Wheel and Tire "Will this fit/rub" stock, leveled, and lifted info inside (complete with poll)

Hey Tacoma World

Firstly, I used up all the "add poll" options, I know I couldn't cover every option so please select whatever most closely matches your set up.
Side note- for the 1st gens: I couldn't fit the word "trimming" into the poll so left it as "CMC" even though you have to trim rather than the CMC to cut. Imagine it says "trimmed/cut fenders"

*This thread only applies to 6-lug model Tacomas*
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I'm hoping this thread becomes a great resource for new and veteran members. Somewhere to route everyone to see others experiences and learn a about what all these numbers mean.

The first bit of information I'll link over is courtesy of @tcBob

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/largest-tacoma-tire-sizes-on-stock-suspension.67550/

This is supposed to answer your "what's the biggest tire I can fit with no lift" questions.
These sizes are tried and true as a reliable baseline to get people started.

Now to throw a wrench in the gears 255/85-16 or 255/80-17 sized tires are becoming more and more popular. Of course people want to throw these 33" tires on with no lift and there have been mixed results on whether or not they rub. Stock wheels it's looking like it depends on the tire choice, some rub the mud flaps more than others. From what I've read (I don't have this size myself) these do fit on stock wheels with minimal trimming. If you have aftermarket wheels which push the wheel and tire further out you will rub and need to trim your fenders to clear them. Regardless with stock or aftermarket wheels if you'd like to run 255/85-16 or 255/80-17 tires be prepared to trim your fenders! You may not need too, but you may have too. If you don't want to run the risk stick with a 265/75-16 or 265/70-17.

Next up let's talk about these 285 sized tires. Firstly they will NOT fit on stock wheels without wheel spacers. The offset/backspacing is too high and the tire will rub the UCA.
You will need 4.75" of backspacing or less to give you the correct clearance to avoid rubbing the UCA. Most aftermarket wheels will have an option for 4.5" back spacing which is the most common and provides .25" more clearance between the tire and UCA over a 4.75" back spacing wheel.
Now that's rubbing of the UCA, fender rubbing is a different ball game.
The poll listed above has an option for 285 sized tires without rubbing, I am 100% believer that you can't fit a 285 on 2-3" of lift without cutting your fenders at the bare minimum.
There is an option for 285 sized tires and no rubbing. If you see votes in that category please click on the number and it will bring up the users who voted that way. Please either tag them and ask them in this thread or shoot them a PM asking for their specs and some pictures to show there is a combination that clears. I'd love to see it.

Cutting, trimming and the Cab Mount Chop (CMC for short):
*Note- I cut A LOT due to 9" wide wheels with -12mm offset and my spindles which push them out to around a -32mm offset*
*I also had a mean taco lean which made the driver's side rub more*
*Your trimming and cutting will vary dependent on wheel choice and tire size.*

The spot your tire will rub the most regardless of size or positioning is the black inner fender liner. This thin plastic is easy enough to cut with a pocket knife. Once you have your new wheels and tires on turn the wheel, see where the tire hits and trim accordingly.

Depending on your tire size and wheel choice you may need to trim the bottom portion of your actual fender. This may be too difficult for a knife, but a dremel makes quick and clean work of this area.



The pinch weld is a section of metal that sticks out towards your wheel. The pinch weld is nicely tucked away and hidden behind the inner fender liner.
If you have a large and heavy enough sledge hammer take all that hate from where this stupid pinch weld cut the side lugs on your new tires and beat the snot out of it. Hit it and keep hitting it until it's been folded flat. Apply some paint to prevent rust. Crack a cold beverage and enjoy a job well done.
Tool requirement to fix this:
BFH
Big guns (or a dremel)



The infamous Cab Mount Chop:
*First know the guy who did mine had never done one before. Nor had I seen pictures so we just kind of went for it. There are shops and installers out there who can do a much cleaner job, granted this one looks decent and does the job.*
CMC location:
Look at the back of the wheel well at the other culprit to chopping up your beautiful new side lugs. This is what will be cut and then plated in with new metal. It provides more clearance for your beefy new tires to turn without catching on anything.
This does require welding, so tackle it at your own risk or recruit a professional.

Stock cab mount -




Chopped cab mount -


And just for sport this is the cab mount -



Ahhhh beautiful clearance -



Don't fear the cutting and trimming, your IG posts will get more likes with your cool big tires and now you can explore outside the mall without fear of rubbing. Unless your head is in the wheel well you won't really see any of your cutting.


And from a distance you can't see a thing



Now let's bring up wheels:
All 6 lug model Tacomas use a 6x5.5 / 6x139.7 bolt pattern.
5.5" = 139.7mm so it's the same pattern, some companies list it in inches, others in millimeters.
Our hub diameter is 106.1mm

Wheels from say a GM or a Nissan with the same bolt pattern may fit if they're aftermarket but factory wheels from these brands will not fit due to them having a smaller hub bore. Fortunately for us most companies make their wheels with a 6x5.5 bolt pattern to either a 106.1mm or 108mm center bore so they fit a wider ranger of vehicles. If they're 108mm for the center bore you may need a hub centering ring to bring that center hole size down to the correct 106.1mm size.
Hub centering rings -


Also aftermarket wheels require aftermarket lug nuts. Our size is M12 x 1.5
The factory lug nuts use a flat seating surface, and aftermarket wheels require a 60 degree tapered cone seat which is why you need a new set. A majority of wheels you will also yield a benefit going with an Extended Thread or ET style lug nut which reaches deeper into the wheel to engage more threads on the stud.

As for factory wheel specs, here is what is listed per 1st gen Tacomas -


2nd gen Tacomas -


3rd gen Tacomas -



Now when selecting the correct aftermarket wheel it's important to make sure you're familiar with how the wheel will fit to the truck and your tires.

First thing you need to do is check the allowable specs of your tire.
Let's start with some KO2's bro
Let's say you went up to a 265/70-17 because you wanted something a little bigger than stock, your truck is stock height and you found these sweet 17" x 9" wheels.
Quick check to tirerack shows us that rim width range is 7" to 8.5" wide.

You could still use this, people stretch tires, but you run the risk of your tire popping off the bead because your wheel is too wide for the tire.
However there's a light at the end of the tunnel so you can use those cool 9" wide wheels you like so much -
These General Grabber AT2 tires come in a "P" or "Standard load rating" and thus have a more flexible sidewall.
These tires are the same size, but will mount up to a 9" wide wheel.


The same applies to all size wheels and all tires. Do yourself the service of spending an extra minute or two to check the allowable rim width of your tires to make sure you won't run into a problem when you bring you bad ass new wheels to the shop and they turn you away saying it won't work.


Fast forward: You picked out your tires, you know what size wheels they will fit and it's on to selecting your new wheels.

"What in the is offset and backspacing?!"






Back spacing and offset are a measurement of the wheel.
0mm of offset for example means that the hub mounting location is dead center on the wheel.
To help better understand this while making it more confusing at the same time:
An 8" wide wheel with 0mm of offset will have 4.5" of back spacing.
A 9" wide wheel with 0mm off offset will have 5.0" of back spacing.

"What that doesn't add up, if it mounts in the middle it should be half of 8 inches? That's 4 inches of backspacing. Who is this idiot!"

Wheel widths are measured on the inside lip where the tire beads, so an 8" wide wheel is actually 9" wide outside to outside. The backspacing measurement is measured from the outside edge of the wheel and half of 9" is 4.5"
This also means a 9" wide wheel is 10" wide overall hence a 0mm offset will yield 5.0" of backspacing. You lower the offset down to -12mm to move the hub mounting location half an inch closer to the back of the wheel and voila you have 4.5" of backspacing on a 9" wide wheel (which is 10" outside to outside).

Something to consider while selecting your wheels is that the wider the wheel and the further it sticks out, the more rubbing you will have.

Most popular wheel fitment options:
16" x 8" 0mm offset 4.5" back spacing
16" x 8" -12mm offset 4.0" back spacing
16" x 8" -25mm offset 3.5" back spacing

17" x 8" 0mm offset 4.5" back spacing

17" x 8.5" 0mm offset 4.75" back spacing
17" x 8.5" -6mm offset 4.5" back spacing

17" x 9" -12mm offset 4.5" back spacing
17" x 9" -38mm offset 3.5" back spacing


I hope after reading this thread you've learned something and feel more comfortable and confident in your search for wheels and tires. It's all numbers, just need that *click* moment to where it all starts to make sense.

If it wasn't apparent, I littered this with sarcasm to make the read more enjoyable. KO2s are excellent tires, and my pictures are for the likes

Please post if I made an error, new info comes up, to ask questions, or share your own experiences. I apologize for my dirty fenders and rough cuts to the fender well. I'd happily update this thread with cleaner and better pictures, just send them my way!

- Mike


*This isn't the end all be all bible of rules. Use this information to further your research to make an educated decision on your own. I will not be held responsible if you take this information and something doesn't go as planned.*

 

*reserved for better examples of fender cutting and trimming*
Please reply with pictures of YOUR fenders cut/trimmed and your wheel and tire specs. I'll update this post in an attempt to cover as many sizes, options and gens as possible.

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@FishingInSand


@FJ to Taco

 

*reserved for side profile pictures*
Please reply with side profile pictures complete with wheel and tire specs.
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Great thread Mike!

 

Thanks Jay! I know there will still be the daily "will this fit" thread, but hopefully this gains some traction and reduces them at least a bit.

 

A good rule of thumb is you can't have a tire width more than 10.5 inches or it will rub somewhere. Lol

 

No rub on body mount. Trimmed some plastic.

285/70/17 GY Duratracs on 17x9 Level 8 Bully Pro w/ -12 offset. King 2.5 extended travel, 700# springs, Icon billet UCAs up front.

 

TLDR

 

Excellent Mike.

 

So much reading.

 

Rubbing is racing

 

This is going to be a new sticky I'm sure....

 

It's too bad people will be too lazy to look for it on their own before asking yet another "will it fit" thread

 

I guess mine doesn't really count but if you have a 6in DB lift, 17x9 Fuel Trophy's 4.5" backspacing, with lots of trimming and a CMC you can run 35's. I will be putting 37's on soon also.

 

Damn Mike, bored at work today?

Nice thread btw. I'm way too lazy to put together something like this.

 

Trying to look busy is hard work...

 

... So much knowledge
Good job Mike

 

This is perfect and just what we need added to this thread. Thank you!

Hahaha yeah probablt.

Those dirty fives though!

Fits the thread though! I figured most of the questions are most relevant to 2-3" lifts, glad there's some 6" in here as well

Haha! Dude it took me two days to write this because it was busy at work

It is man. You have to switch over from TW to some old spreadsheet that looks like current work

Thank you!

 

I may have missed it, but the type of tire also comes into play. Larger lugs/more squared up profile on a smaller tire can cause more rubbing than a larger, more rounded tire (i.e. - bogger vs. highway).

Great post, lots of condensed info to answer many a question!