Single (and Two) Piece Driveshaft = Vibes....BE GONE!!!

What are you talking about? That driveshaft is set up exactly like the driveshaft of most long wheel base 1st generation Tacomas. The slip joint was moved down to the rear differential (where most reside anyway on other trucks). There's nothing wrong with his driveshaft.

 

You are right. I'm deleting that pos pos

 

@1MK Cut his out. Maybe he can comment.

 

Been two weeks with the 4" single piece. I did chop the center section and yes you definitely have to cut it or remove the whole member by drilling out frame rivets on the sides.

I can report, "vibes-b-gone."

 

All of this is so confusing, the more I read the more confused I get.

 

Ok I'm not bragging but just an observation. I've just installed LR-UCA, Icon extended coils, deaver U402 exp pack 3" lift and fox VS20 rear shocks. I was fully expecting to get the dreaded vibes this thread suggests and nothing nada zip zilch. 0-90MPH is smooth as butter. This leads me to believe there must be a magic combination in the suspension build that just works. Rims and tires are TRD Bronze 16" and Treadwright Warden 285x75/R16.

 

Do you have a double cab short bed?

 

I have a DCSB

 

Subscribed because this is now on my to do list

 

Been thinking about the single piece driveshaft for a while .

 

When I first read the original post (along with all the following post) on this thread, it made sense (at the time) on the fact of the vibration issue that has plagued the Tacoma extended cab with a, now, known issue.

This interested me and I started to research and dig more into the comparison of "straight drive shaft" and "OEM drive shaft in two parts" and well after calling several places that specialize in custom drive shaft for all vehicles, cars, trucks, rig's, tractors, etc. and explaining the vibration issue that the Tacoma has I kept getting the same response.

I was told that "yes" you can change the OEM drive shaft to a "straight drive shaft" but that there would still be a considerable amount of "vibration" when driving at various speeds.

I asked for a detailed explanation on this and basically I was told that the main vibration problem with Tacoma's had to do with the rear differential design of the Tacoma along with the drive shaft and possibly other associated components related to the drive shaft and rear differential.

That yes, vibration would decrease to a certain amount by just swapping out the drive shaft only but that vibration would still be present at various speeds due to the rear differential design and the only way to correct it would be to have the entire differential replaced along with the drive shaft due to its age. Was also told that over a period of time (years) that Tacoma owners would start to encounter this nagging vibration problem and that not just Toyota Tacoma's experienced this nagging vibration problem but that other manufactures as well, Ford, GMC, Dodge, Nissan, etc. because of the rear differential design along with the drive shaft.

It appears as though that the vibration problem on Tacoma's does not come down to just one "single thing" causing the problem. It appears that it is a combination of "several things". I've posted links to several post that references this as well as a subject concerning, specifically, this particular annoying problem.

Well that's just my take on this problematic vibration issue that has plagued Tacoma drivers.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-replacing-carrier-bearing.260283/

http://www.tacomahq.com/2645/toyota-tacoma-vibration-issue/

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/i-know-another-bad-vibration-thread.472967/

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/03-tacoma-vibration-issue.485544/#post-15435788

 

@Unchained 5150

 

Without going through all the pages is this available for the DCLB as well??

 

I am sure it is. But, as Joe said, it would probably mean the shaft hanging a bit low.

 

I don't need to worry about that Brother, only go over leaves at most

 

True.

 

Do you know what flange that is that you used for the DC? Part number and company. Is it a custom spline or did it go to the factory spline?

 

So I read through most of this thread..... My previous Taco was a 2005 4x4 TRD Offroad Access Cab... Dakar Leafs, 5100s, OME Coils, leveling spacers, Tom Woods single piece D/S.... The best improvement was the take off from a stop, no more vib...... seemed to accelerate with less hesitation which I attributed to the drive shaft wanting to flail around in the carrier bearing.

I traded the truck in a few years ago and recently was cleaning out the garage and noticed I still have the oem driveshaft.... driveshaft wasn't the original on the truck, I brought that truck into Toyota at 60k miles for it to be warrantied. I only had that d/s on for 10k-15k miles before going to the Tom Woods.......Actually tried to list in classifieds to no avail, something must have changed where now you need 50 posts to list.... didn't used to be like that because I was able to list in classifieds a couple years ago... I understand why they require 50, but I think it is a bit tedious to post misc comments to dilute threads in order to reach 50, and I read much more than I post.... PM me if interested in d/s...

Now I have a 2015 4x4 TRD Sport DCLB with OME 885 coils, leveling Spacers, Dakar leafs +1" spacers, 5100s.....I am wondering if many guys have gone to a single driveshaft on the long beds? Or if it is even possible. Thoughts?

 

If I install a CV single piece DS I am assuming I need to shim the rear axle so that the differential points at the transfer case. I did not see shimming mentioned in this thread or others I have searched. In fact, some have said "just bolt it on." Can somebody please confirm that I need to shim? Has anyone done this and if so how did u figure the degree of the shim? I was just thinking about measuring the rise, and the distance between axle and transfer case and calculating the angle I need.

 

I believe I used 2 degree shims on mine with the two piece OEM shaft modified to use a double cardan joint.