2013 A/C Compressor shaft seal.

I have a 2013 Double Cab 78,000 miles and 4.0 engine. Went to turn on the AC today and nothing but warm air. Popped the hood and found dye residue all over the clutch and pulley.
I have been searching for the easiest way to remove the compressor. So far it looks like it has to come out through the drivers side wheel well.
Anybody performed this repair? If so please give me some tips. What else do I need besides a dryer and the compressor for parts. Thanks for any help.

 

You have an interesting problem because there are few spare parts available for the compressor so plan on a new one. The Rock Auto Denso is the OEM one and so is the Delphi.
Your truck has no receiver or dryer that is a separate part, they are part of the condenser.
I like as much space a possible and probably do excessive parts removal but going in through the wheel well is best and will come out that way. You can always remove the battery if you would also like to get access from the top.
Once you remove the two lines make sure you plug them with corks or something to keep moisture out and this will help save the dryer and other components from excessive moisture accumulation from the atmosphere.
Because of what happened try to get an idea of how much oil came out. New compressors come full of oil and must be balanced. This is usually done by emptying the old compressor and measuring how much oil was in there and then taking the same out of the new. The question is how much blew out?

 

Seals. You are going to find two seals under the manifolds that attach to the compressor. Do not reuse and do not use aftermarket. I always buy several of each:
- Compressor Outlet and Condenser Inlet - Toyota Part No. 90210-A0002
- Compressor Inlet - Toyota Part No. 90210-A0004

System Oil. There is a special prescribed by Toy. If you spill it all here is the part number:
Toyota Part No. 00289-AC897

 

Great thanks!! Do you know where I can find the specs on how much freon and oil go into this system? Or can the parts/ service dept. tell me?

 

I'll address both the oil and the refrigerant.
Warning, Long Post
Oil. At the factory new compressors that contain enough oil for the entire system are bolted in, the refrigerant is added, and once the engine is started the oil is distributed to all the internal parts of the AC system including the lines, condenser, evaporator and compressor. Toyota says that when a condenser or evaporator is replaced with new ones that the following amount is to be added to the new component as follows but is silent on how much is in the lines:
- Condenser - 40ml (1.4 fl oz.)
- Evaporator - 40ml (1.4 fl. oz.)
- Lines - ???

Here is what the FSM says about the oil in the compressor:
"Adjust Compressor Oil
(a) When replacing the compressor and magnetic clutch with new ones, after gradually discharging the refrigerant gas from the service valve, drain the following volume of oil from new compressor before installation.
Standard:
(Oil capacity inside a new compressor and magnetic clutch: 150+15cc (5.1+0.51 fl.oz.)) -
(Remaining oil amount in the removed compressor and magnetic clutch) = (Oil amount to
be removed when replacing the compressor)
NOTICE:
- When checking the compressor oil level, observe the precautions on the cooler removal/installation.
- If a new compressor and magnetic clutch are installed without removing some oil in the pipes of the vehicle, the oil amount becomes too large. This prevents heat exchange in the refrigerant cycle and causes refrigerant failure.
- I the volume of oil remaining in the removed compressor and magnetic clutch is too small, check for oil leakage.
- Be sure to use RL-897 for compressor oil."

Refrigerant Fill. There should be a sticker on the top of the radiator plastic piece under the hood that says:
- R134a (or HFC 134a, same stuff)
- Maximum - 630g (1.39 lbs)
- Minimum - 570g (1.26 lbs.)

WARNING: the refrigerant has to be charged by weight and weight only! Do not overcharge for good measure.

 

Thanks Taco'09 for all the tech information, I am getting all the parts together now. I will let you know if I have any problems and how it all turns out.

 

I got everything I need except the dryer. Is the dryer built into the condenser on these trucks?

 

Denso 471-9196 A/C Compressor ? Right or Wrong? Part #

 

Looks like the correct Denso part. The dryer is inside the condenser on the extreme right side (pass side and runs vertical). It is intended to be sealed although there is a fill plug on the condenser and aftermarket dessicant can be purchased I have been unable to open the plug -- it looks to have the threads sealed.

You will probably not have to worry about the internal dryer being rendered ineffective unless the system has been open for a while or you have reason to believe there could have been moisture that entered. Just keep any openings sealed with something to keep out moisture.

You do know that the system is going to have to be subjected to a deep vacuum to eliminate moisture before it can be refilled.

Oh, and familiarize yourself with the location of the service ports. There is a high side and a low side. The high side is under the cap on right side of the aluminum outlet pipe from the condenser. Lift hood to see. The low side port is on the larger of the aluminum pipes. Look for it near the oil dip stick.

Precaution. Auto AC work is one of the few things that I strongly recommend be done by professionals experienced with the newer high pressure systems. Generally replacing components can be done but the actual vacuum evacuation and fill requires special tools that DIYer often do not have and are expensive. Modern systems just do not have much of a margin for errors. For example, refrig. fill has to be done precisely by weight using a special scale because it is hard to do guess-a-fill and if you will get either an over charged or under charged system both that cool poorly or not at all. Safety is also a consideration.