Supercharger Quick Change Pulley

Updated page 2 and initial post.

 

Interestingly enough, the belt I pulled off which was a replacement one with 25 or 26K miles on it had deep cracks almost to the point of splitting down to the actual belt itself. Good thing I changed it. Aside from that, after changing the belt not only did I find hat boost was WAY more stable and consistent but my vacuum at idle went up from 18 to 22 in. hg. That old belt really was slipping quite a bit at all times. No wonder my boost was all over the place! This applied true to even when I had the 2.85 pulley on. Moral of the story: do not change pullies and leave the stock size belt in place and call it "good" simply because you think the tensioner will absorb the extra slack. You are only doing yourself a disservice by doing so.

I also went ahead and spaced out the idler pulley for good measure. I used two thick washers equaling 1/8" when put together. It spaced out the belt just near perfect center on the pulley. Now I feel at ease.

Pictures.









And some pulley porno just because.

 

I've got a boost gauge coming so I can see what kind of boost I'm currently making. I'm running a TRD blower on my 2015 taco with the 4.0 and seeing an afr of 9.5 when flooring it and 14.6 at cruise. I had the same blower on my 2010 taco and it felt like it had more zip, though both were running the URD 2.85 pulley, lt headers, TRD cat back and afe cai. The only diff is the 15 I'm using the new URD LT's vs the DT's I ran on the 2010, so maybe I'm making less boost with less restriction? And the air pump on this 2015.

I'm considering getting the 2.7 pulley from these guys, depending on how much boost I'm making now vs the gains from the 2.7. I live at 6500' elevation in n.e. Az and occasionally run down to Phx where I'd like to not see over 8.5lbs on a cool winter evening, but I'd like to see at least 6.5lbs up here at elevation. Willing to get the fuel pump upgrade kit from URD and trust that would be enough to cover the needs from the 2.7 or the 2.6 pulley. Any input on these plans I'd like to know.

May need some detailed info on removing the current 2.85 pulley (the shop that installed it said the stock 3.0 pulley was a pita to remove and the 2.85 the same to install), and installing the 2.7/2.6 as far as the correct tool to pull the existing pulley and then trimming the snout and installing the hub. Thanks!

 

I have a 2.85 in phx with urd headers etc, i only really see 6 psi from 60-90 degrees ambient air temp

 

Sweet jesus you are running insanely rich.

Footenotes:
- yes you should change out the fuel pump. My recommendation is either the

$125 AEM 50-1200 E85 In-Tank Fuel Pump, Black, 4.055 x 1.535 x 1.535"es

AEM 50-1200 fuel pump green top or the Aeromotive red top pumps. Your current stock pump lacks fuel volume.

- yes the supercharger pulley is difficult to install. That is why I recommend the quick change pulley. It makes changing sizes out an absolute breeze. It turns the job from taking an hour long to a 5 minute job and a lot less sweat factor as far as nervousness is involved. To do the final install on this setup you will need to press on the hub like you would all these other pulley's. After that the pulley bolts on like a well thought out design.

- as far as your elevation compared to AFR is concerned you should be able to actually go down to the smallest size pulley available in the quick change configuration which is 2.5" no problem. You may want to check with @TRON as he runs a full effort configuration at a high elevation as well. I believe you should be okay though.

- reason you are making less boost is because there is less restriction. The higher the restriction the higher the boost, but high boost is not a good thing if you are being restricted.

- I always see the term DT.. Please clarify what that is?

- Once you do your HP gaining mods you may want to consider FPR mod. I felt an immediate increase in zip the moment I switched vacuum sources from the intake port to the supercharger port.

 

Sup Roberto!

DT = Doug Thorley headers

- I always see the term DT.. Please clarify what that is?

 

Thank you for that Mr. Eddie! Hello to you as well! Good to see you still on here! Hope all is well.

 

This is awesome imformation as I am a total supercharger NOOB and did not have the pleasure of installing mine.

 

Well since someone already gave you the DT answer, I'd like to know what the NPR is? Haha.

I realize that I have less restriction with the exhaust items and I'm guessing up here at 6500' I'm probably not even making 5psi of boost. Another reason the pullies you are touting interest me greatly, with being able to possibly run a 2.5 up here and maybe a 2.7 down in Phx at 1500'. I had a full size 07 GM truck with the 6.0 I put a magnacharger on and saw 4.5lbs up here. I had to drop two sizes on the pulley to see 6.5psi and it never really impressed me so I pulled it off and sold it.

Got an email back from URD today and he said its hit and miss on the newer trucks to see the cel. He did mention that the ucon product was very successful, so I mentioned that I'd like to see a package price for the upgraded fuel pump kit, snout trimmer and install tool and then the ucon. I'll see what he says. If anyone has the snout trimmer and install tool they could loan me I'd pay a small fee to use and return on my dime. Thanks!!!

Or better yet, 12TRDTacoma, you could just wander on over and demonstrate your prowness at removing the existing pulley and installing the new hub. Heck, I'd buy you a root beer and fries for that kind of effort...at least!

 

Install a new SC belt the other day. Grips good

 

Looking great. Is there a mini write up somewhere on doing a belt replacement? mines getting a lil cracked.

 

NPR? Do you mean FPR? That would be the Fuel Pressure Regulator.

As far as changing out the pulley goes it is so easy I could demonstrate it to you without ever even removing the belt with the quick change pulley setup.

Check engine light is hit or miss because some of the TRD tunes uploaded into these ECU's actually went slightly leaner on the air fuel ratio. Most however go rich, so you need to lean out the fuel mixture in order to properly step up the mixture to the point where you are not washing the cylinders out in gas. The best way to do so is to upgrade the intake air cleaner. The AFe OR the URD true CAI does fantastically in stepping you up a full point. If you are running 9.5 AFR @ WOT, expect the air fuel ratio to clean up to about 10.5-10.8 AFR WOT with a 2.85 pulley. Part throttle applications is a toss up for some reason.

I am seeing around 11.1-11.3 AFR with my 2.5 pulley @ WOT with the FPR mod enabled @ around 10 psi. Max effort I have seen with my setup is 11 psi @ WOT. Still 11.1-11.3 AFR.

That looks like a Dayco older style Poly cog belt. I have never heard of that brand. Where did you find it?

- Release tension from tensioner using a 1/2 breaker bar or similar. There is a certain position the fan clutch must be in in order to allow enough tension off the belt to slip it off.

- After slipping off belt and removing breaker bar from tensioner assembly, remove 3 (or maybe 4) 12 (or 14mm) bolts to remove tensioner assembly. Once off you may remove old belt entirely.

- install and reroute new belt according to diagram Underhood of supercharger belt routing.

- Once back on and ready for tension to be applied to, tensioner must be reinstalled and tension must be taken off of it to finalize belt routing

- Once all on and all bolts/ nuts securely tightened, enjoy.

 

@12TRDTacoma thank you!!!

 

Curious as well, which brand this is?

 

I'm getting 9.5 afr at wot with my current setup which includes an afe no oil filter and the URD 2.85 pulley.
Still not sure how to install the fpr mod? I've seen no instructions or you tube videos. I know it's supposed to help with fuel requirements and I'd like to do that as well as the URD fuel pump kit. Thanks.

 

The FPR mod is NOT for you. Without it you are already overfueling pig rich. If you perform the mod you will step down to ethanol air fuel ratios. You are already close to it as it is actually. You actuslly need to lean out the mixture more. What sort of mods do you have?

 

Wondering how you know how much to trim the snout to accept the hub??

Thinking I'll start with the 2.7, though I'd like to see how it goes with the 2.6. Just concerned what kind of boost I'd see. I wouldn't mind seeing 7lbs on the Mtn, but wouldn't want to exceed 8.5lbs down in Phx.

TRD blower with 2.85 pulley, afe cai, URD lt headers, TRD cat back, oem oil cooler/trans cooler.

 

I believe I shaved off 6 or 7 mm. Basically as long as you take It to the silver part at the snout, you are good to go with good clearance. It takes a while to shave it down but you will never have to do it again. You actually could theoretically fit a pulley as small as 2.0 if you wanted to on there once ground down! (Theoretically) don't do it obviously) lol.

Lean it out. Go with a 2.5 but have a 2.6 or 2.7 handy If you go with the Qwikchange design and if you want to experiment or 2.5 by some odd chance happens to be too much.

At some point it would be wise to upgrade your valve body so it has tighter shifting. It is critical to running high boost on this but if you stay under 8.5 or so you'll be ok. Still advisable, but you'll be decent. This applies if you have an auto.

 

I've looked for a kit for the trans valve body but have not seen one.

As a thought, if the pulley boys can make whatever pulley you request, could they not also hone out the inside diameter of the pulley to match the factory size ID so one doesn't have to trim the snout?

 

That is not an ideal thing to do, as the pulley body is already on the slimmer end due to the fact that the hub makes up most of the body. The pulley could possibly implode if there is less "meat" there per se.

You can always get the kit I did made by RatioTek. It is more simple than the transgo one and very methodically thought out. It also has excellent valve body diagrams and modidication instructions. There are two kits, one for trucks with the blower and one without.

The one you would need is PN: RT-A750E-HD