LOTSOFTOYS PANDA BUILD

Break it down and cycle it properly! You've already done all this work.

 

I'm prepared to break it down and cylclean with the main leaf. Im failing to understand how my droop measurement will be accurate with a main leaf only vs my whole pack.

I get the spring will flex more with force. Its a spring. Gotcha. But the clamps are limiting it forsure. I could lift the truck and measure droop. Take the clamps off and the axle will fall... further more, if I only did the main leaf, and take a measurement that is longer then it is when the pack is assembled, how does that help me buy shocks?

 

If this doesn't make sense, it's gotta be because we are typing. I'll take pictures of what I mean tomorrow

 

So sensitive Jason just asking technical questions

 

Jace the main leaf is the top leaf. So all leaves are clamped to it. The main leaf will be you max suspension cycle. There will be no more.

 

The retainers can without a bit of down travel. But hardly anything.

The main leaf is king though. That will be the largest full motion part of the pack.

Cut some 2x4 blocks down to size to be the rest of the pack so your lower axle shock mounts will be accurate.

 

OK so I know I need to move my bumps down about half inch. That will make them contact the leaf just as the spring reaches flat-hair past. Because I'm gonna move it down it took some travel away. My travel numbers were measured from bottom of frame rail to the top of the built flip plate. 10 3/4". Minus the half inch from me moving the bumps down. So 10.25.
@Squeaky Penguin u guessed right on travel

Because my shocks are mountRd at the new angle tho my shocks will need to be longer.
My compressed measurement is 21"
My extended measurement is 30". The problemost I'm seeing on my quick search of kings is the 10 inch stroke shocks only extended to 27".

Where as the 12" stroke shocks have specs of: 19.5 compressed and 31.5 extended...

The tires is gonna get super close when flexed. Hope the 1.25 spacers help with that. I'm so excited to feel a rear suspension that doesn't bottom out on the shocks!

 

I’m gonna piggyback here since this is the current topic (sorry for the thread jack, Jace!) Just a couple quick questions about droop travel since I’m hoping to do what Jace is doing now within a month or so.

Is the max droop travel during cycling (with just the main leaf and surrogate block) achieved when both sides are drooped out or when one side is stuffed and the other side is allowed to droop out completely?

Is this independent of the spring mounting method, i.e. SOA or SUA, assuming a non-inverted shackle?

@jberry813 @Squeaky Penguin

Thanks, gents. I know what I think intuitively based on my grasp of physics, but I can also be a dumbass, so...

 

I think that's almost exactly what I got when I cycled with 2" longer shackles. Decided I was still better off with the stock shackles for geometry.

Could get 12" kings with the welded rod ends. That will shorten the OAL by an inch.

 

How much do those bumps compress too?

 

And did you already fully weld the lower mount? Should've left that tacked until you get the shocks where they need to be.

 

I welded them on. After seeing the available sizes of shocks. I was well out of the 10 inch shock range, so there is no point of moving the lower mounts. And those bumps compressed about an inch when I cranked on it really hard. Again they are moving down.

 

I'm sure Micah will help with this but why welded ends vs what is the alternative threaded?

 

I should read better. I assumed the 12s would bottom out, but sounds like you're good.

 

I thought for sure the 12s were gonna bottom out too but the angle of the shock helps.

 

OK smooth body shocks... no resi, resi with hose or resi attached?

 

Resi with hose.

Attached resi will likely make it easier to rub with the wheels. With a hose you should be able to move them put of the way.

Go for resi over smooths the rear works very had as it is and is easy to have shock fade in the back.

 

Not sure on this one, curious what Jason has to say.

My inclination would be to say you'll see the most travel with vertical movement, as there is no twist or potential for binding in the leafs or shackles (why I have nylocks on my shackles and also reminds me you should read up in @Lumpskie 's build about orbit eyes). That being said, like Jason said, they are springs after all. When articulated with a proper bump, the axle will twist off that fulcrum point and push the opposite side down. Whether or not that's more travel than just moving straight up and down, I'm not sure. I wasn't concerned with that possibility as my inboarded shocks won't move as much during articulation.

Also, when my axle was fully drooped, I jumped up and down on the drum and got a touch more movement.

Aren't you the one with the physics and engineering knowledge?