AZ BS Thread 4²0

Not together. Separate.

 

I used the photobucket-workaround tech we built for TW to restore this guy's thread on here (I'll remove it from here if he requests it)

I guess I've got enough parts gathered, it's time to start a thread for the new buggy. I had a little glitch in custody, so the old Zuk had to be sold to get my son.



Had a little left over, so I ordered the best axle parts in rock crawling from Jesse Haines. He shipped me a pair of Trail Gear housings, 14" Spidertrax rotors, RCV outers and 4 Pistons Willwood calipers. I decided to run the same drivetrain as the last buggy with a little more power.





Parts list includes-
2004 GTP Series III
AW4/300
LP 4.56 Yukon 3rds with Grizzly Lockers
H1 Portal outers/ Trail Gear housings
42" Treps on Procomp Vapor IIs
And a little Zuk sheetmetal


Wanted a little more backspacing, but didn't have the money for forged so I grabbed these.



Sourced a mangled tub for a few bucks



Started on the subframe





Set the drivetrain in to start on crossmembers






Hope to start the A pillar tomorrow, and measure the housings to be cut down.


A couple hours a day...



Some Yukon goodies came in today. A pair of LP 4.56 3rds stuffed with Grizzly lockers.



Same motor as the last one, just upgraded blower and cam. They scoot pretty darn good, Jesse put one in his Ultra4 car several years ago.

My OCD got the best of me and I chopped it 4"



I'm wheeling it at EJS, I'm just sandbaging the pics

I got 8 tubes knocked out before taking a lunch break.




Got the housings cut down, all of my link/shock mounts, and 3 low backs for the new whip yesterday. Guess I need to make some progress on the Cs.



If you look at my first set of pics, you can see the caliper bracket that bolts to the portal, and the rotor hat he makes the studs press through to hold on. Then you use the Spidertrax rotors and supplied bolts with some spacers. Here's a pic from one of his builds.



One more thing knocked off the list. Hope to get the drivetrain mounted this weekend.



Did my best Liquid Iron Industries impersonation today with the engine skid/motor mounts, and got the rear crossmember in too.





The eliminator actually has two bends in it, but I went simple. I shouldn't have an issue with portals and 42s, but I hit the last one. So I figured I'd try something simple to protect it better.

Keeping the hack job theme, I picked up a hack doved hood. I hate welding sheetmetal, so that part is at least already done. Still needs work, but it's a start.




Got the hoops in this morning. Then my arbor adapter stripped on the notchmaster, so I'm done for the day.





Fully welded the underside, put Barnes4wd gussets on each frame outrigger, shortened shock hoops 3.5", and added a few more tubes. "Technically" the motor pulls right out of the top. Gotta drill the flexplate, and drop the motor back in. Then rework the headers a smidgen, and get seats mounted in the front, so I can figure out how long to make the stern.



Permanently mounted drivetrain, swapped Camaro pan, and finished the outer A pillar to shock hoops tie-ins.




The day wasn't a total loss. I got the Jesse Haines Fabrication Portal Cs on and ready to burn in.



The front should be ready for links tomorrow.



Front links are in, and the seats are mounted.



The lowers are completely flat with the chassis for a smooth transition. I can't mount them lower or you couldn't get a bolt in the bracket. This was Jesse's response when asked. They're pretty much exactly where they are on his car. I have about 1-2* pinion change from bump to droop.




Ran out of tube today, and killed my Dewalt grinder.



Cut up the headers to add V bands, tuck them tighter and keep the heat off my legs.



Finally welded the Cs on, and gonna start trimming the Goatbuilt hydro ram mount.



Picked up some used shocks, and UPS was kind enough to brake another Schrader valve.



Got the Goatbuilt ram mount on, and the 2.5 Fox shocks mounted this morning.



Had to check clearances on the Jesse Haines Fabrication portals, and I'm pretty happy.



Approach angle at 108" wheelbase.



18" belly, 24" at the tube, 20" at the diff at bump on 42s.



Had some help in the garage this morning, so I got the rear linked and ready for shocks.




Knocked out the rest of the rear/ top of the cage and the harness bar. Now I need to figure out the X bracing behind the seats.




Grabbed a couple valves for the fuel system plumbing.



Put the X bracing behind the seats, started on the door bars, and tied in the passenger C pillar to the bumper node.



Side profile shot of the laced up rear.





Started on the door/console bars, then took advantage of RuffStuff's father's day sale. Hope to get it tabbed out and start skinning the interior.



Got lucky and had a heads up on psc scratch and dent sale. Also got in the radiator, unfortunately I found out the uppers hit the flipped 3rd when I was measuring for Branik shafts.



Picked up some used Howe reservoirs from Hardline



Brakes came in from Kartek



Fuel cell and starting plumbing



Grabbed some aluminum



Series III from a 2004 Gran Prix GTP



Nothing noticeable but I tinkered for a bit today. Got all the portal gusset bolts drilled and tapped today, fuel cell mount, Brave Motorsports pcm mount tucked away nicely, and welded in some diff fill plugs. Trying to decide between angle iron to mount a basket over the cell later, or just some flat bar across the top of the cell.



Didn't really like leaving the buggy in the open when going on long trips out of state, so I picked up a used 4 month old 24' V-nose enclosed.



Much better aka nothing hits.



Tinkered with some posterboard.



Love the caliper coverage with these things, and they don't look too bad for used. They should help narrow things up a good bit.





Extended front frame rails, mounted winch plate, lower radiator support, brake master and cutting brake, painted Cs and tore portals down for sealing.




Brushed on a little Rustoleum Hammered while the power went out.



Next time I'll pay someone to do this...




Looks like i found a way to run the exhaust around the driveshaft and keep decent angles. Goona snake it around, down and under the bellhousing vs in front of it.



Passanger side exhaust built



Intake finished



Finally got the floors done and can lay out everything for plumbing.



Exhaust is built minus the muffler.




Some 300M Branik goodies



Steering is plumbed minus one hose being too short.



#becauseracecar



RADesigns shifter setup, switch panel and shutoff ready for wires.



Door bars, steeringwheel, rear shocks, rear harness bar and exhaust welded in this morning. Minor plumbing and wiring left and it should move.



Had some friends come over this weekend and knock off the list a little so I could finish moving before the haus closes next Friday. Have to mount the gas pedal and skid plate left, and it'll be ready for the trip in 12 days.

 

@tcBob for president!