Subway4X3 Shameless Copycat Build

Maybe double check the driver rear wires/sensor. Then there should be instructions in the toyota nation link on how to check the codes on how to clear the codes. Clear the codes and take the truck for a drive to see if the lights come back. There could have been a fluke thing that happened that the computer didn't like and it threw a code but there isn't actually a permanent problem.

 

Codes won't clear with the procedure outlined in Toyota Nation link.

Tried three times.

 

I never messed with anything under the dash.

It was good when I jacked the front, changed out the tophats.

I also brought the height adjustment rings on the Billies to the highest notch (5th notch.) It was previously on the second highest notch (4th notch.)
Did this possibly affect anything?

Edit: I might have completely confused the VSC Computer by adding height by increasing the Billie height adjustment AND not having the 100# 1/4" IFS installed during this process.

I'm gonna re-install skid and try this VSC clearing and calibration procedure.

 

You have a reliable source or reference to your assertion Joe? When I researched my front spring/shock combo, I made the decision to acquire based on the fact that I can bring the lift height higher or lower using all the available notches. If you have a reliable source, please provide, so I can re-think my options. Thanks.

Also, the 700# Eibach coils are same length as the original Billie supplied springs.

 

^^^^^^
I remember something to this effect also.

 

Those r dumm.
I haz aluminium thingies on the top of mines

 

Height should only effect CDC while moving around a turn. Other than that the computer has know idea how high the truck is. If this was the case every time you jacked the truck up or had it on a lift it would throw a code

 

^^ment vsc lol

 

Yea but the issue with high lifts and it triggering vsc is a problem going around turns at speed and the yaw sensor thinking all hell is breaking loose. Once through the turn it all goes back to normal and wouldn't be triggered in the driveway. Lloyd's problem is a definite issue with the abs

 

I think you are talking about Bilstein 5100's. They do not come with coils. They use the factory coils or the OME series i.e. 884, 885, etc. I sold these long ago.

The Bilstein 6112's that I currently have already came with coils. They are NOT factory coils. Those new coils are stored in my attic, still sealed in the box.

I got the same length coils, just higher spring rate, to deal with the bumpers/2nd battery and winch.

The lift height remained essentially the same on the DS. When I replaced the tophat, I deleted the 1/4" "lean spacer" and increased to 5th notch from 4th. Net lift = ~0

I replaced my previous 5100's @5th notch with these B6112's with no ABS VSC dash light issues.

I've been running these 6112's with 700# coils for over a year with no ABS VSC dash light issues.

I'm headed in the direction of me messing up an ABS sensor wire somehow somewhere.

I could be wrong tho.

 

Steve - after numerous attempts of jumping the pins and trying to clear the codes, I finally got the ABS light to show only one pattern:
Flash one, two, three, pause, one.

This confirms the Front Passenger ABS Sensor or Sensor Wire problem correct?

I'll order an ABS Sensor and Sensor Wire from Camelback.

In the meantime, I should be OK for some light wheeling this weekend, since I turn off the ABS anyway when I wheel.

 

Yes 31 is passenger front and yes you should be fine without abs. IMO I prefer to not have it but that's another debate

 

Thanks!

 

Fluid Film application done!

Took about 40 minutes on the truck, 15 minutes each on the RAV4 and the Prius.



I bought the FF "Pro" sprayer model plus the optional Air Pressure regulator and 16" straight wand.

If I did it over again, I would not buy the options because the 24" and 36" wands worked just fine. And I was pressure regulated at the Compressor/Tank.

 

Wheeling is fun. Camping is fun.

But gear cleanup at home is a giant chore.

This is known by everybody: Gotta re-pitch the tent, awnings, EZ-ups, giant umbrellas to dry it all up and then store, ready for the next trip.




But here is an idea that I'd like to share, if you own the grill version or similar:

Buy the cheap disposable aluminum rectangle pan lid at the dollar store, cut a slit at both ends to make room for the burner tubes, and use it to line your clean grill/burner area.

Feel free to spill shit while heating or grilling stuff at camp.

When you get home, pull the disposable liner, re-line, and voila! A clean camp stove/grill ready for next trip.



Might be possible to line the burner area of a regular camp stove. Just haven't tried it.

This might've helped @ProjectTgen3 when his crockpot pot exploded all over @EatSleepTacos camp stove.

 

Yeah, these things are way thicker and sturdier. Five for a buck at the dollar store.

 

I forgot about that. I need to pull my stove out tonight and finish cleaning it, and fire it up.

 

It should be fine.
If it doesn't fire up immediately, I would leave the stove lid open and let everything air dry for a day or so.
Then give it another try.
If it fails, go find @ProjectTgen3 and kick his ass.

 

I don't clean or dry anything