Official Tennessee Thread

Oh. My goddamn rear pinion seal was leaking ya'll. (I have once seen a Dodge Nitro that let its rear pinion seal leak go long enough it emptied the pumpkin of fluid, got so hot it sheared the head off the pinion gear. Only thing left was massive carbon deposits. Pinion head, that was sitting in the bottom of the pumpkin was almost completely black from being covered in carbon residue)

Discovered it last weekend. Thing was a little more than 2 qts low.

Changed out the pinion seal Tuesday evening. All seems good. Not more puddles under the truck the past 2 days.

I tried to get Levi to come change it out for me and I could be lazy and watch. But NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO And then, AND THEN, he goes and is trying to spend MY money on used Camburg UCAs. That guy I tellya. Stay away. Love ya Levi!

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/used-after-market-control-arms.512834/

 

Yeaaaaaaaahhhhh. I agree with .1867 % of what you just said. Most of it was garbage. You can make an argument that on a daily street driven car, a high performance rotor has no advantage over a traditional solid rotor but you're ignorant to say a solid rotor is equal to or better then a cross drilled, slotted, cross slotted, dimpled or carbon ceramic rotor in any situation where you use it constantly.

You're wrong, not all rotors are "slotted". There are solid rotors. Then there are normal slotted rotors in which the slots are cut straight, directional slotted rotors in which the slots are all curved and help pull air into the rotor and 2 piece rotors in which slots are depicted upon how the two pieces are bolted together.

You're right about having more material but a larger rotor will outperform a thicker rotor. More surface area equates into longer time to heat soak and less time for heat dissipation. More importantly in means more surface to grab onto meaning more friction meaning better stopping. Thicker metal would actually impede faster heat dissipation and will only help with heat soak through the thickness of the metal, not the surface, which is what matters most.

Cross drilled rotors absolutely help with heat dissipation. So do slotted but with the added benefit of groves to excavate dirt, brake dust and water.

You're right to say more metal will help you stop faster but that's only 1 part of the equation. If you were to take a static test of 1 run of 60-0 mph with 1 car having solid faced rotors and 1 car having cross drilled or slotted rotors with all other variables being equal then I could absolutely see the solid rotor stopping faster. But what's the point of that test? No one cares how fast your car can stop once with the brakes starting out completely cool. Longevity is what you need.

An internally slotted rotor will dissipate heat faster then a solid rotor when heat cycled. A directional internally slotted rotor will dissipate heat even faster. A cross-drilled, slotted and dimpled rotor will dissipate heat even faster. There are no gimmicks to this. There is science backing this. You think you're smarter then world renound race teams? You think Honda, Ferrari, Porche, etc... put big ass cross drilled, crazy slotted rotors on their race cars for looks alone? What tha fuck did you smoke before you wrote that?

Less material will envoke faster heat soak. Less material will also dissipate that heat faster. Internally directional slotted cooling veins will suck air into that rotor and cool the metal faster thus dissipating heat faster. Holes in the rotor will dissipate heat faster. Slots in the rotor will excavate debris and heat gases making that rotor cool off faster and keeping the surface clean. Carbon ceramic material of the rotor itself will grip better, heat soak less and dissipate heat faster. These are all FACTS, not opinions.

Please, by all means, prove me wrong with "science."

Your turn .....

 

I think @tacotim448 forgot about all the sweet video from AOP he promised us.

 

You better watch it.

Might get sniped...

 

Happy birthday @Red Demon

 

I’ve been in Colorado the last week. I’m back now and will put something together this weekend.

 

@rngr I seen that you trout fish the caney fork next to TTU. You ever come to knoxville to fish the clinch?

 

Happy birthday @Red Demon

 

Nice! That looks awesome.

I'm on the caney regularly. Sometimes I take a pole. Occasionally I remember to use it. Rarely I catch A fish. I ALWAYS catch a buzz.

But no, not a fisherman. Just there for funsies.

 

The other important thing to keep in mind relating to this is gasses. When a brake pad is applied to the rotor, extreme rotational energy is converted into heat via friction. This sudden change in temperature causes sublimation. These gasses create a cushion between the pad and rotor, which means less friction and less stopping power. With slots, dimples, and holes, the gasses have somewhere to dissipate which actually gives you better surface contact than a solid faced rotor would.
Also, as Gideon mentioned, by slotting, dimpling, or drilling rotors, you also increase surface area which will greatly help with cooling. If you have two rotors of equal diameter and one is slotted, dimpled, or drilled, then that one will cool faster due to the greater surface area.

 

Yes.

 

Dropped the truck off for a game of Firestone alignment roulette.

 

In all seriousness though, I drive my truck on the street and occasionally off-road. I'd say that's true of most everyone here. A heavy truck with drum brakes in the rear needs all the help it can get, especially if you ever drive in mountains. On my road trip this summer I experienced quite a bit of brake fade in several places. Better brakes will always be better brakes, no matter what you're doing.

 

Best of luck.

 

Is that how that works?

 

This guy gets it.

 

Well let me know when you wanna catch some fish. I typically wade anything I can walk in to. The caney have some studs in there.

 

you're welcome

 

LOL
Good luck! I'm sitting at 1 in 4 good alignments between 3 different stores.

PS. I don't want to jinx it but... the 3rd store was the charm.