Power to cigarette lighter and two Dc jacks...

my truck (2004) has the cigarette lighter jack and the two other utility jacks, but NONE of the three have continuous power when the key is off....
I need it on at least one to keep my XM radio on while the truck isn't on....
Can anyone tell me an easy way to convert one of these to constant power?

 

run directly to battery.

 

Just run a hot line from the battery with a fuse close to the battery, and a toggle switch next to one of the outlets. Plug the hot line into the outlet you want to use. And the toggle switch is there to turn the outlet off when you don't need it al all.

 

There’s a relay under the hood, labeled power, or something like that. Pull it and run a jumper to it. Takes 45 seconds. Super easy. I’ve run this on my 2004 since about 2007.

 

You need to tap into a wire from the DOME fuse. Those have continuous power. There should be one going to the radio, clock if you have one, interior light.

I guess you have a portable XM radio?

 

Thanks...that is what I was looking for....I am assuming you disconnect the existing hot wire that is fed from the switch and splice into the dome continuous feed and replace that into the cigarette hot?
And yes, I do have an external XM radio....one of the small units that I will mount somehow near the radio...this radio does not have an aux jack either (unless there is one on the rear that I am unaware of)
So I have to use the FM modulator feature which isn't great but is the only option.

 

Yep, this is the fix. There is a write up somewhere, but it is exactly as jbrandt describes. Here's a couple photos. The relay is labeled, "PWR OUTLET". My relay is pulled and you can see the black jumper wire in its place. Do this and your twin 12v outlets in cab will be available whether ignition is on or not.

 

I didn't realize there was a separate relay for the cigarette power outlet. That solution is a lot easier than cutting and splicing wires. I endorse this method.

 

You should really use yellow terminals and red wire like I did...

Just kidding, I actually just got back in from taking pics of my setup, but I guess I don’t need to pist them now...

 

So there was a relay there, and I remove it and put in a jumper?
I can't see what two terminals the wires are going to?
Do you use some sort of spade connector?

 

Yes, standard spade ends. I'll try and take another up close picture later today but once you remove the relay you should be able to interpolate which slots to use based on the photo posted above. IIRC there were only five slots for that relay.

 

+1, great easy trick to keep outlets hot all the time. Cigarette lighter goes off as usual with ignition, the two power outlets stay hot. Good combo to have.

Oh, and use yellow wire. Just kidding!

 

Funny thing, I'm so clueless about the color(s) of my jumper... It's actually red wire with yellow connectors. I've edited my post, you know, because that sort of thing matters, lol...

Anyway, I'll post my pic just because it shows a little different perspective and might show where the spade connectors go a little better.

 

We are looking for the relay for the Power Outlet (cabin), 2006 Tacoma. Assume it is the item marked "120". We have check fuses 15A, 20A, & 30A, all are good, but still no power to outlet.

There is no designated relay for the Power Outlet relay on the fuse box diagram, or a designated fuse for the outlet / cig. lighter (model 2006). Tested fuses with a circuit detector, many failed testing. As we replaced the fuses they were tested also only to fail as well. So, the existing fuses failed and the respective replacement fuses failed as well. So, many are shown to be defective that it is not possible for this vehicle to operate. I'm confused.

 

This trick only works on the first gen tacomas. The 2nd gens, like yours are different, iirc.

I know with my 5th gen 4Runner, this trick cannot be done since Toyota moved to solid state relays (all on a signle circuit board), and even then, stashed it under the dash. So, to do this same thing, it's better to just wire straight from the battery.

 

I'd advise to put a female on both those wires and splice in a fuse, I would hate to see fellow members have a short. I have seen many trucks and cars totaled from electric fires, constant hot shouldn't be an issue, but....if you want to throw down a layer of safety a 30 amp fuse could stop a short. Cool mod though guys gonna try it myself, thanks for the idea! Don't forget to unplug items from hot, parasitic draw will leave you stranded.

 

You’re replacing a relay, which is a swtich, not a fuse. I think you’re okay with the wire jumper...

 

And that switch leaves you're cig lighter wires hot always....

 

But there already is a fuse in the circuit, probably before the relay, so it's still protected against shorts.

 

I was just giving my two cents. I agree there probably is a fuse before. I believe though an added fuse at the jumper is free if you have two female connections and a fuse, and only prevents an overload. If you think my advice is wrong that's cool I just want to help someone. Do you know what long term effects this will have on the wiring to that circuit? Have you seen a hot wire burn all its insulation by rubbing a ground?, it usually doesn't just take out itself it winds up taking out other wires in the loom. My main concern is; yea there is hot wires in our trucks like the dome light which ties the constant + on the stereo as well but they are of bigger awg compared to the outlets. The hots already on our trucks were designed to handle the stereo hot and dome. I believe in safety, and the factory didn't make those sockets constant for a reason hence my advice. Not trying to offend anybody and you're truck is your truck not mine. How bouts you gunnea pig it and short it for all of us so we know we don't need a fuse added, if so have an extinguisher on hand man!