Icon waaa waaaa waaaaa

Eric, check the rest of the spot welds along that seam going forward (under the battery tray). I did a repair a while ago on a friend's truck that had dual batteries setup in the stock location. The weight of the batteries combined with bumps and general wheelin caused a small crack like that. We ended up chasing it back and found that most of the spot welds had split and separated the inner and out wheel wells. Drilled them out and added new spot welds AND seam welded that joint. All fixed and it hasn't come back. And it's been about a year now.

 

Currently it is like this. Upper radiator cross bar similarly patched in camp Saturday morning. Plan is to relocate the battery to the passenger side fender near the firewall. All this damage was done without a hammer.

 

So I’m assuming going to a bigger heavier 31m battery is only going to accelerate this problem.

 

Depends on what kind of wheeling you like to do. The go fast stuff that my truck isn’t really built right to do is killing it.

 

Currently I’m only doing the local slow stuff, but once the kiddo is older and I can escape for longer, the faster stuff looks like fun. May need to rethink going to a bigger battery. Never had a problem with the stock one.......

 

I do remember you having a giant battery. Just wasn't sure I you were running duals.

 

For go fast stuff you put the battery in the bed

 

You’ll want an AGM battery, mine is the stock size, fine even with the winch. You should also consider boxing the frame rails if you’re running a swingout bumper. Oh and hydro bumps for the rear.

 

Ideally, yes.

 

After reading through this whole thread for the first time just now, I have come to one conclusion: You all must be drug dealers. I mean, where the hell do you guys get all your money?!

 

Understanding wives

 

My wife is pretty dang understanding, but she'd lose her shit if I dropped $1,200 for new front shocks, decided I didn't like them, then drop another $1,500 on different front shocks.

 

I have had a few of those.

 

Sell them to someone who will take them to get rebuilt... no sense in going through the same ordeal again later. Get Fox's, they're easier on the wallet. I still don't get the draw of Icons, no offense.

 

Actually a lot of people do that. Icon is valved differently than Fox, King, and some others. Icon is a digressive shock, lots of people like digressive in the rear.

 

Man, I should have never replied to this thread in the beginning

 

Wonder if he was smart enough to lower his bump stops too

 

It’s ok, y’all keep breaking top hats and wonder why. One day you’ll understand. There’s a reason every single other company doesn’t mount them the way you do.

 

Because they have a better design then icon.

 

lol...because uptravel is overrated.

Nice understanding of statistics. You have a sample size of one - your improperly mounted shocks against the thousands of properly mounted shocks. I can run across a freeway safely once too.

Anyway, hope you adjusted your bump stops a whole bunch when you did that...

As to why they break it is because of the material and the design. To allow for a bit more total travel and still have a connection for a RR they went with the C shaped top hat. It's way weaker than competing designs as a result. It is just as weak in your improperly installed configuration as well.