diff lock actuator

Ok, need some advice. My elocker stopped working, so I attempted to do this rebuild: http://personalpages.tds.net/~thompson_wp/tacoma/locker.htm

The die-cast aluminum cover on the backside of the actuator was so corroded that when I went to pry the actuator off the diff, it broke around the shaft. It is beyond repair.

Toyota dealer quoted me over $1200 for new actuator assembly.

I have searched online parts discounters but no luck.

The auto wreckers, have diffs come in with lockers, problem is they don’t want to take them off the diff and sell them separately. $500 or more for a complete diff. Plus, I can’t be sure they’re working properly, or if I’ll be able to get them off without breaking either. I can’t just swap carriers, I need to the actuator off and put it on my diff because I did a gear swap.

What are people doing who encounter this problem?

Any one out there selling rebuilt actuators?

Any suggestions?

 

I don't believe there is a "rebuilt" actuator available. New or used is ur best bet

 

I would try to talk the places into letting you have the actuator. If they wont let you then I guess you could buy the whole assembly and then sell the carrier? That might work

 

Someone made a cable conversion(downey made it I think) I cant find anything either. I may resort to building my own actuator. I refuse to pay that much for a small motor.

 

Unfortunately Downey went out of business in 2008. I managed to find a near new used actuator in Texas for a reasonable price.

 

Lucky lucky.

Toyota labels this a 'non-servicable' part so they just sell the whole assembly and you cannot get it elsewhere (parts stores) I believe. Good thing you found a used one!

I rebuilt mine last summer because it stopped working. I found crystalised salt on the inside of the casing. Keep an eye on the seal!

 

I'm aware of Toyota's non sevicable description of this part, but as seen in my first post, there is a rebuild, which I attempted to do, but rear cover plate which is made out of die-cast aluminum crumbled as I took it off the diff. And yes, I'm sure road salt had something to do with it.

 

Well, I just broke down and bought the E-Racer from Chilkat designs. I will post up pics when I get it.

 

Sub'd

I want to hear about the E-Racer when you get it installed. Keep us posted please.

 

Anyone lookin for a 1st gen supercharger? Has 40k on it looking to get 1,500 plus shipping

 

Maybe make a thread here:http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1st-gen-tacoma-marketplace/


Probably get better coverage. Be sure to post pic and your location as well.

 

I will but in Florida now so when back from vacation I'll do that

 

Here is a picture an I posted it in the market place

 

Alright, so i got the kit on tuesday and have been waiting for a nice day to do the install. I will be the first to admit that i was a bit worried about the 600 dollar price tag, i mean really? 600 bucks for some aluminum, a cable and a lever? No way. But when i opened the box and saw what they sent, i was really impressed. The whole kit is very well put together.

The hardest part for me was figuring out how to mount the lever and route the cable. I think the lever assembly could be smaller for our already small trucks.

The instructions they send are great. And they tell you that you will end up taking the actuator out several times.......yup. You may get lucky, not likely. When you are trying to rig it all up, it will save a whole lot of time with two people. One to actuate the lever, and one under the truck trying all of the holes and positions on the actuator. i did the whole install in a couple hours. I still have not routed the cable in the cab the way i would like and still have to mount the lever. But all in all it is a really good setup. Everything is solid and not going to break on a whim.

I will poat up pics when i figure it out from my phone.

 

Nice. What does the lever in the cab look like?

 

Like i said, i didn't get around to mounting it yet, but that is where it is going. The cable willgo out the soft plug on the back of the cab. (in the cubby hole)

 

i've been looking to buy a replacement acuator, and had given up. thought i'd give a shot at ripping this one apart and seeing if i could fix it.
when i started to loosen the bolts diff fluid started seeping out, and i wasn't prepared for that; so, tightened them back up.
guys who have done this: should i be expecting to lose and replace a lot of fluid when i take this thing off?

 

anyone?

 

did mine with the diff drained. but i assume you'll loose a little not alot. i would top off afterwards though. Or just drain it and refill when done and enjoy the thought of fresh diff fluid.

Best of luck with the repair, i had to rebuild mine with 2 bad ones. works now though.