Supercharge 2TR-FE - Tuning questions

U mean like places to get a vacuum from post tb... Pcv valve or brake boost are already there just tap in

 

Yeah, my cogs were already turning lol

 

So those nipples are much larger than the bypass valve’s, so I gotta find a reducer T

 

O'Reilly sells a t that goes from like 1/8" up to like 1/2". It segmented and u just cut off the part thats too small. They are pretty cheap ($6 or so) too and it takes all the guess work out

 

Tell me about it...



I had to upgrade! Haha

 

I wish I could like this a million times sooo sooooo sick

 

Should be going in soon. Just need injectors that work and it'll be in!

 

When are you getting that fancy Block?

 

Im hoping by years end, in time for desert season!

 

I actually considered welding one up. I wanted to use Tooter’s spacer as the base but he stopped making them

 

That's badass, nice work. What did you get the supercharger from? How much did the 4x4 swap cost?

 

Supercharger is from a Mercedes C230.
The 4x4 conversion was a lot more expensive than it had to be because I'm currently in Hawaii, shipping costs are ridiculous here. There are no decent recycle yards to speak of, so I "imported" from the 48. The R155F alone was $1000, but I did choose one with less than 10k miles on it. The FJ case, diff and drive shaft was a package steal at $650 shipped, 50k miles. Rear drive shaft slip joint parts were ~$120 off eBay. Incidentals probably ran another $250, but it was all new from the dealership. It does require a stable of tools. I did it in ~15 hrs, full day.
If I was back in the southeast, at a pick-your-own-part recycler, I could have probably done it for $1000.

 

Tapped in, right below the throttle body. I capped off the bypass valve’s nipple. You can also see in this pick the RTV I added to the supercharger gasket. I believe the flange on the base may be too thin, so it isn’t pulling up tight enough everywhere. This is the source of the noise I was hearing when I let off the gas or in on the clutch. I may end up having to disasemble and welding in a beefier flange. I sure hope not

 

Looks like you used Permatex, and didnt wait long enough for the silicone to tack up before squishing it.

Toyota has their own proprietary gasket maker that is far superior to any product permatex makes.

$21 Toyota Genuine Fluid 00295-00103 Formed-in-Place Oil Pan Gasket - 3 oz. Tube

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000...oyota+fipg&dpPl=1&dpID=31WA2VJcPOL&ref=plSrch


Still gotta let it tack up a bit, and then cure overnight before use

 

Directions said to apply one side, immediately set in place, finger tighten bolts, let sit one hour, then torque. I followed the directions to the tee. We’ll see. That pic is right after I set in place

 

Said to wait 24 hours before returning to service, so there won’t be any updates until Thursday morning

 

This is the stuff, hope it holds up. Seemed to be the best stuff at O’Reilley’s

 

If it seals, awesome. If not, try my method!

 

Vacuum works like a champ! At idle, that thing is sucked all the way up and wide open!
The RTV seems to be holding up, time will tell if it's any good or not.

I really don't know what PSI it's putting out. I guess the next step is to get a boost gauge and run down the road before I invest in any tuning electronics. I've really been eyeing the PLX VAC/Boost with Bluetooth. If I do get a MAP-ECU3 I would need to pay another 150-200 to get the Wi-Fi add-on card. If I end up getting URD modules, then there isn't even an option.