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Wiring up CaliRaised LED's w/ OEM Switch

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by Big Dustin, Oct 9, 2017.

  1. Oct 9, 2017 at 3:20 PM
    #1
    Big Dustin

    Big Dustin [OP] Well-Known Member

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    5100's all around, OME 887 with 1/4" spacer, icon 3 leaf aal. 255/75/17 BFG KM's on 4runner pro's. Rigid led pods. Debadged and tinted.
    Hello everybody. I have seen many posts about utilizing the Caliraised wiring harness and mictuning switches. Today, I installed mine, and had the same issues as everyone else has experienced.

    I wanted to share a few key findings, that may help others diagnose issues during their installs.

    1. The relay was wired completely wrong. The ground and switch terminals were backwards. Also, the in/out terminals were backwards. This, of course was an easy fix, remove the terminals and slide them into the correct locations. But, it was a major inconvenience.

    2. I used an add a circuit so my lights would only come with my headlights. As others have stated, the tail fuse inside of the cab is a great option. I got everything connected to find that the led lights would turn on anytime. Didn't matter if my headlights were on or not. I finally realized the issue here. The Caliraised wiring harness has the blue (+12v) wire tied into terminal 30 on the relay. That means the blue wire is powered off of the battery 24/7. This not only causes the lights to turn on at any time, it also makes the mictuning switch lights stay on constantly, instead of when the headlights are on like most of us would like. Simple fix: Snipped the blue wire and taped it up.

    So, this is how I wired my switch:

    Green wire- Tied into the add a circuit, powered by the tail fuse
    Red 1 - White wire on CaliRaised harness (terminal 86 on the relay)
    Red 2 - Tied into the same add a circuit with the green wire
    Black - Black wire on Caliraised harness

    Utilizing this method, allows the switch to light up ONLY when it can turn the lights on. In my case when my tail lights are illuminated (parking lights, or headlights). The secondary light (when the switch is on) functions as it should. Of course, you can pick a fuse location that is keyed so your lights can be on once the ignition is turned on, whatever your needs may be.

    Hopefully my rambling makes sense. Let me know if any of you have questions, or cant make sense of my frustration laced typing.

    MicTuning Diagram.jpg
    Relay Diagram.jpg
     
    ezatnova, TNTaco19, tall_paul and 2 others like this.
  2. Oct 17, 2017 at 5:57 PM
    #2
    Friedtacolover

    Friedtacolover Well-Known Member

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    my build tread: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/socal-no-shame-poser-build.513084/

    Can you elaborate a little bit further for me on add a fuse. In my 2015 the fuses were just under stearing wheel but where is the tailamp fuse at and what fuse -# is it on 3rd gen. Thanks man!

    Will also be checking manual when i get home
     
  3. Oct 17, 2017 at 8:20 PM
    #3
    Big Dustin

    Big Dustin [OP] Well-Known Member

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    5100's all around, OME 887 with 1/4" spacer, icon 3 leaf aal. 255/75/17 BFG KM's on 4runner pro's. Rigid led pods. Debadged and tinted.
    I'll have to see what fuse number it is when I can get to the truck. The add a fuse(add a circuit) just uses one of the fuse locations under the steering wheel. It allows the factory fuse to do it job, but adds a second fuse with a hot wire for your accessory. Using the tail fuse (labeled as tail lamp, I believe) only puts power to the accessory when you tail lights are illuminated. So, I can kick the lights on with parking lights, headlights, or brights.
     
  4. Oct 19, 2017 at 10:22 AM
    #4
    Big Dustin

    Big Dustin [OP] Well-Known Member

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    5100's all around, OME 887 with 1/4" spacer, icon 3 leaf aal. 255/75/17 BFG KM's on 4runner pro's. Rigid led pods. Debadged and tinted.
    Here's a couple of photos. Sorry for the blurriness of the fuse box photo. The location I utilized is second from the firewall. You can see it's labeled as tail on the cover.

    IMG_20171019_103839771.jpg
    IMG_20171019_103753891.jpg
     
  5. Oct 19, 2017 at 12:35 PM
    #5
    Friedtacolover

    Friedtacolover Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for taking the time to do that! Ill be hooking up my remote wire soon so I dont accidentaly kill battery. Not sure how we could leave these bright ass leds on anyway but ya never know
     
  6. Nov 28, 2017 at 10:43 PM
    #6
    BetaTaco

    BetaTaco Built like a steakhouse, handles like a Bistro.

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    same shit as everyone else
    Had a similar problem with my wiring harness from CaliRaisedLED. The red wire going to the light bar, and the red and blue wire going to the positive battery terminal were backwards on the relay. I tried to pull them out and swap them but they seemed permanently installed. Broke out the soldering iron and cut, stripped, swapped and spliced the wires that way. still nothing. I did some reading and apparently relays make a clicking sound when activated. I wasn't getting any clicking. Long story short I got fed up with trouble shooting this damn thing because I'm a technician and I deal with stuff like this all day at work so I politely contacted Blake at CaliRaised via email and he had a new harness shipped from CA to VA in two days. Works now. I just wired up the OEM style switch exactly like in their YouTube video. That's exactly how I want it.
     
    cjcamp90 and Big Dustin[OP] like this.
  7. Dec 29, 2017 at 11:25 AM
    #7
    Big Dustin

    Big Dustin [OP] Well-Known Member

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    5100's all around, OME 887 with 1/4" spacer, icon 3 leaf aal. 255/75/17 BFG KM's on 4runner pro's. Rigid led pods. Debadged and tinted.
  8. Jan 1, 2018 at 2:07 PM
    #8
    slamson00

    slamson00 Well-Known Member

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    Hello. I am trying to do this wiring setup as well. I bought a tap a fuse off Amazon that came with a 5 amp fuse but the tap a fuse I bought does not fit into the 7.5 amp tail light spot in the fuse box, nor does the stock 7.5 amp Tacoma fuse won’t fit into the tap a fuse I bought.

    Is there any way someone can link me to the correct size tap fuse to buy for the 2016 Tacoma? This is getting beyond frustrating. Thanks in advance for any help given.
     
  9. Jan 1, 2018 at 3:50 PM
    #9
    Big Dustin

    Big Dustin [OP] Well-Known Member

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    5100's all around, OME 887 with 1/4" spacer, icon 3 leaf aal. 255/75/17 BFG KM's on 4runner pro's. Rigid led pods. Debadged and tinted.
    This is what I bought. They work with in the cab, and under the hood. The truck uses the low profile style, so this kit is nice because it comes with mini fuses since the stock ones don't fit in the add a fuse.

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G8HUTCW?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
     
    tall_paul and slamson00[QUOTED] like this.
  10. Jan 1, 2018 at 6:38 PM
    #10
    slamson00

    slamson00 Well-Known Member

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  11. Jan 1, 2018 at 7:10 PM
    #11
    Big Dustin

    Big Dustin [OP] Well-Known Member

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    5100's all around, OME 887 with 1/4" spacer, icon 3 leaf aal. 255/75/17 BFG KM's on 4runner pro's. Rigid led pods. Debadged and tinted.
    You're welcome, glad to help!
     
  12. Jan 2, 2018 at 6:10 AM
    #12
    cjcamp90

    cjcamp90 Member

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  13. Jan 2, 2018 at 5:28 PM
    #13
    Big Dustin

    Big Dustin [OP] Well-Known Member

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    It depends on how you're wiring it up. If you are using the wiring harness that comes with the light, then you don't need anything else.

    If you want to use a different switch, or control when your light comes on, then you can use one of the fuse taps. For a signal wire, 5 amp is more than enough, as there is basically no draw to switch a relay.
     
  14. Jan 3, 2018 at 10:37 AM
    #14
    cjcamp90

    cjcamp90 Member

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    Thanks Dustin.


     
  15. Jan 12, 2018 at 1:55 AM
    #15
    cruxx

    cruxx Well-Known Member

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    Sorry to join conversation late, so you cant put cover back on with the add a fuse circuit? Any other options? Isnt there a fusebox under hood?
     
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2018
  16. Jan 12, 2018 at 4:37 AM
    #16
    Big Dustin

    Big Dustin [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Correct. @mesojdm makes an extended fuse box cover, which solves that issue.

    There is a fuse box under the hood, but the lid sits in a channel, so passing wires through it is very tough. I have one installed under the hood, and managed to get the lid back on, it just takes some work.
     
  17. Jan 12, 2018 at 9:59 AM
    #17
    slamson00

    slamson00 Well-Known Member

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    Yeah I was wondering if there was an extended fuse box cover out there that can be purchased to seal the fuses back up? How does one go about buying one?
     
  18. Jan 12, 2018 at 10:18 AM
    #18
    Big Dustin

    Big Dustin [OP] Well-Known Member

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    5100's all around, OME 887 with 1/4" spacer, icon 3 leaf aal. 255/75/17 BFG KM's on 4runner pro's. Rigid led pods. Debadged and tinted.
    slamson00[QUOTED] likes this.
  19. Jan 12, 2018 at 12:49 PM
    #19
    Friedtacolover

    Friedtacolover Well-Known Member

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    Has anyone tied multiple switches into the one tailamp fuse? Not sure how this would work i have 3 switches i need to turn on in darkness as i have them now the one wire isnt hooked up and they are dark until i press the switch which males them hard to find in darkness
     
  20. Jan 12, 2018 at 3:35 PM
    #20
    Big Dustin

    Big Dustin [OP] Well-Known Member

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    5100's all around, OME 887 with 1/4" spacer, icon 3 leaf aal. 255/75/17 BFG KM's on 4runner pro's. Rigid led pods. Debadged and tinted.
    I haven't done it, but I can't see it being an issue. Even with multiple switches, I can't see those LED's drawing more than .1 amps or something insignificant. Worst case scenario, you pop the fuse trying it.
     

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