Supercharged engine running hot

Well, after the new rad cap and using a garden hose on the fins it was still idling a little hot. Engine went up to 212, trans was only at like 200. The ac was blowing cold so it's a step in the right direction. Maybe the 0.05 lbs that was missing in the system made a difference. Weather has been so hot I haven't really wanted to mess with taking the rad out for a proper pressure washing. Also I noticed if I put the trans in park it seems to run a few degrees cooler instead of holding the brake and leaving it in drive. I'll update when I get around to trying a few more things.

Not sure if it will help with the hot engine temps but I am also highly considering running methanol/water injection for the supercharger.

 

The reason your trans temp drops when in neutral/park vs in gear is because the clutches aren't slipping, causing friction while the brakes are held and the trans is trying to push through them.

 

To be fair, the clutches in an automatic transmission shouldn't be 'slipping'

The 'slipping' at a stop comes from the torque converter.

 

Someone needs to make an upgraded radiator w/ e-fan provisions that doesn’t cost $1,000+ like the Ron Davis one does.

 

Totally agree. Honestly I am considering moving the intercooler somewhere else, and putting some material between the ac condenser/main rad to help force air through it. Also going to look into relocating the cabin hvac intake out of the damn engine bay. Might have to cut open my hood scoop as I think it would allow some of the hot air to escape the heat box that is my engine bay.

 

What is "no issues" in numerical form?
190, 195, 200?

 

Super like

 

Have you pulled your thermostat out to test it? Seems to me you didn’t have a problem till they added the supercharger, but you also had them do the water pump too. If they put in a new thermostat, I’d test it out. I think there’s also a specific orientation the thermostat is supposed to be installed, and putting it upside down can cause increased temps.

 

It’s still the original thermostat. I don’t really think it’s my problem, on <90 degree days, the truck runs perfectly fine doesn’t go above 194. I wouldn’t rule it out 100% as I can’t be certain with out testing it, but I feel like it would run hot all the time if it was the thermostat.

 

Won’t know unless you test it. You shouldn’t be getting the fluctuation you are. I have a supercharged 1st gen, and it added like 1 or 2 degrees to my coolant temps. No matter how hot it is outside, I never see above 191. My clutch fan is working overtime though when it’s hot out.

 

Had the thermostat changed and the block tested. No leaks on the block. The weather is cool out here so I can’t get the truck to heat up like normal. Will report back when we get a hot day so I can test it and see.

 

Forgot to mention, also zip tied the water inlet hose so it cant rub on the fan. Zip tied it to the wiring loom in the upper right of the picture.

As you can see belowthe fan blade was hitting it every so often.. probably when I was doing a little too much of this

Happy to report there is now plenty of clearance!

 

Alright, I just skimmed through the thread again. I could have easily missed it, as I was only looking for pictures.

What kind of grill does your truck have?

Does your truck have anything else blocking air flow through the radiator? (Bumper, skid plate)

Have you removed the plastic diverter panel, on top of the radiator, or is it still there?

Have you checked the level of your trans fluid? If low, it will be running hotter, and cause the coolant system to be hotter. Since they share the same radiator.

Have you topped off the radiator, and idled the engine with the heater on high, to remove air bubbles?

If your radiator, A/C condenser, or s/c cooler are tarnished brown with dirt, have you sprayed degreaser on them (simple green, or which ever else you prefer) to try and remove it?

Is your s/c coolant actually circulating, when you pull the cap off of the reservoir?

 

1. Stock grill
2. Stock bumper/skid plates
3. Plastic diverter is still there
4. I haven’t checked my trans fluid myself, but I did just have it flushed <10,000 miles ago. I will check it just to be sure it is filled the correct amount.
5. No air in the cooling system
6. I did try spraying degreaser and using compressed air to clean it out.
7. S/c coolant is full and circulated with the engine on.

 

Just so you don’t feel like you are the only one, I have been dealing with the same issues. It’s not bad now because highs are only in the 50s so my engine temps max out at 194 under the heaviest loads, but during the summer it was a different story. Especially pulling the trailer. I have a new water pump and thermostat I am going to install first since my truck has 80k on the clock but I will keep this thread updated on what I find as well

 

Got to remember this as well, that when the ambient temperatures are around the 100's, your cooling system will be taxed even more. Radiant heat from the cooking roads and traffic will only amply the taxation.

Road surfaces can be around 120º +.

An fairly easy it to do an external trans cooler. Independant of the radiator. Such as what the tow package trucks come with.

That will relieve some of the stress on the cooling system.

 

If I have to tow package, do you think I should replace that cooler with a better aftermarket cooler? Also I have always wondered if adding an oil cooler would help.

Maybe after all it’s not an airflow issue but just the hotter air coming off the ground causing problem for the cooling system.

 

Ambient air radiating heat, dual purpose radiator, s/c with its inherent heat, ducting which isn't as efficient as that of a 4Runner's to channel and funnel air right through the radiator.

The cooler will definitely help. As will a Brute Force Fab diverter panel. Every little bit helps when doing heat abatement.

 

This is good stuff to clean your radiator with.

 

What is the brute force fab diverter panel?