Shim packs for the carrier bearing?

New information, when I apply the brakes, there is a vibration that continues until it comes to a complete stop BUT, if I put the truck into neutral and brake, smooth as silk. what does this tell us?


I have a 3" lift on my truck, pretty inexpensive kit with leaf spring blacks in the back, etc etc.
All the proper shimming was done to the front differential etc.
But the drive shaft angle is obviously off a bit to the rear differential.
I complained to the dealer that there was a slight vibration only when braking and coming to a stop. The dealers answer is its the lift kit and drive line angel and I am "feeling the u-joints".

I have fixed this type of thing myself over the years with my jeeps and such by measuring the angle and getting it close by shimming the bearing down and getting it plenty close.

The 4-WD shop that did the work told me the angle was not bad enough to worry about when I first had it installed and there is NO vibration on the highway.

SO I was planning on just doing the same thing and shimming it down a bit.
I tired it yesterday and installed about 1/4" of shims to shim it down.
I rant it and found that to have NO affect on the vibration.

But my real question is this, using washers to shim it down is a little bit half ass.
Someone told me they make shim kits for this that are more like a small block, larger and matches up with the bracket size and is a better more substantial fit.

Anyone heard of this?

 

Tell us what you have for a lift, take out the diff drop up front as it does nothing for our 2nd and 3rd Gen Tacoma's. So lets start with the actual lift first, what is it?

 

Hope you get it figured out. My 07' had a horrid vibration when braking. Tried everything I possible could to get it to stop and never did find a proper solution.

 

Its a cheap ebay kit, here is the link to it:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2005-2017-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

On a side note, always trying to learn here but, the shop told and the ebay seller agreed the differential drop was needed to correct front drive line issues, your saying no. Please tell me more. This is a subject I would like to know more about. I though I had the front end of this thing whipped.

 

You spent all that money on a beautiful truck and sorry put that garbage on it?

 

@T4RFTMFW James you are better at this stuff can you explain to him why our 2nd and 3rd Gen Tacoma's don't need the diff drop.

 

Fuck if I know. I had a Prerunner.

 

Thank You sir

 

@nd4spdbh you must know about this stuff

 

so we are going to leave it there? You make a statement that the differential drop is not needed in contrast with what the parts kit seller AND the 4wd shop that installed it said but have no explanation as to why?

Dude I'm happy to give you the benefit of the doubt and as I explained I want to learn more, but you cant just leave it like that?

 

Google Search brought up some reading material for you. I have had 4 or maybe 5 2nd gen's and never did a diff drop as to me and many others it is useless

https://www.google.com/search?q=dif...ome..69i57.17773j0j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

 

Did you put shims/spacers under the center carrier? That's the easiest and cheapest place to start, then at the leaf spring-axle if you have to.

But, if it only happens while braking, wouldn't bad brake rotors be the leading cause?

 

Its not a brake rotor type feeling, not a warp warp warp feel as it comes to a stop. Usually they feel kind of in and out but this is a constant vibration only when getting close to stopping and hauling it down

 

Does it happen in 4 Wheel Drive as it could be the Needle Bearing issue they get after lifting.

 

The weak ass springs are loading up causing the pinion to dive down; ruins the pinion angle resulting in vibration. Blocks, especially tall ones, are notorious for amplifying this effect.
Try putting some spring clamps around the forward part of the leafs, to reinforce the mainspring, and see if you notice any difference.
You can try addressing angles; but what good does that do, if the angles change under loading or unloading of the springs.

Surprised you don't mention a clunk or thud while stopping...

 

Carrier bearing adjusment shouldn't really be needed unless it's off from the factory. This basically tries to mimic a one-piece with two standard u-joints by zeroing the center working angle. Thing is you'll never get it down far enough without serious binding in the carrier bearing.

On a 2-piece with 3 standard u-joints, the transfer case/forward u-joint working angle is zeroed, while the center and pinion working angles should be equal to cancel each other.

Don't know what kind of driveshaft you are used to on Jeeps...
If it had a double-cardan/CV; that's different set up too...

 

So your saying that when you appply the breaks, the differential noses down? and this is the opposite of the diff going up when accelerating?? I'm confused but either way, I would buy into your weak spring issues for sure. Does anyone know where you can get spring clamps made just for our spring sizes??

 

guys, new info.
The vibration I Have been having when braking, goes away completely if I put the truck into Neutral when coming to a stop and braking??

 

When and how often does it occur?