Ecgs bushing install

Thanks! To clarify, it's not the actual bushing but the seal for the carrier right? Probably dumb question

 

Use them and sell them!

 

The PVC coupler is designed to assist with the seal only. It's the perfect size to drive it in uniformly.

This is another good post about how everything should look, which I believe the poster corrected his error with the seal.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...l-leaking-diff-help-now-with-solution.499972/

There are no dumb questions , there are like 10 people watching this thread that probably have the same question.

If you go back to do it. Keep the questions coming.

 

Just for the seal!!

 

This

After it's done and the truck isn't vibrating. Report back

 

I had a Toyota master tech install mine. He jacked up the drivers side and left the passenger side grounded (obviously using jack stands for safety). He told me it keeps the fluid from leaking out and presents the bearing at a better angle to work on.

 

quick question there is a lip on one side and not on the other (ecgs bushing) which side goes in and which side is out?

 

The side with the steal lip goes out, your install too will drive, contact that steal lip as you tap it in.

 

Cool, good info, need. To have mine installed, it's not vibrating, that I've noticed but an ounce of prevention....

 

yeah i so need to get this done.

 

The key to using a prybar to get the cv axle out, is to pry with one arm, while sort of pulling on the axle with the other to help straighten it out so your not putting side load pressure on the c-clip and shaft (kind of trying to keep the axle centered while prying). Try that, and it should come right out without much fuss. I nearly gave up as well, until I realized what was happening with just prying; after that, it popped out pretty easily. I've since done a couple more in the same way.

 

Heading to ECGS tomorrow to get this done and they’re gonna see what they think is causing the howling differential as they’ve not had their hands on one to diagnose.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/cant-get-the-f-front-axle-back-in-update-its-done.471161/

It was a PITA to get the axle back in for me.....check out my solution in that thread. I used a 2x4 to keep it level and it went right in with some smacks from the sledge.

 

I installed the bushing a few days ago. I installed a new seal with a seal driver. I didn’t like the way the driver fit the seal but I used it anyway. The next day I noticed the axle seal was leaking. I wiped it down and checked it the following morning. Definitely the cv axle seal. I figured I messed it up while installing it so I installed another seal with lots of grease and used a PVC coupler that fit perfect. I exercised more care the second time when installing a double check the seal was all the way in with equal spacing all around. That was two days ago. Today was the first time I drove freeway speeds and I noticed a leak after the drive.

Is it normal for the front diff to leak a little after a seal and fluid change? I’m not sure what to do.

 

If it was just a very small amount, and you haven't seen any since, it could have just been some small little pools of oil on the shaft/baffles or just outside the seal.

Otherwise, if it's still leaking, I would contemplate if perhaps you might have put the seal in backwards, or potentially damaged it while re-installing the axle shaft.

 

easy way to remove is pack dry ice in there wait an hour comes out with out a puller watched it done amazed me

 

I just did mine today. I pray to the Tacoma God's that it doesn't leak or vibrate because I really don't want to mess with this again.

What a disaster.

 

To remove the cv I used a screw driver and a few swing of the sledge hammer and the assembly came out. Removing the bushing wasn't difficult besides aligning the tool where I broke the ring of the bushing but no other issues. Installing the new bushing was very painful. The a coupler of some type to hammer in the bushing would be ideal. Used a combination of impact sockets to hammer in... painful. With the limited space and tight fit took about 30 mins of beating to finally align the new busing flush. To install the CV took quite a bit more force but is easier to just smack the opposite CV shaft. The tolerance is significantly different almost 1/8" of slop in the needle bushing with absolute no slop with the ecg bushing.

 

I am not looking forward to doing this install.

30min of hammering does not sound like fun.

 

It's usually not that bad. Putting the bushing in the freezer (or in some dry ice) first can help, as it will shrink it ever so slightly. A little grease around the bushing doesn't hurt either.