To cut or not to cut... wheel studs.

those work good.

 

Got er done!
Before and after. Hacksaw worked great and nice clean cuts. Filed down the ends a lil bit to debur and done.

And I failed to look it up yet but anyone know what to torque the spacers to?

 

Looks good - 90 ft-lbs (same as wheel lugs) with some blue loctite will do the trick.

 

thanks mate. I did read about that and suppose I should use some loctite.

Tundra kit arrives tomorrow. Then we'll see if they clear these used 16's I got. If not then they're getting sent back and will just stick with new oem stuff... At least my wheels should fit better either way since the 1/4" spacers are gone now. At least I'm hoping so and it eliminates my vibes. Eventually when I can afford it, I'll look into getting some shiny new hub centric wheels. Although I think these will fit pretty darn good. There's a slim gap between the hubs and wheels, but with the metal center caps, it's a tight fit against the bore. Not sure if that helps or not. But I guess we'll see tomorrow when I get the wheels back on and see if the vibes go away. Then to find tires for those 16's if they clear. yay.

 

As per the owner of Bora - 70 ft*lb's for 12mm studs, no loctite needed. He also recommended driving 5 miles and checking torque the first time they're installed to make sure everything was installed correctly.

Here's a link to the spec sheet:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/bora-spacers-review-install.216233/#post-4963508

I had emailed him personally when he told me the same information (no loctite, etc.):

From a conversation with the owner of BORA

Me:

"Hello,

I purchased some BORA spacers for my 2008 6 lug Tacoma from someone on Tacomaworld.com. I bought some red loctite and I was wondering what some installation tips might be."

Lenny:

"Tony

We really don't recommend using loctite, no need

I know that a lot of guys do use it, but as long as you torque the open end lug nuts to the proper foot lbs, they won't back off or come loose."

Lenny

--
Lenny Stahl, Jr.

Owner

Motorsport Tech

10 Greg St. Suite 112


Reno, NV 89431

Office 775 351 1000

Cell 775 530 4845
www.motorsport-tech.com "

Me:

"Lenny,

Thank you. I have a torque wrench ready to go. Does this mean that I don't have to check the torque on the open ended lug nuts after 5 miles, 50, or 100 miles? Thank you for the info. I'll be putting them on this week. Take care."

Lenny:

"You should recheck the torque after the first 5 miles to make sure everything was mounted correctly."

 

Hmm, this is interesting to me. Usually bolt torque is based on producing a maximum clamping load for a given size and type of fastener. Clamp load is 75% of the proof load, which is in turn about 90% of the material yield stress. Our wheel lug studs are M12 Grade 10.9, with a yield stress Fy = 940 MPa, therefore stress at clamping load should be about 635 MPa. Tensile stress area for M12 is about 88mm^2, so clamp load is 635 MPa x 88 mm^2 = 56 kN.
Determining a torque value from clamp load is tricky, because the majority of the applied torque actually goes into overcoming friction in the threads, under the bolt head, nut, etc. A lot of the accepted formulas are based in SAE units also. Assuming that the threads are un-lubricated, coefficient of friction will be around 0.2.
The simplest formula is T = KDP = 0.2 x 0.472" x 12,590 lb = 99 ft-lbs after all conversions.
So Toyota's spec of 89 ft-lbs for lug torque is a little less than full clamping load, but as they're meant to be removed and reinstalled multiple times that makes sense. As for the wheel spacers, I consider those semi-permanent and would want close to full clamping load. Using loctite will act as a lubricant, which would give you close to full clamp load at 70 ft-lbs of torque. Installed dry, I think 70 is under-torqued.

 

Did that for 2.5 years, never budged - checked every tire rotation.

 

Just talking through my thought process (not trying to be a dick at all). Why not take full advantage of what the fastener is designed for? Maybe it'd be fine at 65ft-lbs, or 60. Maybe not. But Toyota (presumably) spent some effort in designing the wheel studs for a certain loading, and based their specified lug torque on that design. There's no reason not to use their design for something like wheel spacer installation.
Maybe Bora has a reason I'm not seeing. I have their 1" spacers as well, and they have been great for the past year or so.

 

Just a little bonus update. Tundras clear!! Barely. Ha. And room to spare with the backspacing with the 3/4" spacer. Without it, it grinds the caliper.
Thanks for the help guys.