CLOSED - The Retrofit Source GB

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For those that did the retro fit. How do you adjust the projector? Do I want to make sure the projector is leveled first? Once leveled, do I ad just up/down and left/right by adjusting the adjuster on the headlights (used for OEM reflector)?

 

I've had 2 Moromoto 35w ballasts crap out on me so far. I'm thinking of purchasing OEM Denso ballasts.

 

Thank you Colton for the reply, greatly appreciated!

 

Has anyone ordered a retrokit from TRS recently. I don't see a "comments" section on the order for the group discount.

 

You do not have to put comment anymore

 

Alright thanks. Kit ordered. Here goes nothing!

 

Anyone running into the cutoffs sticking on the 4.0 Mini D2s projectors?

I noticed my passenger side cutoff will randomly stick leaving the high beam on. Kinda annoying. I didnt notice it sticking until I was having an issue with the passenger side ballast ground.

Ive done some research and seems the older versions stick and can be filed/polished to correct this. Does this go for the 4.0s as well?

Or could the bad ground cause this issue?

The ballast is grounded to an OEM ground point and Ive since cleaned it and got the ballast grounded/working again but was wondering if its only a so so ground, itll make the light work but not the cutoff. I doubt it would but who knows...

 

I didn't run any high beams because of this issue, it's somewhat common. I believe I saw that if you take the bulb out and carefully use something to push on the cutoff shield it might loosen itself.

 

They suggest to test the hi/Lo function something like 50 times.. I wonder if that helps loosen things/break them in?

 

It does but I wasn't chancing it. My halo wouldn't fit around the connector for the high beams. So with all the talk about them sticking I said screw it and didn't set up the high beams haha but yeah see if you can take a small/long screwdriver and very carefully tap on it from the back where the bulb goes.

 

My hi beams got stuck when I first completed the retrofit with the last version of the projectors. I clicked the high beams on and off a whole bunch of times and it freed it. I cycled it on and off a bunch more times and it hasn't stuck ever since.

 

Here's some shots of the 3.0 d2s projectors with 35w OEM Denso ballasts and Osram Nightbreaker 4300k bulbs.

 

Mine have been good up until this point. I built em over a year ago with no issues.

So the cutoff has been cycled well over 5000+ times Id imagine at this point. This just started a week or so ago.

If you flick the high beams a few times, the cut off comes lose. I'm just not a fan of flashing on coming traffic with my highbeams unless it's necessary. I plan to go straight to the source and contact TRS to see what they say before opening them back up. Hopefully it's something simple. If not, this'll gimme my excuse to add a set of demon eyes and change the color of the headlight housing.

In the meantime, I'm gonna to redo the ground and hope it fixes it.

 

I had one of the first versions that had a lot of sticking issues, a quick sand down and that fixed them, prior to opening them back up I used a small wood skewer to stick through the back after removing the bulb and it would drop the shield down. Wonder if dirt or something got inside the plunger?

 

Without reading back through 5700+ posts, can somebody tell me if there's a reason I wouldn't want to go with the Morimoto Bi-Xenon Stage IV universal kit over the Mini D2S Stage III? I see one says Easy install and the other says advanced. What exactly does that mean from the standpoint of building a set of retrofits for our trucks?

 

As far as install goes it will be the same, I believe before the 4.0s came out the Stage IV came with FXRs, could be wrong on that but its the same projector in both stages. Stage IV just comes with different ballasts and bulbs. Also the discount code use to only work for certain kits

 

Sorry if this has already been answered, but couldn't find anything.

I see a lot of Apollo 1.0 shrouds with Halos on the front. I just got mine (with 90mm RGB Halos from TRS, as advised on their site), however, I'm wondering how people have attached them to the shrouds with the wires in the way? I'm about to cut the shroud, but wanted to ask first in case anyone has advice. Here's a pic for reference: