Thief broke window.. door window fitment between years

Make sure all the guides are tight and weather stripping is in the channel correctly. The window itself wont cause the rattling. It's something to do with the installation. (sorry ) If it didn't rattle before.

 

The window is definitely in the channel. First time I thought I was done. The window was binding up because it wasn’t in the channels at the front. So I redid it. But it’s loose in the channels. Methinks maybe when the thief pushed my window inward it fucked up and stretched out the weather stripping im not sure how to fix without redoing it completely.. $111 bucks for a new run channel

Maybe I’ll go at it with a heat gun... see what happens. Maybe it’ll expand a bit.

 

Does it rattle forward and backwards or in and out. I know you can tweak the metal run channels guides in to tighten up the forward and backward movement.

 

It rattles in and out. But how can I tighten the run channels? That may help a bit.

 

You can loosen the bolts and make sure there pushed together as much as possible before you tighten the fasteners. Other then that with the window up you can bend them a little. The front one back and the rear one forward.

 

The in and out is going to be the rubber run channel itself.

 

the window wipes on the inside and outside of the window are in good shape? One on the door panel the other on the door.

 

stupid question - is it as thick as your other window?

 

Yup. That's what I do. Works for any accessory in the car basically.

Short aside - I was getting a new seat motor for my Lexus ES300 power seats I'm putting in my truck (I burned the track motor doing testing) and needed to grab one from the junkyard. To access the motor you need to move the seat all the way backwards to access to the rail bolts. Of course I couldn't move the chair without any power to the car, so I cut the power harness from the seat to the body and I connected it directly to my drill battery. I accidentally connected it to the wrong side of the harness (to the body) and it set the car alarm off. As I started rolling the seat backwards a guy walks by me, stops, walks backwards looks at me, looks at the seat, and looks back at me like I'm some kind of wizard and walks away. That was pretty damn funny.

 

Lucky you gets to have tinted front windows. Illegal in California

 

LIMO baby! lol

 

Oh god that reminds me of the Top Gear Limo episode.

 

Damn sorry to hear about your ride. I'd be looking to hang some some m'fer.

 

Depends on how illegal - I've had tinted fronts in my previous vehicles.

 

Who knows. If it is different, I would need a caliper to measure. Since there is no window film on it, that will also make a slight difference.

 

Yeah they’re fine, I like to clean them when they get dirty but they’re pretty clean.

When you say fasteners do you mean the ones for the window that attach to the regulator?

I just checked my window on the way to work, there is definitely some angled "forward to back" play.

 

You're an engineer and you don't have a set of calipers!?

 

I'm a data guy. not an engineer. lol

 

My bad. Anyway I've had a cheap set from Harbor Freight come in handy once in awhile. I think I paid $12 or something like that. The likelihood that it's an aftermarket window that's that much thinner that it would cause a rattle is slim. Just figured it would be worth it to verify that wasn't the case.

Have you had a chance to re-inspect things yet? Door stuff is sometimes hard to assess until little details are pinpointed.

 

Well according to @mechanicjon, I can adjust the window track a little bit and tighten it down, so I'll have to remove the door panel when I get home from work and figure out how to adjust. I thought there was only "in and out" play, but I checked a few minutes ago and there is definitely also some "forward to back" play as well.

Window is definitely OEM, it's got the Toyota etchings in the corner.