drive shaft fix..

Yes I know there is a TSB for the drive shaft issue with some of these early year trucks. Does anyone have a total price of the parts needed for fixing this? I know price will vary depending on where you source parts from, just trying to get an idea..

 

not sure about that. not to be out of line, but i have a 1 piece if interested.

 

I too went with a one-piece shaft after trying nearly every vibration fix on TW. $652 later it is smooth as silk. My local drive line shop used all Spicer/Dana flanges & shaft. They balanced the new shaft before I arrived. Only took him 30 minutes to install.

 

@Drtnap19
I dont have a vibration, I have the clunk or hit from behind sensation. But maybe a one piece shaft would fix my problem too..

 

You trying to sell?

 

Interesting. The clunk is about the only symptom I didn't have. Good luck as I know how annoying this kinda thing can be.

 

annoying is right.. just one more thing to add to the list of necessary replacement and must haves (bed braces from total chaos).

 

Is it possible a U-joint is about to fail? I think a two-piece shaft has 4.

 

If this clunk or hit from behind sensation is when you stop. It's probably the transmission downshifting into 1st.

 

OP are you a 4x4? If so grease your slip joint. Its axle wrap causing the clunk when coming to a stop. If you are a prerunner its the same thing but your slip yoke at the trans.... you can try to lube that slip yoke with grease but its bathed in trans fluid so it will probably get washed away

 

Just a prerunner no 4wd, Ill have to crawl under tomorrow weather permitting..

 

It could be a carrier bearing starting to go out.

 

Will a one piece shaft work properly on my 2wd prerunner? seen threads about it for 4wd but havent seen one about 2wd..

 

No a one piece will not work on the 2wd. The shaft length is way to long on the 2wd.

 

I disagree. There are many trucks with longer one piece drive shafts on the road.

 

Yes that is true. But they are 4" or larger aluminum shafts. There is not enough room at the cross member for the carrier bearing. For a 3.5" shaft at the length for the 4x4 witch is 67.5 to 68.5 depending on manual or auto trans, it is close to critical speed.

 

When you say critical speed , are you talking about whip ?
Anything over 60 inches has a tendency to whip ?

 

Every driveshaft has a safe operating speed before it starts to become unstable. It depends on driveshaft length, material it's made out of, u-joints, etc. If your interested in some info check out Spicer web site. They even have a calculator so you can play around with different set-ups.

 

There are lots of old GM trucks and cars with drive shafts in excess ( way longer, some as long as 80 inches ) than 67 - 68 inches. It doesn't have to be aluminum, steel was used for a very very long time with no problems. Some modifications may be required. As for the cross member the single piece shaft will be lower due to the angle and no joint. A double cardan joint may also be needed.... True balance also plays a big role.

So to say that a single piece drive shaft isn't doable on a 2 wheel drive Tacoma is false.