Turbo BS Thread

You run .026 on which engine exactly? The 5VZ does not favor super small gaps in general (standard is .044). 20% of my WOT. Fueling is methanol (1000cc nozzle maxed out) and that’s with 70% water on top of that. My virtual (I say “virtual” because water doesn’t have an octane rating, but still significantly decreases the knock threshold on its own) octane is ridiculously high in WOT already, so really I don’t need more octane. I like e85 because of the renewable aspects of it, the decreased cost and it’s ability to fully vaporize compared to gasoline.

 

Standard is .044 because that's for na. Once boosted your looking at lowering that. If you get blow out you simply lower gap. I've seen this work on many boosted applications. I don't see how ethanol would cause blow out either.

 

Because e85 has an octane rating of at least 95 depending on who you ask. Octane rating (which I know you know) determines the resistance to heat and compression before ignition. The higher the resistance, the more power the spark has to have to set it off. When you have a very dense and very cool intake air/fuel mixture, the spark has a harder time igniting it. Gadget from URD recommends a gap of .032- .040 on a force inducted 5VZ-fe. There are pages upon pages upon pages of “spark blowout on e85” threads on the interwebs if you google it. It’s a very common problem that is caused by a weak spark or too big of gap. Mine is caused by a weakened spark (due to aftermarket coils), but again I don’t have any misfires if I use less than 5 gallons of e85.

 

That timing at what psi?

 

Yeah try gapping them down a little.

 

8 PSI.
Very lame recordings, but...
2nd gear pull. Goes up to 19 degrees of advanced timing before I let off the gas.
https://www.youtube.com/embed/w8V74dNJF3I?ecver=2

5th gear pull. Starts at 20 degrees advanced timing then drops to 15.
https://youtu.be/UA86N5uKiHM

 

Alright so cruise is on. OD tops out afrs and dropping to 4th bottoms em out

https://youtu.be/bTs8W4EZP5k
Also this popped up? Is it the sensor or be my gap is too big and i have unburned fuel going through?

 

I would say at least 100 octane. That makes sense but I always thought it was from high boost. I had blow out on pump gas before. I know it makes it harder to start on cold days because what you say. Most people swap to e85 crank the boost causing blow out. I never thought it was the e85 causing it.

I know for sure it can preignite. Bad Pistons with hot spots çan cause this. Non projected plugs help stop this moving spark up a bit.

I did a quick search and almost 99% of the time someone on e85 gets spark blow out they turned up the boost but didn't change the gap. People run as low as .014 gap on many different applications.

IMO it's from high boost more than running e85. But I could see how both work together causing it. I'm used to running 17+psi on the low side.

 

So are you getting a studder or hesitation under boost? Hard to tell from video. Did you have this before adding e85?

Side note I highly recommend a real wb02 that you can data log and read when driving.

You can also jack stand tune. Lift her up. Do 3rd gear pulls holding brakes. Neighbors love it!!!

 

I'm not touching boost till I get this figured out man. I did not have this issue before e85 and didn't have it until my last fill up on e85 (1st time on e85 I put 5 gal on an almost empty tank of e15, then when the light came on I put in 12 more gals, still fine just a little lean, now I added some fuel on the table yesterday and everything went nutz).

 

When I add 100% e85 to a vehicle the first thing I do is add 25% fuel across the entire fuel map with injector compensation. Then tune out fuel trims. Once those are good I move onto wot open loop.

It would be nice to see your actual AFR under boost.

 

Acceleration forces are tooo strong to record!

 

I run the one step cooler NGK's at 24 gap. I did a lot of experimenting and this was the largest gap I could use without any blow out at 12 psi. @GioGuitarDude pretty nice timing there. I leaned my CL afrs to 12-12.4 and my timing hasn't changed at all. Starting to wonder what the breaking point of this engine will be if you're not pinging the shit out of it. I'm half expecting it to be the aluminum head at this point. I don't expect a rod to ever break as long as I keep it out of detonation and don't over rev. I remember a build a while back where a guy made 350 whp on stock engine with a custom turbo manifold at only 10 psi, e85 and alcohol injection.

 

I forget you have a 3rz?

 

@Jcyr 5vz

 

Ahh

 

Now that LCE sells a forged rod/piston kit for like $1,200 though I'm considering switching.

 

When my w59 trans starts to go and I switch to rseries I'm going fully forged hbeam and 8.1 pistons and maybe even further if I have Luis build it. But until then my motor with stock rods will out perform my trans so no reason to upgrade yet

 

When my w59 trans starts to go and I switch to rseries I'm going fully forged hbeam and 8.1 pistons and maybe even further if I have Luis build it. But until then my motor with stock rods will out perform my trans so no reason to upgrade yet

 

I'm new to all this, so I gotta ask...
What's all this talk about alcohol, water and methanol injection?
It's to cool temps? Anything else? Why choose one over another?
I understand E85 is for higher octane.

Edit:
At what point is this stuff necessary?