Alignment, Caster, Clearance, and Driving Report with Light Racing UCAs

I've read this entire thing and it's amazing. So for myself, I already have a RC leveling kit, with 285/70/17 and I don't notice much rubbing if any. I'm installing a toytec/bilstein 3inch lift and LR UCA's. The back and forth of the D vs E setting is killing me. For my set up, I'm understanding the E setting will work the best? I'd like little to no rubbing.

 

The front is lifted 2.5 with 5100s and 620 Eibach coils.

 

Added 884's with 5100's in front and 1 inch toytec block with 5100's in the back.UCA's are set on D, 22 1/2" from center hub to fender with 265/75/16 Nitto trail grapplers.Had to remove mud flaps in front. Seems to drive and handle good but with such a big change to M/T tires and there weight over stock tires along with shitty Wisconsin roads makes it hard to tell.Anyone's feedback on these numbers that understands alignment better than me would be great.

 

I think most want caster closer to 3.0. Others could chime in.

 

Yea I like the 3 caster and zero camber and toe.

 

Yep tell them you don't care about the numbers being in the red. You want it to be 3 or over 3 degrees. That's what I have to do every time I go. Mine feels twitchy and wants to follow the road if they go by factory specs

 

Thanks guys,I was thinking they should have kept it at 2.9 like it was when they started. Probably why the mud flaps had to come off with that size tire.Toe and camber should be exactly zero tho??

 

I run the same size tire and did not have to remove my mud flap after or before I did my lift.

 

What's your caster at with the new uca's?

 

I believe i am set at 2.8 on both sides. One side is just shy of 2.8. Prior to my last alignment I only had 2.

 

Thanks

 

Unfortunately the caster drops with the camber. Your camber was originally too high so when they lowered it, they also lowered the caster. That's likely as good as it gets for your setup without adding more camber.

EDIT: Since you have SPC upper arms they could have deducted camber at the UCA. They most likely didn't know or care that the UCA is adjustable.

 

^^^ Also this. Inform them that you are aware 3° Caster is not "in spec" and you're ok with it.

 

Thanks,so I think I'll have them go back to the original settings and just adjust camber with the top slide adjustment.Not sure if this will help with my mud flap clearance or if I need to change from D to E setting like @bjmoose did?

 

Reading thru this thread helped me a ton when getting my alignment done. After finally sacking up, I got a "big boy" alignment as opposed to firestone where they put weight in the seat, all that jazz. My rear thrust angle was nearly 0.6 degrees, but toe was good so I knew the rear axle was crooked. My current alignment had me at 3 degrees caster already, but 2 of that was from the UCA so i still rubbed my back fender. Also, I went ahead and had them do their own recommended camber and toe settings for tire wear, which they'll look at every 4000 miles and adjust accordingly. I know everyone recommends 3, 0, 0.

Modifications: SPC UCA at the recommended 2 degree setting, 6112s set at 5/4, ome dakar light duty with aal, and 255s.



Before measurements:

Camber: -.11 -.42
Caster: 3.2 3.3
Toe: mm to degree math
Rear axle thrust angle: 0.58 degrees!

After measurements:
Camber: -.32 -.42
Caster: 4.1 4.15
Toe: more math
Rear axle thrust angle: 0.00 degrees

Pretty happy with how it drives so far on the way home. The 4 degrees makes it feel more like a car as far as steering goes. I would recommend trying the 1 degree setting, and trying to get even more than 2 degrees caster from the LCA!

 

So I haven't bought UCA's to go with my coilovers yet, but if I understand right the camber on the LCA should be adjusted to provide as much clearance as they can then the UCA is adjusted to get correct numbers. I read original post, but suspension is confusing when you're new to it.

 

You want as much positive caster as you can get out of the lower control arm cams to clear your tires against your inner fender and cab mounts. shoot for 0 toe, and the lowest camber value they can do without reducing the caster they already achieved. Caster and camber are dependent on each other. How big is your lift in the front? Running 33s?

 

Just 32's right now. 265/75r16. They're toyos which are known to be bigger, but I'm still on stock as I haven't install even the coilovers yet

 

SO in theory as you lift, you loose caster? Mine is at 3.8 3.5 and steering is a bit stiff.. Better go another inch up.

 

Figured I would put this here since it's about LR UCA's.

I just got off the phone with SPC and found out my UCA that snapped is a known issue with their first gen design.(it has metal washers on each side of the bushing)

He said they had issued a recall for the old design due to the washers seizing the bushing so it wouldn't turn causing the metal collar to try to turn and end up cracking. Which actually probably explains the bushing finish in the picture..looks like it has been scraped against.

Overall, very satisfied with the result. They are sending me a set of their next gen UCA's which he only had 9 sets to give out to customers.(lucky timing on my part) New design has some type of flex joint and dumps the poly bushings.