Premium Audio Upgrade for less than $250

Well, just my two cents, but I don’t think the brand of speakers is the big deal. Just getting the old ones out and putting in something decent is all you really need. If you can’t get the deal that they had on the Kickers, you could look at a different brand that may have a better price point and you would still love the upgrade.

You get the mounts and wire harnesses for free, so Crutchfield meets what the total cost from Amazon was for me. You can try to get other mounts, but I would guess you’d have similar issues if you are using the same speakers as noted by the OP.

 

For everyone who had issues with the speakers aligning with the bracket holes....is there enough material on the brackets to drill your own holes if you have to? I'm thinking maybe about drilling my own holes and using some small bolts with washers and nuts to make sure the speakers are really secure. I just don't like the idea of having crooked screws going into plastic to hold these speakers in place. Trying to avoid any vibration issues with this

 

I appreciate all the responses! Since most everyone here who used the OP speakers seems to love their setup, that's why I want to go with those. Just to make things easier plus there are links already provided and they are currently on sale again I think. I guess to avoid making anything else more complicated I'm just gonna go with whatever Crutchfield includes for free as far as mounts go. I'm gonna trust my mechanical abilities will be sufficient to make any needed modifications to the brackets to get them how I want lol. I hate being picky

 

I used 3 of the 4 stock holes and then drilled a hole to screw into for the 4th screw.

 

That's good to know. I'l probably end up doing that

 

Did anyone ever address whether the 80 mil or 50 mil noico was better? Is the 80 too thick to mount the door back together tightly?

 

For the front mounting bracket my kicker 6x9 came with the right length mounting screws in the box. If you place the speakers on the mounting bracket DO NOT ALIGN the speaker flush to the bracket. Give it an inch gap and place the mounting screws into the speaker holes then the mounting bracket holes. Some of the screws will not line up exactly and will be a bit diagonal. Slowly screw the 4 screws a little at a time and they will line up when they are fully screwed in.

As for the sound deadening I placed some of it on top of the plastic..and a little circle in the inner door next to crash bar. I know it was a half ass job but the I've been getting clean and tight bass. No rattles what so ever. I also figured if I need to remove The sound deadening it will be easier to do so. You never know if/when the window motor will break down and be replaced so I want to make sure I have future easy access.

 

Thanks for the advice! I'l have to see what it looks like once I get it all. What part of the plastic door panel did you put the sound deadening stuff on?

 

You’ll be fine - little bit of tinkering but everything they provide works just fine. Just take your time and secure the speakers as best you can and be easy with the speaker adapters as they are a tight fit. Plenty of folks have ordered the kits off crutchfield with great success

 

Thanks OP for the thread, and all the links! Since I bought this truck in August, I was thinking that one day I would upgrade the sound system. Since I saw this thread a few days ago I decided that day would be soon!

I just ordered everything a few minutes ago. $293 for me, but I went with the 36 sq ft of the 80 mil Noico just to make sure I would have enough. I usually put more than necessary when I do things like that lol. I also bought the roller to apply the stuff.

One thing I noticed was that on crutchfield when I was reviewing my order, the rear speakers did not show the mounting hardware included for some reason. If they don't come with hardware I guess I'll have to use my own.

One more thing: how difficult is it to take off the vapor barrier (or whatever it's called) plastic sheeting and felt pad material, and put it back on over the Noico? I don't want to just throw that stuff away, I would rather put it back on the doors after I put the Noico stuff on

 

Just on these spots. Sound is great! Either way you do it I think you'll be happy with the sound. No rattling or vibration what so ever.

 

Looks pretty good. I may try to put more on tho because like I said I'm pretty OCD about stuff lol. I like the color of your truck by the way

 

Thanks! Yours looks pretty good too! If you have any other questions let me know. I see you're from az too!

 

Thanks man! Yup, I live in Surprise. Thanks, I'll probably be posting in here a bunch more. My stuff should get here around Thursday.

 

36 sq ft is plenty to do the doors. I think I used about 31 sq ft and that included fully covering the door panel within the plastic panel clip points and then covering the inside of the outer door panel in the lower half of the door By the way, wear gloves when you do anything inside the door there are a number of rough spots that will tear up your hands.

The vapor barrier will come right off without a lot of effort. The "glue" they used is more like a caulk that holds the plastic but will give when you peel it off. If you want to reapply it over the sound deadening, just make sure you remove any screws and carefully feed the wires and door cables through as you peel it off.

 

I had the same issue. But both sets of brackets arrived in box.

 

So i just discovered this thread yesterday and there are 55 pages worth great info on here, but I haven't gone through it all nor do I think I will. does anyone know if the stuff in the links in the first page is still all you need to get a pretty decent upgrade? TIA

 

Yes, it's a great upgrade, especially without having to install an amp.

 

Thanks to all who have replied. I think I'll save a little more and pull the trigger on the tweets and some sound deadening. I think my real downfall was listening to a pair of FOCALS a few weeks before - those speakers are crazy good.

 

Thanks for the advice. I'm gonna see if I can pull off some of the plastic vapor barrier little bit at a time and put the Noico stuff then put the plastic back down. See if I can just do it little by little without taking it off completely. We'll see how that goes.

You mention that it's held on with a caulk like material. Will it stick back on when I go to re-apply it or will I need glue?