What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

I had a question a few weeks ago about fitting 16" steel spares over Tundra 13WL calipers when I was doing the big brake upgrade. I found that some do fit, but I didn't have the details. Now, I have those, so I thought I'd share them.

I have two different types of 16" steel spares on loan from @drr - one type fits over the Tundra 13WL calipers, the other doesn't:

Fits:

• label stamped in wheel: J 16X7 JJ DOT CMC 10 01 HM 31
• backspacing: 4 3/4" strong (so 4 3/4+)
• identifiable (for me) via all holes being round

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Doesn't fit (backspacing pushes the wheel too far in, interfering with the brakes and front suspension):

• label stamped in wheel: J 16X7 JJ DOT CMC 9 10 WT 14
• backspacing: 5 3/8"
• identifiable (for me) via one oval hole near the valve stem

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THE BASTARD CAME OFF!!!

That cheap harbor freight tool set was the best $30 I have ever spent. I welded the 1/2 inch drive wrench to the Bolt and welded the everliving hell out of it. They're so cheap they didn't even have any coating or plating on it so it worked to my advantage - nothing to burn off. I heated up the surrounding area with a torch too so that helped.





Now what sucks is the damn manual jackshaft doesn't even fit! The ADD shaft uses a gear drive while the manual tube uses a shaft with splines. Anyone know how to make it work?

 

Good info. Luckily the wheels with 5 3/8" BS are 2nd gen spares so shouldn't affect too many of us.

 

the add stub can be pryd out.

 

@BartMaster1234 this ^^^^

 

No snap ring or anything? I just pry it out?

 

Take a look at this thread: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f120/front-differential-swap-auto-manual-hubs-246850/

From what they have said you should be able to just pop that gear out and the manual hub will fit directly into the diff.

 

Looks like the stub shaft has a circlip on the end but it would be like a CV, just pull till it lets go.

 

Sharing as I just watched this last week (fast forward to 30:32)

 

Thanks guys! You all have been a huge help. I'll see what I can do.

 

Just finished first oil change on the new rig. At 195k and I'm pretty sure it's been on conventional it's whole life, went with Mobil1 High Mileage and it feels a lot smoother already! Now who the heck decided to put that oil filter where it is.

 

Well after all that hard work with the stripped Bolt, the front differential isn't even the right gear ratio. I counted 41 teeth on the ring hear and 10 teeth on the pinion. 41/10 is 4.10 - my truck has 4.30 in the rear.

Should I buy a front differential with 4.30 gears, or replace the rear differential with a locking 4.10 one?

 

Locker!!

 

Would the 4.30 or the 4.10 be better on fuel economy? Or whatever ratio I'll be honest I know jack diddly squat about gearing.

 

Only thing I’d be concerned about is the 4.10 no providing enough ratio paired with the 2.7

 

You’re going to want all the gear you can get. What size tires will you be running?

 

Currently running LT265/75/R16

What's a good ratio for these tires while keeping fuel economy high?

 

As I recall, @Speedytech7 had a set of 4.30 gears he might be willing to part with. You've already got the front apart, I'd slam the lower ratio gears in and try to get some power back from that 2.7.

 

Yeah I’d say this is the smarter choice.

 

So keep the 4.30 already on the truck and swap the 4.10 out?