E-locker/4wd computer Hotwire (not grey wire mod)

e-locker actuator is not getting power. Traced back to 4wd computer, which is receiving power, but not sending it to the actuator. New from dealer these computers are $270, has anyone hotwired the e-locker and bypassed the 4wd computer completely?

 

When I added an elocker to my truck I wired it into the 4WD circuit, but my truck doesn’t have 4WD. I don’t see why you couldn’t give it its own power supply. All prerunner trucks with it don’t go through a 4WD computer

 

Ot can be done with a switch. LowRange sells a nice kit woth the switch and harness.
Or i can make you one up similiar to thier's but a little cheaper price.

 

I would be very carful with this. I was having an issue with my elocker and was trying to figure out what was wrong. One of my methods was to wire it directly and when doing that I gave it power for to long at which point the elocker locked but didn't stop, this burned my compositors inside the actuator. Good this I was able to pull it off and solder new one. I was worried Id have to replace the whole actuator but was lucky enough to only do minimal damage. I would recommend to leave the system the way it is. Try to find a used computer at a junk yard at a better price. Just my 2 cents.
Good luck

Here is one on Ebay right now under $50.00:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1998-TOYOT...ash=item2f0d35e3b0:g:uAQAAOSw-09Z55jS&vxp=mtr

 

Like others have said, you can wire up a DTDP relay to run the e-locker. I ran mine like that for a few years, no issues. I ended up with an elocker ecu and swapped it in. I like it better.

 

I'm pretty sure OP was just asking about wiring the main power wire to a separate source and still using the locker computer. All this means is that the locker computer gets power from something other than the 4wd computer.

 

Oh....


Well in that case,

The locker ECU has two power sources... One being a 20a 4wd fuse, and the other being the 10a gauge fuse. The 4wd fuse is a constant source and the gauge fuse is connected when the diff lock button is pushed.

 

The locker computer and the 4wd ECU are one and the same thing. And no, you cannot just run 12v to the locker because you'll fry it. It needs a relay if you're ditching the 4wd ECU

 

I think you misunderstood. I'm talking about the wire that gives power to the COMPUTER, not directly to the locker. This gets power from the 20A 4WD circuit. On a 99 this wire is Black-Yellow and goes to pin 5 of the locker computer.

And FYI, trucks with the locker and 4WD have two "4WD" computers. The locker one is called the "4WD Control ECU" and the 4WD one is called "4WD ECU".

 

Interesting. So they changed it for second gens because those if you have 4x4 have only one 4wd ECU with a red sticker if TRD off-road (read: elocker) or blue if open diff.
I don't know how the locker is controlled on TRD off-road prerunners (2x4)

 

Here are the 4WD wiring diagrams and locker wiring diagrams for a 1999. Keep in mind that wire colors did change throughout the years.

You can see that the only wire that goes from the 4WD ECU to the 4WD Control ECU (locker) is the grey wire. This wire will only ground if the transfer case is in 4L in a vehicle with 4WD. In a Prerunner with the locker it is just grounded by default. The grey wire mod is grounding this wire.

The power for the locker computer just shares the same power source that the main 4WD ECU uses.

 

So I just reread this post, and I may be wrong in assuming that OP wanted to "hotwire" the computer. I think you all were correct that he wanted to "hotwire" the locker actuator itself. I apologize for not reading that correctly.

Since the 4WD computer (not locker computer) does not send power to the 4WD control ECU (locker computer), I can now assume that the locker computer is not outputting a signal to the locker actuator.

@Tacofart
If your truck is 4WD you must do the following to engage the locker:
Shift transfer case into 4L
Be moving less than 5mph
Press RR lock button, the light on the dash will flash and turn solid when the locker engages.


What symptoms are you experiencing? Is the light on the dash continuously flashing when you press the button?

Here is the procedure for testing the locker actuator using a heater relay. Like many posting before, you DO NOT want to hook power directly to the locker actuator.