Malburg114's 3Link go fast SAS

So with that said. What's a good price to list my front axle for. Would be the front housing trussed and armored and boxed steering stops. Can include the steering linkage, u bolts, u bolt plates and rcv inner shafts with some used birfields. Only down side is the knuckle balls either need to be cut and turned, spring perches re welded or you need to keep running the shims I have in there now.


And would anyone be interested in my rear axle lol. 4.88s. E locker. Trussed. Armored. Has all the mounts to keep the stock brakes. Set up for shocks on the rear.

 

80 shafts are different lengths. They take up almost zero room, I just stuff them behind the tool box between the box and the bed wall. With it being a full floater you can blow a shaft and still drive it off the trail, or even home. So in your case just leave them in the tow rig. If I'm doing a day trip to my "local" park (3hrs away) I don't even take them since I'll just drive the truck home with one rear shaft.

 

Snag a nice Dewalt bit and it’s not bad drilling out your hubs. I’m 7/16 both front and rear with no problems after using a new bit and a nice tap for the cast iron. I got away without using a drill press too.

I sold my rear axle in like 2 days on here when I started thinking down this path too. 5.29’s with an ARB for like $1350, more than covered my new FZJ80 build since I went Spartan and a friend installed the gears.

 

Did you just use a regular hex head bolt with a washer or do an allen? Im planning on doing it while I have the axle torn down to swap everything over and to be able to do it on the drill press since ive been having trouble with the studs coming loose.

 

I think a front axle housing is worth a couple bills to the right guy if it’s straight too

 

An Allen (socket head cap screw with lock washer) is the way to go, the shank is a little bigger than a hex head bolt and makes sure there’s no movement. I had to go to Fastenal to find the 7/16 in fine thread was the biggest pain of the whole thing

 

Im pretty sure its straight. Axle shafts slide in no problem.

Good to know on. Figured it would have to be a socket head. What is the weak point after this is done? The hub gears?

 

My only break has been an OG Longfield. Chromo hub gears and a V6 8” have been fine

 

Similar setup. RCV's with their chromo hub gears and a 4cyl 8" diff. Ill have to pick up the bit and tap and get the right bolts and try to knock it out.

 

If you’re like me, everything gets sent via Amazon

Irwin Tools 2640- 3 Piece High Carbon Steel - Tap 7/16"- 20 NF

$23 IRWIN TAP 7/16"-20NF 3PC SET"

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003K15EP2?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Bosch CO2152 25/64 In. x 5-1/8 In. Cobalt Drill Bit

$12 BOSCH CO2152 1-Piece 25/64 In. x 5-1/8 In. Cobalt Metal Drill Bit for Drilling Applications in Light-Gauge Metal, High-Carbon Steel, Aluminum and Ally Steel, Cast Iron, Stainless Steel, Titanium

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AESUJ4?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

 

Sounds good. Ill try lowes first since they should have it and hopefully the local ace has the bolts.

 

Besides the more material with the 7/16s, whats the the upside of doing this? Did you guys never upgrade the stock studs to Arps? With the 7/16s your getting the clamping force the Arps already deliver.

 

Also gets rid of the cone washers and should be significantly cheaper than arp studs. And is supposed to be stronger from the looking I've done.

 

Lots of guys on pirate used to do it with good success it looks like. Some swear by arp. Some by the new studs which I know has been mentioned and some swear by the 7/16. I just hate having to re torque these things every time along with the knuckle studs.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyota-truck-4runner/706547-7-16th-locking-hub-bolts-4.html

 

Starting to come together. Ran into a few small problems but should be done next week.

 

You forgot to link it

 

I seriously considered it.... these leaf springs are a pain. Maybe when I need new springs lol

 

Plus approach angle

 

My approach angle is actually pretty good right now with 37s. Sometimes drag the bumper but if I come in at a slight angle it works. Wouldn't mind pushing the axle a little farther foward though. Nor sure how much the steering would allow before they come together though. Always something lol

 

Full hydro, shorter radiator, cut the frame, 40's. You'd be set haha