New England B.S. Thread

Thats a good call on the alignment with firestone

Im handy and usually do all my own maintenance... but living in temp apartment right now, so most my tools are in storage and I have no place to physically do the work.

I was hoping someone might have a good local shop they had worked with and recommended, always prefer working with a local knowledgeable mechanic for stuff I dont have time for or the ability to do.

 

I've done it before, but prefer not to. I got my cap used so there is some play at the attachment of the strut at the window and I'm afraid it will break because it will bounce too much. When I move lumber, I close the window but leave the tailgate open. If I can avoid driving with the window open, I try to.

 

That would be my problem...the handles of my snowblower are tall/rigid. I wouldn't be able to close them. When I had the 2013 I purchased a large hitch basket with a ramp. It did work but the basket would rotate left / right and I was worried it was going to roll off. I much prefer it in the bed, but I much prefer a cap to a tonneau. It's the perfect Catch-22.

 

Look at diamondback covers. They are a very expensive solution. If it's too tall to go under the cover, just throw it on top.

 

I already have the OEM tonneau. I don't really care for tonneaus ad only have mine still because it came with the truck and has some practical value for me. I'd never spend my own money on one.

 

Any input on this one:

I deluged my truck about 20 minutes ago for a solid 10-15 minutes. I varied angle and velocity from straight out of the hose flooding the seal to high velocity spray to letting it rain down both straight out of the hose and with a higher velocity and no drip on the inside of the windshield.

I checked both the windshield seam from end to end as well as the roof and got nothing.

I hit a puddle last week and immediately got a drip in and after an overnight of light rain I had a small puddle in my shift boot (parked on an incline so water would drip out of where the headliner was and drop down onto the boot. I should see something but I don't and it's frustrating.

Ninja Edit:

Found it. So irritating. They globbed on the sealer / urethane and I think it's making its way through and dripping.

 

I have co-workers that must get three drinks a day from them. It's unbelievable.

As for a MacBook, for that kind of money I would much much rather have one of these. Keep trying to talk myself out of buying one. https://www3.lenovo.com/us/en/laptops/thinkpad/thinkpad-x/X1-Carbon-5th-Generation/p/22TP2TXX15G

 

I like the Thinkpad that I have. I don't have the carbon version though.

 

I've got an older ThinkPad, but am itching for a newer one.

We ordered the X1 Carbon for someone at work and it made me really want to buy one for myself. Super thin and light, and the build quality is outstanding.

 

Finally got a response on that green 4runner.
"its been sitting over a year . I charged the battery and it cranked and started today but as soon as i put it in drive it died and wouldnt catch after that. A guy came and looked at it and said he saw some rust on the frame near the rear control arms . He said it could be fixed but he said he had no place to do the work. He was driving a nice 4runner so maybe he was just looking to upgrade and not have to do any work .

I don't think its fuel , if you try cranking it you can smell gas . I don't think its spark either , maybe a mass air sensor or something like that. The battery being dead so long cleared all the codes and it didn't run long enough to set any again. I have a trailer I could scrap it but I think its too nice for that."

 

If there's cancer by the control arms (typical spot for them) then that would definitely need to be addressed. It could be a sensor, but that wouldnt explain why it did start for him. If the MAF, throttle, cam, or crankshaft position sensors are bad then it won't start usually. Sometimes the MAF or throttle position will allow it to start but not run well. There could be so many things. Is it an auto or a manual? I forget

 

Buy then transplant

 

Post link of sale again? What did he want

 

https://boston.craigslist.org/sob/cto/d/1999-toyota-4runner/6360210496.html

 

Id just fix it. The 3.4 is a great motor

 

I bet he’s got a bigger motor issue than he’s leading on to was my point. You can find a working 3.4 in a lot of junkyards cheap. Could also freshen up the 3.4 for cheap as long as the head isn’t warped.

 

I’d love to find a good frame but blow motor Tacoma for cheap to put my motor in when I get around to building and swapping a forged 3rz into my taco

 

Take the heads off, then it's proper to send them off to be checked for warps and cracks. I would be willing to bet its probably something stupid, but you never know. I would have to look at it to see what it might be. Could be a fuel pressure regulation issue or idle air control valve since it died once he put it in gear.

I had a buddy in high school that sunk his jeep. We pulled the plugs, got the water out. Then Not even 5 mins from his house it died and would stay running once you put it in gear. Found the ATF turned to strawberry milk. Once we flushed it all out it ran well.

 

Yeah the whole “sitting for a year” part is what makes me skeptical especially if it’s an otherwise clean truck... it’s cheap enough to be worth the chance 100% if frame and interior are good

 

Wanna split it and flip it lol cause I don't have the know how. I can check it out Saturday take pics and video and send it to ya