Sometimes get no response when turning key to START

Nope, just this. I will try doing it with clutch start cancel a few times just to see if I can recreate the problem.

Here’s a neat video I found.. he says if you hold the key to START for a while and finally the starter kicks in, it could be a bad starter. I unfortunately didn’t have an OEM starter, I have an OEM alternator... so I’ll have to get a new one.

https://youtu.be/DpkDW2zUCms

 

I believ the electrical part of the ign switch is just held in with 2 screws. Just drop the lower column cover and knee bolster.

 

So I’m guessing it’s almost the same as the first video I linked on the previous page? The one of 2003 4Runner.

Gonnna try the “hold the key in start position” trick and go from there. If the starter finally does something after a few seconds then I’ll replace it.

 

Yes very similiar

 

Dollars to doughnuts it's the ignition switch...

 

yes that is the part. some call them cylinder and others call them switch. nothing to do with the actuall key - it is the electrical connection the key makes when it makes contact after turning. next time it dies on you look closely at the position of the key. if it is the switch/cylinder the key will have returned to the off or acc position. it is the electrical connection created between the key and switch which keeps the key in the one position. if the switch is bad the connection fails and the key returns to a non-run, no electrical contact, position. the key should stay in the on position each time it is turned to run. hard to get into - like standing on your head and working. A pain the the ass but not complicated. just take your time and be sure you have all the plastic shields out of your way and a good light source to see what you are working on.

 

The cylinder is the cylindrical rotating component that accepts the key, it us carried by the cylinder housing (body). When turned it unlocks the steering wheel and rotates the switch armature to power up the car and start the engine. The switch mounts typically at the rear of the body:

 

considering a new OEM ignition switch is going to be $88, I'm going to remove the starter and get it replaced since it's a lifetime unit. Then if that doesn't fix it, I'll go ahead and bite the bullet on a new ignition switch.

 

On a 1st gen I'm sure it will come apart allowing the contacts to be cleaned/reshaped/lubricated...

 

That’s true, though I tend to break small electrical things encased in plastic more than I care to admit

 

https://youtu.be/QmsO0X9joJw

This time I held the key on START and eventually the starter kicked in. So per the video at the top of this page, I’m guessing the starter is to blame at this point.

 

Any way possible you can hold a test light on the solenoid wire at the starter? Then have someone turn the key. See if the solenoid is getting power when it's not starting.

 

I bet I could. Problem is, since this happens randomly, I would have to find a way to do it by myself. I’m gonna see if I can get a new starter tomorrow (should be $0 anyways) and report back in a week or so. If I can’t recreate the problem then I should be good to go.

 

Swapped the starter, so far so good after about 20 or so starts since install. I think it was bad contacts on the starter. Just FYI, these "lifetime" units only apply to the first unit. Once you swap it out once, you have 90 days from the point you receive the second one for a warranty. Which means when this happens again, I'll need to get a contact kit.

FWIW the carquest reman starter from Advance is super quiet. I like it.

 

Awesome. Hopefully that is it.

FYI, don't know if I posted it or not, but my 2000 has original starter and new contacts around 291k are all that's been done.

 

Not bad. I've about to roll over 180k. I killed my first starter in high school when I thought "mudding" was cool

This time I'm pretty sure my leaky valve cover gaskets were a contributing factor..

 

I remember those days. First time I went mudding was in my 79 Buick Regal..... seriously. I've been avoiding mud for the past 25 years.... for the most part anyway.

 

Bump. I'm having a similar problem.

@ThunderOne When your truck wouldn't turn over with the key in the ignition, did you have power to all of your accessories or not? Obviously nothing would turn on as there was no response when turning the key, but did your power door locks still work, for example? I'm having a very similar problem, except that when the truck won't turn over, I also lose all power to any accessories... suggesting a dead battery (or something un-related to the starter). Then after a few tries, it'll start up like normal and I'll regain all power functions.

I got my battery load tested today at 530-something CCA's. It's an Optima Red-top, bought back in 2010 by the previous owner. I'm just trying to figure out if it's starter-related or battery-related... my thought would be battery-related, because if it was a problem within the starter, I'd still have power to the door locks, headlights, etc.

The problem is, it always starts up fine after a few tries... which doesn't sound battery-related to me, right?

Am I correct in my thinking?

 

With the key in the ignition and turned to the 'ON' position (after trying to start the key moves to 'ON' automatically) you don't have power to accessories or windows, etc? I'm just making sure I understand correctly.

 

Correct. No power when the key is in the ON position.