Show off your DIY armor!

Here's the only side shot I have. I can take more tomorrow in the daylight though if you'd like?

 

Anyone done rock sliders for a 2nd gen DCLB?

 

Yep

 

Dang. Got some sort of thread post for that. I wanna do a set for my truck, maybe with a 15 degree angle . how long did it take? Cost? OH GOD I NEED ANSWERS

 

Yep. https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...sh-i-had-more-time-for-wheeling-build.435998/ I'm not very good at detailing all the info. Feel free to ask any questions you don't find answers to. I think between fab time and install I have like 12 ish hours into the sliders.

 

I build them all the time. If you have any questions you can PM me about tnem

 

Definitely going to take you up on that.

 

How well did the Millermatic 140 do welding up the sliders? I'm about to pull the trigger on 4xinnovations sliders and a Lincoln Weldpak 140HD and was wondering if a 120V machine would be enough to get good penetration on the frame plates. I was going to just use the flux core because my understanding is that it gets better penetration than using a shielding gas.

 

You got some SERIOUSLY wrong information. Not trying to bash whoever you got your info from, but flux core penetration is crap at best, and very very messy porous (weak) welds. Also a 120v machine isn't going to get you very good amperage, a standard 120v outlet is only 15 amps, the higher the amps the hotter the arc the more penetration you will have. A 240v outlet (dryer oven outlet) is usually at least 60 amps, two 30amp breakers two 120v phases. For single phase 240v Pole to pole. Also a 120v welder is going to have a crap duty cycle you will quickly burn out.

I HIGHLY recommend buying a 240v gas sheilded mig, and if that's too expensive you're better off teaching yourself to stick than buying a 120v flux mig.

If you're just doing hobby/decorative/small weld projects flux might be okay, but armour sliders and anything 1/8" or thicker you're best off with a 240v.

I love my 240v Lincoln ProMig 180. Bought it as a scratch and dent new in box $500.

 

Gas is better than no gas, with that being said fluxcore will work just fine. Welding on your sliders with a 110v machine is also fine.3/16-1/4" is the top of the range for a 110 machine so you will be pushing the machine hard. Most machines in that range want a 30 amp circuit,without it you be tripping the breaker every few minutes of continuous welding.

 

I wouldn't hesitate to get a 240V unit but I currently don't have access to 240V and probably won't for a very long time as I will be moving around for the next 10 years or so with the Airforce. I know the duty cycle is crap at best when you're pushing a 120V (20amp) unit to it's max but I guess I will just have to take my time in between welds.

Also, I read on Miller and Lincoln's websites that the flux core gets better penetration per given amperage than the gas. And since I will be maxing out this little unit I would think the flux core would work better for me?? I also saw some mixed information regarding that on a lot of the welding forums though. I guess either way the flux should at least be good enough but just a little more spatter.

Here is what I read on the company websites that raised the question in my mind. I'm not trying to start an argument but I genuinely want to understand why they state this.

 

It did okay once it got some heat in the metal. I ran a real wide weld with half moons and it got hot enough to glow through on the backside.

 

Flux core is for rusty dunptruck beds on a windy day. It will work, and there are plenty of rigs built with it. But I'd go with either a stick or a MIG over flux core for building truck parts.

You'll get about 30% duty cycle at full power with 29v welder, but it will work.

 

Fellas,

I'm having a hard time finding shackle mounts with anything other than 1" holes. Seems nice and bulky, but then I can barely find d rings that actually fit that size bore.

Does anyone know where I could score some shackle mounts that would have a 3/4" bore instead of a full 1"? I've looked through Amazon and google quite a bit, but have found only 1 vendor with a smaller bore size. Barnes4wd.

AtoZ fabrications, Ruff Stuff, and a number of others are all 1" holes.

Id like the bore and the pin to be the same size and avoid side loading the pin....

 

I'm new to the welding game myself, but I also was under the impression that flux core gave a bit more penetration, as well as using C02 over an Argon mix. Others can chime in to clarify.

Make sure you hit the Anything Welding thread on here. lots of gurus.

I can also tell you that I feel like i've already maxed out my 220v lincoln 180 welding on sliders and building a smoker. So buy as big of a welder as you can manage.

 

As with any welding stick mig tig... Joint preparation is the most important thing. I welded my whole truck with 110v 75/25 mixture. Everything got beveled or preheated before I welded it. If you can its a good idea to leave a little gap when welding as well, about 1/16 of an inch or so. Hope that helps

 

@Urineovrurhead made the tailgate and HC rear!

 

Those racks look awesome!

 

Got anymore photos? I've been thinking about do that exact same thing.