Long Travel BS Thread

@916TacoTruck

 

I'm sure it's a great product based on the fact that it can get $20-$40 a can, but spraying a large metal cage or surface will get expensive since you'd be using far more paint than what the surface area needs due to the low efficiency of spraying on a small object like a tube. If you could get that in roll on form it would be worth it maybe, but for the same price as using that steel it in a spray can 4-5 coats you could 20 coat it with some great rust preventative primer and extra strength paint coatings and it would take a big rock to ding through to the bare metal if at all before your cage is dented. Run on sentence I know - my bad. Plus you'd have to see what touch up procedures look like with it...

 

Steel-it seems gimmicky and the samples I saw at their booth at Expo were meh. Looked like it was sprayed on real thick and the finish was rough. And the whole claim about welding through it... any good welder would never do it. A quality weld is all about clean metal. I bet it is tough but seems more like marketing to me. Quality spray cans are always good when prepped right. No short cuts at the end of the day.

 

I've used it. Quality stuff. I've welded through it. Welded just like clean metal does. Don't knock it till you try it

 

just because it's more expensive doesn't mean its a higher quality product...

I have 2 coats on my bed cage and just touch up the thin spots that start to show. It's a much thicker paint than regular spray paint, so not as many coats are needed IMO.

Not a gimmick. Welded the mounts for my bedcage through it and it looks just the same as bare metal. It sprays thicker than regular spray paint but when I used it the stuff leveled out to a smooth surface.

 

Fair enough - I never used the stuff. I was trying to be open minded at new products, but I stick to cheap durable coatings based on my experiences. Here's my restomod so far lol.






And a hood that I painted from scratch (came to me in black primer) for my 2nd gen that I made the biggest mistake of painting 2k clear over bedliner (even after a month of summer weather it still gassed off and peeled and led me to scrap the whole project - the sucks).



I'll use expensive stuff when there's no other alternative to do it right - I had $100+ in paint on this hood

 

Questions for those with linked 2nd gens:

1. What are your lower and upper link lengths (pivot to pivot)?
2. Are you still running OEM style 2 piece driveshafts? if so, how much plunge are you seeing?
3. How are your pinion angles bump/ride height/droop?
4. Anything you would change?

Thanks in advance.

@tubbsisland @dirt addiction @Evenflow @DMCtacoma

 

Short or long bed? Full ball half or c notch? Upper link lengths will be different depending on where they're mounted on the axle. Rule of thumb is a inch or less of plunge and 6* of pinion change but I feel anti swat/dive is more important. I probably cycled mine 100 times till I figured out upper link lengths and placement but I can't even get it to 3 wheel with no sway bar and ended up with a inch of plunge. Modified stock ds

 

Just wondering about 2nd gens in general.

Trying to figure out a 3-link panhard for an access cab long bed right now. Looking at 48" lower links, room for 38" upper link.

 

when are you dropping it off ? I'll be here all day.

 

There's no hard or fast numbers. That's something you gotta work out on paper when you design your setup. Separation between upper link and lower link mounts on the frame, as well as what position you mount the lower links on your housing will play a roll in that. As well as the amount of anti squat you want built in. 48" is probably the shortest I'd go in the lower links. The setup I designed for my truck (dcsb) will use 51" lower links.

Your kind of on your own when designing a setup like this. I'd stick to the general guidelines for setting up linked suspension on an off-road truck and setup link lengths around the geometry and suspension characteristics you're shooting for. In order to get exact lengths from someone they will need to give their exact mounting locations as well.

The best answer I can give you is take it to @jeffz0rz

 

Would your bypasses work on a tc kit? I need to get some for my front.

 

We're also a distributor for Steel-It. Works great !

https://camburg.com/shop/fabrication/steel-it-14-oz-aerosol-stainless-steel-coating/

 

Do you happen to know what the wms-wms is on that currie? I just found it on the web site but theirs no measurements.

 

You would custom order to match your front trac width

 

Ok cool I didnt see any thing about it on the web site. Thanks for the info!

 

I'm not trying to copy anyone's setup.

What I was really after were some ratios for those who were happy with their 3-link panhard route, specifically on 2nd gens. I have an access cab and the only others here who have gone this route are double cabs, so copying them wouldn't do me any good anyway. Thanks for the advice though.

 

The dcsb and aclb will actually be very similar only difference will be shock location and making sure your geometry stays in check thru the extra droop travel gained from the aclb better shock positioning