3.4 spark plugs?

Yep they were on the passenger side. I don't remember seeing white marks on any of them. I chunked them all in the trash as I was swapping them out. I'm thinking the same, that when I had timing belt, water pump done the mechanic changed the passenger side because of easy access.

 

Dumb question, so if I run ngk dual on both sides no issues? And I've never done plug wires like this, any tips?

 

NGK on both sides will be no issue. Plug wires are very simple. There are a few things to remove but overall it's fairly simple, but a little time consuming.

 

Thanks. Got the parts in my cart on rockauto.even gonna do the fuel filter.owned the truck for a few months and figure it's time to get it in line.

 

USE DIELECTRIC GREASE ON THE BOOTS it aids in future removal and the boot is less likely to stick to the porcelain of the plug, also helps keep moisture out of the connection.

 

Good idea.

 

And route the wires like this. The specific placement and crisscrossing is intentional.

 

And DO NOT use any anti sieze goo on your new plugs. You will run the risk of over torquing them.

 

Sorry guys which wires should i get i see some one here say ngk wires . Can i find those on rockauto ?

Thx for the help .

 

Another helpful routing pic

 

I've run both Denso and NGK wires with no issue NGK are pretty blue

 

Be sure to check Amazon too. I bought all my stuff from Amazon, using Prime. No shipping and they were cheaper than anywhere else I looked.

Did Denson plugs, NGK wires, Fram fuel filter, pcv valve and grommet.

 

Thanks for the info guys .

 

Yup, that's where I'm getting mine

 

I went with OEM wires, I think they ran me $62 from Camelback Toyota. Pretty pricey, but they fit nicely.

 

I agree with this....dealer serviced lazy to work the other side

 

all parts ordered.even got new pvc,grommet, and oil catch can inbound. may as well do a few things since im under the hood.

 

I apologize in advance for being critical not knowing the regulars here and that this quote has to be an inside joke. But just as I happened by this page by searching on plugs for my 2002 Tacoma 3.4 others might also an not know it is the absolute wrong advice.


Always use Anti-Seize on Spark Plugs, Wheel Studs, and Exhaust Studs Every time. Also, the fact is you never ever can torque an item properly unless the threads are lubricated with Anti-Seize, oil or a similar product. The possibility of over-torquing is clearly a joke as Anti-Seize is the only way to determine accuracy when using a properly calibrated Torque Wrench. If you are professionally trained, or just happen to read the instructions which come with any professional grade torque wrench you already know that is a fact, period.


Concerning my 3.4 5VZ-FE Plugs, they are 2 Ground and that is the only correct plug although I have used the 4 Electrode models also but would never use single platinum, iridium or otherwise. My Vehicle had the same on both sides and was delivered 3 days after assembly was completed 400 miles away in Fremont CA. Along the same lines, only purchase a new vehicle from the Fleet Manager at a large volume dealership. You don't have to buy a fleet of trucks. You just benefit from the Sellers lower purchase cost due to his volume of sales. I traveled 15 miles away from my home town and saved well over $1,500.00 up to $2,500.00 from the price my local town of 500,000 Dealership guaranteed was the best price they could get willing to show their invoice proving I was asking for more than they paid. I contacted North Americas #1 Fleet Manager on a Saturday evening desperate because my Eclipse was destroyed with only 1 truck available new within 500 miles + the wrong color. The man told me on the phone he was having 9 being built in my color and options but would request they ship one ASAP instead of waiting for the complete order. 52 hours later on Tuesday he called me at 7:30 AM and said my 2002 Toyota Tacoma Lunar Mist Extra Cab PreRunner V6 with TRD package was ready for the $20,168 OTD that he quoted on Saturday. Plug for Danny Zendejas Fleet Manager at Crown Toyota which was later purchased by John Elway. Awards around the entire office stating that he sold the most Asian import vehicles of any type on the entire North American Continent in 1984, 1985, 1986.......and as #1 beat #2s sales volume by 300 cars every year forever.



Back to Anti-Seize the most important maintenance item you can own. As a former professional technician in multiple professions one being Motorcycle repair. I was stunned to see it in writing but figured no rebuttals in the last 3 months means everyone knows he is kidding. That aside, many might not have knowledge of what is a requirement yet being advised against, again I am sure as a joke and apologize for not being in on it but would hate for anyone to read it and think it was true. So, forgive me for being alarmed to the point of creating a login account just to try and prevent casual search engine readers from being totally misinformed to the point of severe engine damage which would be extremely expensive to outsource and be a bummer to do yourself having to purchase a gasket set, remove the head, purchase a Heli Coil kit etc... BTW if you want to risk not removing the head load the tap with grease, pray to your choice of deity and blow air in the cylinder with the exhaust valve open, the intake closed and piston as close to TDC as possible to try and remove whatever fell in. Side note on Heli Coils, as a mechanic early on I thought they were repair fix it on the cheap shade tree type items. That was before I picked up Cases for VWs that were prepared for Drag Racing level performance. Every Aluminum thread had Brand Name Heli-Coils installed. Along with precision line boring the crank and cam journals (for perfect alignment when you install a perfectly machined cam and crank) Cleaning castings, cleaning and chamfering oil passages made a pair of new cases in the 1980s sell for over $2,500.00


So here is the truth for the non-insiders on the obvious joke about exactly what you should never do with spark plugs in aluminum threads. Anti-Seize is a brand name of Loctite Corporation and if anyone plans on maintaining equipment for at least the next 3-10 years or more skip the local auto supply and go directly to a source where you can purchase a possible lifetime supply 1 lb. jar of Loctite Anti-Seize Silver paste in the convenient jar with applicator brush. The cost today is the same $38.00 I paid in 1982 for the jar I am still using and have let my neighbor use on his Car, Truck, Trailer, Camper, Quad, RZR lug nuts for the last 8 years. It is available in white food grade, but preferably just stick to the original which was Certified safe for industrial food processing conveyors or the Nickel which increases temperature rating from over 1000 deg. F to over 2000 degrees. It is needed every time you install a spark plug, a wheel lug nut, or bolt on an exhaust manifold. Every time no exceptions! The absolute worst thing you could do with your Toyota is install spark plugs without Anti-Seize applied minimally to the first thread and about 4 more in 1 spot that will promote installation with the compound making contact the entire time the threads are turning. Not 1/2 way from the end as it will not distribute properly and allow for some dry contact.


Why is Anti-Seize mandatory and an absolute requirement? Because dissimilar metals in direct contact actually in a scientific way I am not prepared to explain creates an electrical current (electrolysis? No?) The term I believe used is Galvanic Corrosion. The micro current is going to corrode the weaker metal and the two parts are going to essentially rust together. This is why you have Zinc Anodes on a Boat and Motor. That same effect causes weaker metals to corrode, in the marine industry Zinc is the weak link an thus called the Sacrificial Zinc Anode as it slowly fades away instead of your aluminum boat or engine. Do you want your spark plug threads and plug connection to be oxidized and create a cold weld or gall the aluminum threads destroying your head when you next remove the plugs? I don't, and it should be adamantly advised against.


Another Fun Fact pertaining to Zinc Anodes and Home Water Heaters. Although you will never see one in a Hardware store that sells $500.00 water heaters for your home. You might have noticed an opening in the top that has a pipe plug with a square drive for removal. If you want to remove it I advise using a 12-point socket that fits tight. As a professional tool user, I never advise using 12-point tools on any 6-point system as they are inferior but unless you have square sockets, the 12 point is better than a adjustable or open end wrench. Why do you remove that square plug, which you should definitely at least every 5 years? Because inside there is a Sacrificial Zinc Anode in 3 pieces with chain links connecting the parts so that is not just one long rod that could not be removed once installed. Yes. before you hear the ping ping sizzle sizzle of a dripping about to fail rusted through water heater. You can actually remove and replace the Zinc Anode which is meant to keep the water heater from ever rusting through. You would expect it to show up on the same web-page as a water heater as an associated product. I have not seen that myself, but hope it is helpful to someone out there who does not have $500 to throw away 10 years before necessary much less having to install or pay for installation while no hot water is available and the family all is looking for an immediate fix.

 

k bro...

http://www.globaldenso.com/en/products/aftermarket/plug/basic_knowledge/installation/index.html
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/spark-plug-makers-say-no-anti-seize.175558/

 

Logic and facts ? Wut ?