Passenger door unlock with Smart Key

Where are you getting the schematics, from a service manual?

 

From the looks of it, we should be OK tapping into C29-3 & C29-4. The only issue might be if it raises the resistance of the circuit too high. Seems there are limits based on the service manual.


@helix66 - It's post #4 https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2016-tacoma-service-manual-availability-pdf.485229/

 

Thanks @96ti......luckily I have a work pc, oddly it didn't do anything on my mac!

 

Got the handle wired up and tapped into C29-3 (Green) & C29-4 (blue) - neither handle works.
Tried switching the wires from the passenger handle and still no luck.
Seems like the driver door/smart key un/lock becomes disabled when too much resistance is added inline.
Keyfob still works fine the entire time though.

 

this was my fear...

 

Measured the resistance of the wire + connectors I used - 22ga stranded wire @ ~6ft, posi tap, and random 22ga connector = 0.8ohms.

I'm not an electromagician but I see this as being difficult to get around, hence your fear.

 

I believe it's actually called convenience...

 

I wonder what would happen if you wired them in series instead of parallel.

 

Been following this thread for a while. Has anyone made any further progress or is the resistance problem insurmountable?

 

I created my account just to follow up on this. I was in my dealership earlier today and asked the guy at the “store” part of the shop if this was possible and he said no, but of course I’m not of the belief that those guys always know what they are talking about. There is a “customs” shop inside the dealership and I asked them as well and they said they couldn’t do it. Again, he put zero effort into actually looking into it so I remain hopeful. I feel like this thread is my last hope at getting a smart key handle on the passenger door.

For you guys that are savy enough to work on this, I commend you. You have a fan in me. Please let us know if it is possible and thank you for your work.

 

I gave up and returned my part.

Wiring in series would make resistance higher than parallel.

 

I'm still gonna take a crack at it when I have some free time.

 

I haven’t dug into the truck to find the cpu that controls the door locks system, but when I did the research for the Lexus Key card it appears there are multiple ports on the cpu for multiple door handles, including passenger side and possibly a rear hatch (though that wouldn’t be something that would work on a Taco) the cpu part number is the same as for the highlander). If these ports are there like I think they are, we should be able to plug into a port specifically for the passenger door lock.

Getting the door handle is the easy part, the wiring harness and plugs is another story.

I haven’t had the time to dig in yet, but I should in a couple weeks.

 

Might not be that weird. RAV4 is a 'soccer mom' demographic, so opening from passenger door makes more sense than from the 'guy' segment. Plus, better lighting for mom to drive with. Tacoma is primarily a 'guys' vehicle, so the better head unit fits the demographic. I'd guess that men are more likely to use GPS than women, but could be wrong there. One thing's for sure, Toyota thought long and hard about what choices they made. Those choices have 1) annual financial return in mind, and 2) long term brand loyalty in mind, and 3) customer wishes and desires. As for what order, I'm not sure.

 

I hope you guys can figure this out.

 

Anyone had any luck on this putting together a passenger door smart lock?

 

Keep an eye on this thread, I suspect you’ll hear some news soon

 

Sorry I haven’t been on in a while, it’s been a busy couple of weeks, when I posted above I was thinking I’d be able to repost again in a day or two with good news. Unfortunately though I thought I had it all worked out, I still didn’t have any luck.

While it didn’t work, any information may help in those who are working to solve this.

I found that the Highlander seems to share the same CPU for the Smart Key system, so I looked in the wiring diagrams and found that on the Highlander the wiring for the passenger door handle goes to the same connector on the CPU as the drivers side (C29), but instead of pins 3&4, it goes to pins 1&2. Specifically pin 6 on the handle runs to pin 1, and pin 4 on the handle runs to pin 2. Those pins are in the CPU, but the connector does not have wiring or the female terminals in it.
I thought perfect I’ll order those terminals as well as the handle and the connector for the handle and those terminals, and this should all work. The terminals come with a short pigtail of 22 gauge wire, which I soldered to 24 gauge speaker wire.
Unfortunately once all was installed, the new smart handle acted just like the old dumb handle, in other words I didn’t work. I even tried leaving a key on the drivers side while I tried the passenger side.

I haven’t had a chance to pull that CPU out and crack it open, it could be that the pins don’t go anywhere once they are in the box, but my best guess is we need some reprogramming.

 

You're doing god's work, son.

 

I'd be willing to chip in some $$ to aid in R&D. Fully understanding that I am not paying for the product, just for the attempted results. I know this costs you guys money.