tops would be fine at near the recommended rate and the excess would go down the sides. I was not quite right.

So I called the Behr support line and she told me to go over the whole thing with a thin coat of mineral spirits to even it all out. I did that 2 days ago and it worked great. But it STILL is not dry enough to walk on without shoe tread marks showing in the finish, and rain (which fell 18 hours after I completed the mineral spirits wipe-down) shows blotchiness.

All I really care about is getting it to dry so it's not tacky, so I can walk on and put chairs on the deck. At this point, there are no visually heavy areas, it all looks good and not thick, very consistent, but a shoe will leave faint tracks because of the tackiness.

What to do?

 

More mineral spirites

 

Yeah? Like rub harder this time pardon the pun? If in the meantime I walk on the deck, do you think the next mineral spirits hard rubdown will remove any shoe tracks left in any tacky spots? It's barely tacky, just enough to leave light prints of shoe treads.