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05 Tacoma keeps eating Low Beams. Diagnosis Help

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by TacomaZL, Oct 27, 2017.

  1. Oct 27, 2017 at 10:06 AM
    #1
    TacomaZL

    TacomaZL [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I'm going to be working on a friends 05 Tacoma. The truck is having a problem with only the driver's side headlight. It has always had trouble with eating bulbs, but the last bulb lasted a month and is becoming expensive to replace a headlight every month. Here's what I'm planning on checking, feel free to tell me your thoughts on it or what else I should check.

    1) Check for Corrosion on the bulb/at wiring harness

    2) Check the voltage at the harness. See if there are spikes in voltage (checking to see if the alternator has a faulty Voltage Regulator).

    3) Check grounds at the headlight

    4) Check for corrosion at the Relay and or Fuse

    Anything else?
     
  2. Oct 27, 2017 at 10:15 AM
    #2
    SeafireXV

    SeafireXV Well-Known Member

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    Check the headlight mounting to determine if unwanted vibration or movement is present. Had a tail light on an old truck that always burned out due to the light assembly shaking really badly, and couldn't figure it out with the truck sitting still. It vibrated the bulb to the point it broke the filament.
     
  3. Oct 27, 2017 at 10:16 AM
    #3
    TacomaZL

    TacomaZL [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Good point. Thank you for pointing that out.
     
  4. Oct 27, 2017 at 10:20 AM
    #4
    Texoma

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    A bunch a cool stickers, a bada ass MetalMiller Tx Longhorns grill emblem painted Hemi Orange, JBA long tube headers with o2 sims, Diff breather mod, Red LED interior lights, Fancy head unit that plays ipod n movies, Also DIY install factory stuff like, factory cruise control, factory intermittent wipers, OME nitro struts with 886x springs and toy tec top plate, JBA high caster UCA's for better alignmnet and dey beefier too, Old Man Emu Dakar leaf springs in da rear with the gear, U bolt flipper, Ivan Stewart TRD rims with 33" K Bro 2's, some bad ass weather tech floor liners so I don't muck up my interior, an ATO shackle flipper for mo travel in da rear wit the gear, also super shiny Fox 2.0 shocks back there too, all sorts of steal armor for bouncing off of the rocks like demello sliders, AP front skid, trans skid, n transfer skid, demello gas tank skid, and a tough as nails ARB bumper with warn 8k winch, I'm sure there's more
    What brand of lamps are you putting in? Look on the back of the package, it will have an estimated amount of hours that they are supposed to last. The cheapest ones have over 1000hrs of life, where as the fancier brighter ones have only about 120hrs of life.
     
    Pabloeeto likes this.
  5. Oct 27, 2017 at 10:21 AM
    #5
    TacomaZL

    TacomaZL [OP] Well-Known Member

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    The truck uses the el cheapo Sylvanias. Don't remember what they call them. But its the Walmart special cheap headlights
     
    TacomaJay09 likes this.
  6. Oct 27, 2017 at 10:24 AM
    #6
    Texoma

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    Ok, another thing is contamination. Moisture, oil, dirt, pretty much anything. The seal is important because of ambient humidity can have an effect on this. Also wear nitrile gloves to install to avoid oily fingers from contacting the lamp.
     
  7. Oct 27, 2017 at 10:24 AM
    #7
    DaVikes

    DaVikes Well-Known Member

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    Check current draw on each harness at the connector. They should be the same. If not, corrosion might be the cause of higher draw. Can’t figure out why that would cause bulb failure though.
     
  8. Oct 27, 2017 at 10:26 AM
    #8
    TacomaZL

    TacomaZL [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the tip. I replaced the last headlight an wore gloves when I put it in. Sadly its still blowing.
     
  9. Oct 27, 2017 at 10:28 AM
    #9
    TacomaZL

    TacomaZL [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I can't either, but I have heard that when corrosion and headlights mix blown headlights can be a result.
     
  10. Oct 27, 2017 at 10:32 AM
    #10
    Texoma

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    Some contact cleaner may help on the harness if there is corrosion.
     
  11. Oct 27, 2017 at 10:37 AM
    #11
    TacomaZL

    TacomaZL [OP] Well-Known Member

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    If I get in there tomorrow and see corrosion I'm just gonna solder in a new harness.
     
  12. Oct 27, 2017 at 10:39 AM
    #12
    Texoma

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    Good idea.
     
  13. Oct 27, 2017 at 11:30 AM
    #13
    Larzzzz

    Larzzzz Grande' Ricardo

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    Clean off the flux, it's acid used to clean the wire to accept the solder. If you can find the shrink tubing with the adhesive inside, that'll seal the solder joint for almost ever.
     
  14. Oct 27, 2017 at 11:39 AM
    #14
    YoterHead

    YoterHead Well-Known Member

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    Are you using electrical grease when installing the new lights? I had a couple of bulbs go out pretty quick on me without the grease. I used it on the next set and the current set has lasted a couple of years so far.
     
  15. Oct 27, 2017 at 11:47 AM
    #15
    Larzzzz

    Larzzzz Grande' Ricardo

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    It blows the headlight because corrosion is added resistance to the circuit. This added resistance is lowering the available voltage to the headlight.
    The headlight is 55 watts low beam let's say, and the normal voltage to the lamp is 13.5 volts. That lamp is using just over 4 amps of current.
    Going overboard to illustrate the point, the corrosion is so bad, that there's only 10 volts available to the light. The light still wants to produce 55 watts of light, but now it draws 5.5 amps of current. That current is to much for the filament to carry, and blows open.
     
  16. Oct 27, 2017 at 11:57 AM
    #16
    knottyrope

    knottyrope Well-Known Member

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    its a resistive load and lower voltage will mean lower current

    AC motors on the other hand will draw more current with less volts
     
  17. Oct 27, 2017 at 12:46 PM
    #17
    TacomaJay09

    TacomaJay09 Well-Known Member

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    +1 I found this out the hard way after replacing bulbs every couple months. After a WTF rant moment at the local AutoZone, the guy offered me some light bulb education. Those bulbs are a bitch to replace with that stupid tension spring/rubber boot pretzel contraption. HATE THOSE F'NG LIGHT BULBS!
     
  18. Oct 27, 2017 at 3:02 PM
    #18
    Jimmyh

    Jimmyh Well-Known Member

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    Corrosion would cause a higher resistance... and lower current.

    E = I X R

    I = E / R

    R = E / I
     
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  19. Oct 27, 2017 at 3:52 PM
    #19
    Larzzzz

    Larzzzz Grande' Ricardo

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    Aux back up lights, Bed lights, Re-located trailer plug, Good dooby, a.k.a. jumper cable mod, Heated seats, back up camera,
    The corrosion is a resistance in series with the lamp and will therefore have a voltage drop across it.
    Don't compare ac and dc. Especially motors... Inductance, phase shift, power factor all contribute variables that aren't present with dc.
     
  20. Oct 27, 2017 at 4:17 PM
    #20
    Jimmyh

    Jimmyh Well-Known Member

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    You cannot increase the resistance and also increase the current. Not possible. Watts is not a measurement of light, but expended energy.

    I agree with what you are saying with the exception of the power rating of the installed lamps. The added resistance will not cause any increase in current due to the voltage loss at the corroded connection. Power in watts is developed from the voltage multiplied by the current. P = I x E.

    Good link. Plug in some numbers:

    http://www.ohmslawcalculator.com/ohms-law-calculator
     
    Last edited: Oct 27, 2017

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