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Help! Was sent the wrong U-bolts for my AAL

Discussion in '3rd Gen. Tacomas (2016-2023)' started by jmar180, Nov 10, 2017.

  1. Nov 11, 2017 at 8:10 AM
    #21
    kodaco771

    kodaco771 Well-Known Member

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    6112/5160's & Wheeler's Progressive 3AAL SCS SR8’s
    I ordered my AAL from Wheelers but my U bolts were the same way. I just had to squeeze the ends together to fit them into the holes of that bottom plate. If I remember correctly I used a large set of channel locks. I was able to do it by myself fairly easy.
     
  2. Nov 11, 2017 at 9:19 AM
    #22
    jmar180

    jmar180 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Mine was the Headstrong Brand 3AAL.
     
  3. Nov 11, 2017 at 9:22 AM
    #23
    jmar180

    jmar180 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Alright got them and the rear 5100s installed! Definitely a learning curve for me. Next stupid question: I was expecting about 1.5 inches of lift, the AAL provided 3 inches. Why the disparity? Next up after a little late breakfast are the front 5100s and 885 coils. I'm thinking that'll be a little simpler, but I'm sure I'll be proven wrong shortly.

    IMG_20171111_101250.jpg
     
    BountyOR_VF2 likes this.
  4. Nov 11, 2017 at 9:32 AM
    #24
    jmar180

    jmar180 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Ha! No, I'm paid to think for a living! :rofl:
     
  5. Nov 11, 2017 at 9:34 AM
    #25
    chucklefunkk

    chucklefunkk Well-Known Member

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    Did you keep the overload leaf? If so, you can expect at least a 2" lift in the back.
     
  6. Nov 11, 2017 at 9:39 AM
    #26
    Texoma

    Texoma IG: Triple C Chop Shop

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    A bunch a cool stickers, a bada ass MetalMiller Tx Longhorns grill emblem painted Hemi Orange, JBA long tube headers with o2 sims, Diff breather mod, Red LED interior lights, Fancy head unit that plays ipod n movies, Also DIY install factory stuff like, factory cruise control, factory intermittent wipers, OME nitro struts with 886x springs and toy tec top plate, JBA high caster UCA's for better alignmnet and dey beefier too, Old Man Emu Dakar leaf springs in da rear with the gear, U bolt flipper, Ivan Stewart TRD rims with 33" K Bro 2's, some bad ass weather tech floor liners so I don't muck up my interior, an ATO shackle flipper for mo travel in da rear wit the gear, also super shiny Fox 2.0 shocks back there too, all sorts of steal armor for bouncing off of the rocks like demello sliders, AP front skid, trans skid, n transfer skid, demello gas tank skid, and a tough as nails ARB bumper with warn 8k winch, I'm sure there's more
    They'll settle a bit too, but not more than 1/4-1/2"
     
  7. Nov 11, 2017 at 9:40 AM
    #27
    jmar180

    jmar180 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I did, I saw it was optional, but chose to keep it in. I expected that was the answer. It looked flat, and only about a half inch thick, so I expected it'd only increase by about a half inch. I may go back in there and remove it after I install the front shocks and get a good look at the rake. But with as much of a pain in the ass those leaf springs gave me, I may just leave it in.
     
  8. Nov 11, 2017 at 9:57 AM
    #28
    OnHartung'sRoad

    OnHartung'sRoad -So glad I didn't take the other...

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    I’d leave it in for a little while to see how it goes. Marie (at HS) sent me this info regarding leaving vs taking out the overload leaf when using AAL sets:

    “The single AAL is both thicker and arched more than the initial leaf in the 3 leaf AAL. Though the 3 leaf AAL has more steel overall, the first leaf in the mini pack does not engage as quickly as the single AAL does. In fact the single AAL is arched to a point where it re-arches the existing factory packs upon assembly and thus engages immediately. The 3 leaf AAL has less arch and complies with the arch of the factory packs. So although the first leaf in the 3 leaf AAL will provide some support with the smaller bumps, it won't provide as much as the single AAL will, which translates to a slightly stiffer on-road ride. And as far as the 2nd and 3rd leafs in the 3 leaf AAL, these will only come into play until the factory packs are flexed far enough to engage them. This will happen more so over the bigger bumps or when off-roading. The single leaf provides approx. 1.5"-2" of lift and the 3-leaf provides approx. 1.5" of lift with the factory overload removed and approx. 2" with it retained. The overload does provide function, for when you are over load, so removing it or retaining it can depend on what you use your truck for. If you find yourself hauling or towing a decent amount of weight you may want to keep the overload in to keep the factory pack and add-a-leaf from overflexing. Now the performance and capabilities of any of the add-a-leafs still do rely on the factory leaf pack and its capabilities and wareability.
    Basically, from the feedback I have, the single leaf provides a stiffer ride quality but better initial support of consistent weight and the 3-leaf provides a better ride quality and as more of the leafs are engaged then the weight support comes into play.”
     
  9. Nov 11, 2017 at 10:24 AM
    #29
    BountyOR_VF2

    BountyOR_VF2 "If in doubt, flat out!"

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    That's gonna be my next questions as well..

    and BTW, after the lift then it has to do the alignment, you mean the front alignment has to be readjust? and how to preventing dog tracking?
     
  10. Nov 11, 2017 at 11:43 AM
    #30
    jmar180

    jmar180 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Alright, next question:
    I'm following this video and am at 4:39. I can't for the life of me get the bolts to align to thread into place. What am I doing wrong, they make it look so easy in the video.


    I have a much larger gap, and you can barely see in this photo, the ball joint is rubbing against the disk protecting the brake assembly.
    IMG_20171111_124000.jpg
     
  11. Nov 11, 2017 at 11:47 AM
    #31
    anthony250f

    anthony250f Well-Known Member

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    How do you expect to get the bolt to line up looking like that...?

    Put a jack under the lca and jack it till it’s close...then manipulate the adapter by hand
     
  12. Nov 11, 2017 at 11:56 AM
    #32
    jmar180

    jmar180 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    So that's the opposite of what the video told me to do. And 2) when I try that, it doesn't lift the LCA, it lifts the entire vehicle off the jack stands. Is there just not enough weight to compress the shocks?
     
  13. Nov 11, 2017 at 12:00 PM
    #33
    anthony250f

    anthony250f Well-Known Member

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    The reason why it would lift the truck is because the lca bolts are tight.

    Loosen lca bolts. I’ve done this like a thousand times and getting these lined up can be tricky
     
  14. Nov 11, 2017 at 12:01 PM
    #34
    kodaco771

    kodaco771 Well-Known Member

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    I put a jack under the part of the rotor that sticks out with the bolts coming out and jacked up the wheel assembly (I don’t know the proper names). That made it simple for me to slide the coil over right in.
     
  15. Nov 11, 2017 at 12:03 PM
    #35
    jholc21

    jholc21 Well-Known Member

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    It's a little tricky. Just take your time. put the jack or bottle jack under it to get it close. Get 1st bolt in making sure it's not cross threaded. Tighten for a bit and then you can easily get the 2nd bolt in.
     
  16. Nov 11, 2017 at 12:04 PM
    #36
    jmar180

    jmar180 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Seriously, LCA bolts are as loose as they can get without the nut falling off...
     
  17. Nov 11, 2017 at 12:27 PM
    #37
    anthony250f

    anthony250f Well-Known Member

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    Another trick is to do those two bolts first....then attach the UCA
     

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