Based on these measurements, are new uca’s needed?

2003 DC 4WD V6
OME 883/RCD D558 on lowest setting
Ended up with ~3” lift (maybe a touch more)

I need some input before spending $500-$600 on new UCA’s.

Cross posted on Suspension forum.

 

That cross camber is terrible. They need to get that in spec, you will have very poor tire wear otherwise. I usually shoot for 0 camber and 0 toe.
Yes UCAs will help get your camber and caster back in spec, if you want full control over the adjustment the SPC arms can adjust caster and camber.

 

Funny you focus on the camber, which is valid, while another member on the suspension forum (cross posted), focused on the caster. LOL

What about the thrust angle of -0.11 deg (dog tracking)?

 

I'm more concerned about tire contact and wear over time, thus getting camber in spec is more important to me. As you've found out by driving around, low caster in these trucks doesn't really affect the driveability very much. I've had ~0.5 degrees of caster with 35" tires for over a year, doesn't really change how it tracks or drives down the highway.

Thrust angle may be because of asymmetrical setting of the LCAs, which seems likely considering how far off the camber (and to a smaller degree the caster) are. I wouldn't worry about that until you have those numbers where you want them, then see where the thrust angle is at. Otherwise it's due to rear axle alignment, which you can't adjust (at least not very easily).

 

Another vote for uca's.

What would you rather spend 500-700 on uca's

Or a new set of tires

Install isn't to bad, worst part is pressing the ball joint out.

 

After reviewing Toyota specs, the above numbers are in spec although some aren't not optimal. Maybe I should just "leave it be" until if/when I notice an issue?

 

Unless the spec changed from '02 to '03, neither your cross-camber or caster numbers are in spec. If you want to wait and see how driveability is affected by the caster numbers before deciding to purchase UCAs, probably not an issue. I wouldn't leave the camber where its at for a long time though, you'll get funky tire wear after a while.

 

Here are my numbers w/ Camburg UCA's. And a 3" Icon lift. I have 265/75/16 BFG KO2's Load E tires. Plus Toyota's specs don't apply once you have a 3" lift.

 

Nope. The right to left camber error remains at 0.5*. My sheet alignment sheet shows LF @ 0.5* and RF @ 0.4*. Unless I am REALLY bad at math, that's a difference of only 0.1*. Well within the tolerance. Am I missing something? BTW, I have the VZN170L-PRPDKAB.

 

Then what specs apply?

 

Ah my bad, I thought I read -0.4 on one side and 0.5 on the other. You are correct, cross camber is ok.

It's not so much that the specs don't apply, they're just not optimal for different suspension geometry. My go-to is 0 toe, 0 camber, and as much caster as I can get - which is basically what you have shown on your alignment sheet.

 

Thanks! I was trying to convey that. But you did a much better job than how I would've said it.

 

Sooo....new UCA's are in my unfortunate future huh?

 

You can get the Light Racing adjustable arms for under $400 on a group buy, and they take about an hour per side to install. All in all, not a bad deal.

 

Where do jump in this "group buy"?

 

I don't think there is one going on right now. Seems like they happen fairly often though. Or wait until black friday, headstrong or downsouth usually have pretty killer deals.

 

I got my camburgs at @DSM for $641. About 6 or 7 years ago. I just use tri flow on the uni balls. And I grease the bushings with Lucas red n tacky. I've had to take them apart once to clean the uni ball area.