Aftermarket rotors? The OEM's suck

I've used Centric Premium rotors with good results and also switched to EBC Yellow pads. The pads have a TON more bite than the stock setup. I also swapped out the lines for SS lines. I tow a 19' fiberglass bass boat frequently (3500 lbs) and drive fairly "spirited" considering its a pickup truck. No warping yet and I'm on my second set of the Centric/EBC combo. I don't have any regrets with the combo. It's a good mix of stopping power/dust level/no squeal and provides performance levels that these trucks should have stock.

 

I've had good luck with Brembo blanks (for auto-x/HPDE as well--NOT in the Tacoma). I've also had good luck with Autozone Duralast rotors as well. They weren't any better than Brembo. But they did carry a 3 year warranty against warping. If they warp, just bring them back in for new ones.

Get good pads, though. I haven't looked, but if available, I'll get some Hawk LTS pads (or EBC) when it comes time to do the brakes.

 

the 918 uses carbon ceramic rotors. completely different ball game anyways

 

I've never done a brake job in my life and after watching a youtube video I took a shot at it. Not bad at all.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MVOSXUL5qBI

 

Carbon ceramic rotors are drilled though, not formed with them and good enough for high end applications.

 

lol you're taking it way too personally because you seem to own a 911. Sorry to burst your bubble but yes rear engine is INFERIOR. If rear engine was better then why does every new generation of 911 continue to move the engine farther forward?? And Porsche is awesome but its not like there aren't other world class super cars out there: McLaren, Ferrari, Lambo, Koenigsegg.... if rear engine was better why does NO ONE else do it?? Even Porsche on its actual super cars?? Why is the 918 not rear engine?? Carrera GT??

And the RSR going mid engine has just as much to do with the moment of inertia as it does the rear diffuser... which is why every supercar is mid-engine.

 

Go with EBC green stuff and EBC slotted and dimpled rotors.
Run these on my 1st gen and both my jeeps, couldn't be happier.
A little on the pricey side, but hey you have a 3rd gen...

 

^^This, I have this exact combo on my 2nd gen and it stops on dime! It was a bit on the expensive side but with upgrading LT-tires/rims/and other mods to the truck; it only adds weight so I wanted some rotors/pads that would give me more stopping power and last a lot longer than OEM ones.

 

You told me to shut up about 911s so now its my turn to tell you to shutup about brakes...

You must be pretty old because you seem to remember a time when brake pads were made with asbestos... which caused gas buildup and is why drilled rotors were invented. We haven't been doing that in almost 40 years... drilled/Slotted rotors have NOTHING to do with "gas buildup". Slots still help with ejecting brake pad material that's leftover but still nothing to do with gas, that hasn't been a problem since the 1970s.

 

Funny, I have 3500 miles on my 2017 and I recently noticed shaking when brakes applied at 60 mph

 

I disagree, the slots don't really do much either[some will argue they will "knock" off any glazing due to excessive heat, but this is for high temp pads and racing(opposite end of the tacoma spectrum), and I'm not even sure I buy that]. In fact, you could argue that they hinder brake performance ever so slightly by reducing mass. Of course, it is a negligible amount of mass difference, but just for sake of argument.

The best bang for the buck for cast rotors is first starting with a quality casting(not drilled or slotted), and then having them cryo/thermally treated to stabilize the grain structure.

And cast rotors don't really warp, what you are feeling is run-out, either from uneven pad material deposits/transfers, uneven wear from having debri between the pad/rotor etc., worn wheel bearings or components can also cause knock-back which translates into brake shudder.

 

I agree with everything you said. I'm not a fan of drilled or slotted rotors, I'm shooting down the common "gas" myth and passing on along the claims that manufacturers still make about slotted rotors even though I agree with you on their effectiveness (or lack thereof)

 

Links to any of the aftermarket rotors or pads? Stock rotor diameter?

My OR is getting a little wobbly on braking and I've almost eaten up the pads, so I need to replace soon. I have a dial indicator, but haven't measured yet. Any actual numbers for how off the rotors have to be to feel warping?

Note: Found max run out of 0.05mm on another forum.

 

At the risk of being repetitive, I think a lot of responses have said you may not need new rotors. New pads, clean rotors. Akebono, EBC, Hawk are all high-quality replacements. Read this:
http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths

 

I'd love some carbotech XP8's for my tacoma, think I'll send them an e-mail...

 

yeah im saying cast drilled rotors are shit and weak

 

What did your dealer say about replacing your potentially warped rotors?

 

They said I had uneven wear on the pads, so they replaced the pads and machined the rotors under warranty. I wasn't able to look the brake pads, but they said the rotors had some minor grooves. The brake vibrations are gone!

I also had them disable the seat belt chime and change the amount of times the turn signal blinks with a tap from 3 to 5.

 

Okay I guess the cast rotors on new AMGs must be shit and weak

 

yeah and all those amg kids that complain about chattering brakes on their e63s hmm wonder why