UPDATE! Long!!! : HELP!!!! STRANDED!!! 2010 Won't Start after stopping for Gas!!!

Actually I've heard something like this. its called vaporlock. it was a problem back in the day and still on some cars now. its when for one reason or another, gas doesnt get sucked into the engine like it should, just vapors. then engine will run fine until it shuts off, but the vapors left in wont be able to start the car. its pretty common in nascar if a car runs out of gas mid-drive. doing a push start or adding ether to the gas usually solves it.

Heres where I heard of it:
http://www.basicjokes.com/djoke.php?id=260

 

sorry to sort of thread jack..what exactly is under the tab next to the shifter? i'm scared to touch it, don't want my taco to get angry and drive me into a wall

 

It is the shift lock release. if your shift lever is stuck for whatever reason just pick that little square cap off. Then push the button under there. you should then be able to move the shift lever thru all the gears.

 

"Winter" fuel in warm weather can cause this. I would try a different gas station.

 

It's just amazing...The truck had only 6700 miles when this happened yesterday and again today. I don't expect the truck to be a car, perfect, or perform supernatural acts, but I do expect it to start when I turn the key. The battery is fine, the truck just would not turn over. No click, no sound, nothing.......

 

I'd encourage anyone concerned to read the updated first post.

 

I believe they do, and I am very glad you found them when you really needed them. Had a similar situation happen to a friend while we were out of town. The local dealership bent over backwards to get us fixed and on our way. All he was getting was a one time fix, no repeat customer. They, including the tow truck operator, treated us like gold!! We were just outside of Detroit. Good to hear they cared, and I hope you get satisfaction and your problem resolved.

 

Glad you made it home... sounds like a great dealer to have service done at.

 

Glad you found people that wanted to try even if they could not give you an answer right off the bat. Your description sounds like a no crank, not an immobilizer issue. (Same effect, not driving, just a different reason) There are only two main circuits in play there. The neutral safety side and the ignition key output to the starter. One circuit through the neutral/park switch that activates a relay to allow the other output from the other side of the ignition switch to get to the starter. A couple of test meters or two hookups on a graphing meter should show which side is falling down. Then it is just chasing it back up stream. It can be found and fixed. It could be as simple as a loose connection. Best wishes on the repair.

 

i came across this thread about a hour after you first posted and have been watching for updates. I'm VERY impressed with the way they dealership guys handled the situation, and the way they treated you and your family. I wish we had those types of people around me. Glad to hear at least things for now are ok.

 

Please let us know what you find as well. Most of us are prepared for anything but not something like this.

 

Glad you and your family got home safe. If this keeps up dude... I would think they would have to give you a new one.. this one sounds like a lemon.

 

The challenge with a "lemon law" is that it actually has to be fixed I think. Since the dealerships mark the ticket "No problem found." no repair is done, thus no action can be recorded as a problem that has been supposedly corrected multiple times. I'm not sure where this leaves me. This ordeal has put a strain on a already delicate financial situation. I'm just floating through the sky right now wondering what to do.

 

This is happened twice to me on my 2010. I thought little of it and on my first oil change I asked the dealer to look at it. They could not replicate the issue so no dice. It happened twice pretty close together and now has not happened in at least 3 months. I figure all is well, but this thread makes me worry. Taking a 14hr trip to Nags Head this summer. Here's to hoping this does not happen again, and wishing you the OP the best resolution.

You are not alone though. Freaking weird.

 

this is going to sound like a PIA, but take video EACH time you start the truck. when it doesnt start, just get it on video and show the dealership. Let the tech take it home for a week, if it happens that often, he'll have it happen to him. Make sure you get the milage in and out and the time its there is ADDED to your warranty. i delt with the same issue with my 92 GMC and then again on my 06 GMC Canyon (different issues but still JUNK vehicles). if you get it on video, and it does it again after they fix it, return it...then the third time LEMON LAW IT. They MAY deduct about .25/mile in value though. it doesnt have to be fixed, just NOT fixed 3 times and the delaership has to "find" a problem and repeat it 3 times. sounds like an ECM issue to me, or a BCM....somthin with the key/switch

 

I called Toyota and made a complaint. Not sure it will do anything, but I also filed a compliant with the NHTSA. If the failure occurs while driving, I will have a whole new set of problems to deal with. I just refuse to drive my family any further with this vehicle, now that I am home and have done more research.

Again, I just don't know that I'm going to fight this battle. I need a reliable vehicle and at this point I can no longer say that about my 2010 Tacoma with only 7K miles on it now.........I call that a FAIL!!! Toyota.

 

Good to see you got home OK. I would have called to complain to some one too about my problem. Did you give the dealer props to toyota for what sounds like an awesome attempt at getting you fixed up? It sounds like they went above and beyond what 9999 out of 10000 other dealers would have done. Anyway, I hope it all works out well for you with a diagnosis of the problem and a permanent fix.

 

This probably doesn't help and is quite a stretch, but i remember changing out my headunit once and i tried to start the truck without the "hazard light computer/ immobilizer indicator/air bag computer" thingy just above the AC controls and the engine just flat out failed to start. No cranking at all, just silence. Perhaps this module on your truck went dead or some how got disconnected? Im no car expert so i really dont know if this really helps you. You dont happen to have a remote start alarm system that could potentially interfere with the immobilizer in a glitchy do you?

 

its too bad that the problem can't be pinpointed but I'm sure everyone would agree that if it was a common occurance Toyota would not have the good reputation they have. (pre- government smear campaign)

It is refreshing to hear that dealerships still offer "service" and support.

I had a similar occurance with my fathers newer style GTO. I would get in, turn the key and it would start but then immediately die.
we never pinpointed the cause but we suspect that bad fuel was the culprit because it was sitting for so long.

 

The crazy thing is this, up until the return trip home, nothing like this ever happened. The out of the blue it did what it did.

I have been driving the truck daily, only 40 miles or so one way, then stopping at office, won't get into truck until lunch time. Everything seemed to be OK. Had it experienced any crazy stuff I would have never took it on a 1100 mile trip.

I just downgraded it to a local usage only vehicle..that's the same status my street/strip Mustang used to have. Over 40 miles, I'd find another ride. Problem is that the Mustang was a street/strip racer and not my everyday ride.

And yes, when I called Toyota, I made sure to name the dealership by name, state, location, and include every person's name that I encountered.