Free Wheel Manual Hubs Conversion

SOLD OUT

Alleviate parasitic energy losses and boot wear!
ABS/Speed sensors unaffected
2016+ Tacoma bearings, boots and seals for serviceability





***Detailed instructions included***


@cjsqueeky install video


Install notes to stress:​

1. Do not forget to grease the hub roller bearings.
2. Keep the wheel bearing magnetic ring and sensor located in the steering knuckle bore clean and free of grease.
   
3. Tap the adapter into the steering knuckle and then install the seal, to minimize risk of damaging seal.
4. When installing the Aisin free wheel hubs, do not forget to install the bolt-with-washer into the end of the CV stubs before reinstalling the dial covers.

 

Complete Genuine Toyota axles with custom outer joints
$954


Your choice of Genuine Toyota or aftermarket hubs
Both include Genuine Toyota parts and NSK bearings

$696
Genuine Toyota Hubs


or

$396
Aftermarket Hubs


Side-by-side comparison
Genuine Toyota on left


*** User supplied or optional purchase***
Aisin Free wheel hubs with attaching hardware
Includes stainless acorn nuts
$330



Shipping CONUS
$60

I accept Venmo or Zelle
​

OrangeCrash

 

Man that's a awesome option.

 

This kit looks great.

What happens when the wheel bearing hub assembly wears out. Is it a custom unit or a readily available part?

 

It uses a 2nd/3rd Gen bearing.

 

Very cool!

 

This is on my list!

 

If you are affected by the annoying vibrations/growling noises caused by CV axles turning while in 2WD, this will solve it. There will be no need for a ECGS bushing or to replace your front differential needle bearing.

 

Tempting!

 

Will the hubs work with OEM 3rd gen wheels, or do they require a larger center?

 

They work with OEM, no problem

 

Am I missing something? ECGS bushing is $60. Even with all the tools and seal it's still only $180. Is this really $1200?

I remember having to jump out in the mud and freezing cold to turn the hubs with numb fingers to engage 4by. That was a pain in the ass. Why would I do that again?

How much mpg improvement are you seeing?

 

The bearing issue isn’t the selling point, just one of many points to make.
I wouldn’t wait to turn the dials, most turn before they leave home and engage 4WD (t-case) when needed. Depending on where you live, that could mean leaving locked all winter.
I converted from a PreRunner to 4wd, using a FJ Cruiser manual t-case (I have 5-speed) and I’m seeing same mpg as before- I believe Toyota advertised 3 mpg difference between 2wd and 4x4.

 

The VAST majority of the cost is the Toyota hub/bearing assemblies. There’s no alternative for the hub, and I’m not going cheap on the bearing. This is a QUALITY kit at barely more than cost. This current price is basically giving it away at cost to get a few in the wild for review. Don’t miss out on this price

 

How do you bypass the A.D.D.?

 

A.D.D. Actuator Delete
http://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/534480/#post-17168333

 

Nvm

 

Automatic Disconnecting Differential


An electric motor known as the "Actuator", attached to the passenger side differential tube, disconnects the passenger side shaft from the differential while in 2WD and connects it while in 4WD; it accomplishes this by sliding a splined sleeve, as seen in the drawing above.
This means that both CV Axles and the front diff spin while in 2WD, but due to being an open diff the front drive shaft doesn't spin.

 

Seriously? Who does that?

If you knew it was freezing where you would potentially need 4wd, why wouldn't you just lock them prior to this?

This argument came up years ago between the Ford/Dodge guys and the GM guys. The GM guys said the same thing about not having the "difficulties" having to get out and lock their hubs and falling on the ice doing so, to justify their auto hubs.

 

Just curious if this has been tested on a 3rd gen yet? Only reason I’m asking is because of trouble codes and lights. Doesn’t seem like the actual modification of the outer stubs and hubs would trip a code....unless the hubs contain a VSS or something? But removing the ADD actuator seems like it would surely throw a code.