Ball Joint UCAs and Extended Travel Shocks.

Does that work?

I have a set of Dirt King UCAs with Moog ball joints. I seem to have found my self in a gray area when it comes to pairing the correct coilover.

I'm going to use a Icon front non-resi coilovers I'm not sure if I should go with standard or extended travel lengths.




Standard travel has me thinking the UCAs wouldn't be necessary, but would allow more articulation.

My own conclusion is it won't make much difference.

I spend more time stuck in traffic than offroad FYI

 

First, I come from a first gen, but I’m fairly certain this applies universally...

The aftermarket UCAs are usually more about tire/rim clearance during full articulation than much else.

Mid travel shocks droop more, which means you’re more likely to have the stock uca contact the wheel at full droop.

Ball joints, iirc, generally have more articulation (higher degree of movement) than the uniballs, so that isn’t a limiting factor. The uniballs are just much more durable and have that lower profile to clear the tires.

If you don’t spend much time off road, I wouldn’t waste your money on extended travel, ucas, etc... just go with the shocks that give you the ride you want. Hell, stock shocks are more than up to the task that 90% of drivers put them through...

 

The guy I think to ask is @motoxscott. I have BJ Camburgs paired with extended travel FOX coil overs but that's not because I know one way or the other.

 

All our arms regardless if they are uniball or ball-joint are designed for extended travel FOX, King, and Icon coilovers. If you're going to spend the $$$ on coilovers, always get extended travel versions and make sure the upper arms you're using were designed for them.

- Scott @ Camburg

 

Thank you I know you referenced the Camburg arms, I was thinking most after market control arms including ball joint arms are for extended travel coilover.

I was going to use standard travel and use aftrmarket UCAs to upgrade the ball joint and arm strength. I'm going to go with the extended travel.

Thanks for the other replies as well.

 

New question

Regarding camber or which ever number applies to the UCA, the first numbers on the alignment printout.

My camber is at 3.3 is that an acceptable range? I thought I read somewhere that 4 degrees and under was ok for aftermarket control arms. Caster was under 2 degrees each side.

I'm looking for tire wear for some kind of idea.

I couldn't find the alignment thread.

 

UCAs can add caster. A camber measurement of 3.3 degree sounds like a lot. Is that positive or negative camber? Camber and toe have the most impact on tire wear, caster has effect in how twitchy the steering is, how well it re-centers, etc. It doesn't really have much impact in a straight line on wear.



Here were my measurements after lifting about 2" with those Camburgs, which I believe have +2 degrees of caster built in over stock. IOW, I would have zero caster without them presumably.

 

I have to look at the sheet I know I saw 3.3 IDK if that was positive or negative.

Wheels look like they are inline.

Edit

Looks like my caster was 3.3 each side and camber was 0.1 and 0.2

 

UCA bolts I saw that my passenger side uca bolt is upside down. I've seen some other installs around the net that have also been done this way.

Looking at this from a completely ignorant position, I wouldn't think it would cause issue.

1. Can this cause a problem?

2. Do Tacomas ever come from the factory this way?

3. Is this done because the bolt won't easily go back in the other way?


For aesthetics I'd like to flip the bolt back around, but If it won't cause any issues I could wait until the arm needs servicing.

 

Actually stock arms can achieve almost 2* caster. So you could get more caster and that would also give more firewall and cab mount clearance.

What happens is the tech just puts you in spec. You need to tell the tech you want that additional caster before he aligns. 3-3.5* would be more ideal for tie clearance.

 

You mean upside down like this? I did it this was because I didn't want to bend my fender for clearance. I cut the original bolts, put the new ones in this way and double nutted. The way it is originally is for safety, if the nut comes off the bolt should stay in place due to gravity pointed downhill. So yes, the 'right' way is the way it was originally.

 

That's exactly what we did, zero toe, zero camber and put in as much caster as could be adjusted in. I never had an alignment done stock so I don't know for sure how much could be put in. I had a touch over 2 degrees with the Camburg arms at my lift height, which I thought built in additional compared to stock UCAs. Maybe more could be dialed in but I just wanted at least 2 degrees so we stopped futzing with it when we got roughly 0/0/2.

 

That's a good spot to be at if you have good tire clearance.

 

Yes that's what it looks like, maybe I should add another nut just in case.

Did you do the drivers side the same way?

Checked the pic again that was the driver side.

 

Yup, both sides are the same. Whether it's acceptable or not, I dunno. The second nut just barely fits, I'd prefer that the bolt be a few mm longer but it seems secure.