Body Mount Bushing Install - now with pictures! And a video too!!!

I’m leaning towards ordering the whole kit, replacing just the rad mounts for now, and giving these universal ones to someone who wants to try to make them work

 

This stuff for DIY bushing of the bed...

 

I see. Let us know how that goes lol

 

I did large washer small poly on top. No issues, maybe flip the poly.

 

No issues so far.

$28 UHMW (Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene) Sheet, Opaque White, Standard Tolerance, ASTM D4020, 3/16" Thickness, 12" Width, 24" Length

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ILHVZS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Ugh <3

 

Flipping the bushings fixed my issue.

From top to bottom I have new OEM bolt with captured washer, body, big washer, small poly, frame, big poly, small washer, new OEM nut.

 

Glad that worked out as you hoped it would!

 

Thanks again.

Driven about 500 miles so far since i flipped them and things are just fine

 

Sorry to ask without looking elsewhere, but I am almost done & losing light. Torque specs for the body mounts? 34? '01 4x4 - energy suspension

 

Second gen is 34. I can't see why it would be different for first gen

 

Thank you. Didn't quite get there though. This mechanic that did it first screwed it up. I knew he put the bushings in the wrong positions when I started the re-do, however I have discovered additional things he messed up. & the last one I found took much time to dismantle & then I figured I better call it a day before I started making stupid errors (& it was getting cold)....

 

So frustrating

Sounds like some good decision making on your part though.

I had two severely sprained wrists from a mountain bike accident last year and had a mechanic install my Dakar leaf springs before a road trip. I crawled under to inspect his work and found the leaf springs were backwards. Ugh

 

So I have one side done. I am not thrilled with how much the cab & bed are still off (cab is lower) & although I got a bit more clearance, cab to frame, behind position 2, it's still pretty skimpy. I have read this whole thread & am still looking for clarification on flipping them. This seems to work for some & not others. I get that. It's really up to the truck. I have the energy suspension kit. Position 2 has a thicker top bushing than 3 & a thinner bottom bushing than 3 (may be this way in all kits, not sure). If I was to flip them, would it not make sense to switch the mount meant for position 2 to the 3rd position? I mean there must be a reason for the instructions having the thicker upper bushing being in position 2, correct?

 

I'm confused about position 2 $ 3...not sure what you mean. The gen 2 kit comes with 2 bushings per mount. A thick one and a thin one. They are all the same. I chose to put the thick one on top for all of the mounts to get some body lift. The directions say to mount the thin bushing in top. Again, this is for second gen Tacos. I don't know how gen 1 trucks differ.

 

Ok. Well the pic I posted is the position 2 (left) & 3, 1st gen. Apparently there is a method behind the madness for why the overall height of mount 2 & 3 are the same, yet the individual bushings are varied in height. Position 2, the one on the left, if installed per directions, would have a thicker top bushing than position three, but a thinner bottom bushing. Again, why? Wish I knew right about now because in my logical, yet thoroughly confused mind, since "they" seem to want a thicker bushing for position 2 top, than position 3 top, if I were to flip the mounts as is, this would no longer be the end result. With the bottom bushings on top as is, position 2 would be thinner than position 3. If I switched the mounts & put position 2 in the 3 position, it would then be the thinner top mount, which seems to be what energy suspension wants for the 1st gen. & I am not sure that made any more sense or if I just stated the same thing just using more words. I routed around in the first gen & online with no luck. I was tired though.
If I were to flip these & switch the positions, there is the difference in the space between the bushings. Position 3 cannot be hand compressed to where it shows no metal, as can position 2. While I understand the frame would be taking up that space, again method behind the madness? I suppose though, if I were to flip, whether I switched positions or not, the bottom ones can be easily-er played with later.

 

To flip or not to flip.

I still need to check how mine is doing with plate bumper and stretching fences.

 

I think I understand. When talking about position 2&3, you mean the body mounts and how they're labeled on the schematic, right? Position 2 is at the front of the floor board and position 3 is the rear of the cab.

I'm guessing the body mounts must not be level along the length of the frame. I see the challenge you are up against. I would suggest swapping 2&3 and flipping them if you want the body lift. As far as the metal bushings, are they same size or are they different lengths for each mount location?

 

There are three sizes. 2 radiator, 2 middle, 2 back. So hmmmm, I guess I might have to look at that as well. The two in the middle are 2.275. Back are 1.96.
Regardless, the metal you can see in the position 3 mount is not the sleeve. It is the part of the top bushing itself.

Middle rear top bushings - note difference in metal height


It makes no dif if it is on the middle bottom bushing


Or rear bottom bushing, that space is there.


It is not there for the middle top bushing when it is paired with either bottom bushing.



Question is why is it there & will that matter if I switch the entire mount to position 2 - middle?
I am not necessarily expecting you to have the answer, although that would awesome, do much as hmmmm.... ing. Now I suppose if I need to make sure the 2.275 sleeve is in the middle, well, that's sort'a going to delegate where things go. Eh?

 

Sounds like you're on track. It was much less complicated on my gen 2, but still a PITA job to do.

Also, I have the large puck on top for my radiator bushings.