Tail light mod (both lights used as brake and signals)?

No idea. I don't imagine they would since the normal bulbs pull more power.

 

The Diode Dynamics Tail as Turn module won't work on non LED's.

 

Ahh well there you go then lol.

 

Well that's good to know. Good thing I purchased led's lol

 

Do you guys have LEDs in the front turn signals also? I have read that the front and rear signals are part of the same circuit and so the extra LEDs up front might mean you need to add another resistor on that side.

It might be worth testing, but try adding another resistor (in series) to the same side you are still having hyperflash issues with. It sounds like there is still not enough resistance when the power at the most demanding (highest wattage scenario) and so the ECU goes into hyperflash mode again.


And yes, I can also confirm that the Diode Dynamics Tail as Turn module won't work on non LED's. All blinkers on that side (front and back) just stopped working as if I had blown a fuse! lol

 

No LEDs in front.

How could it need MORE resistance if the load increased? So it's now powering two bulbs instead of one. It wouldn't work WITH the resistor, I'm guessing it thinks the load is too high. Without it, they work fine EXCEPT when the headlights are on or the brake pedal is depressed.

So it should need less resistance now to equal the "right" load now that the turn signal runs two bulbs instead of one.

 

Well I wasn't able to get to this last night, but kind of glad until a fix has been found ha ha.

Instead of doing the diode dynamics t to t, could we use a relay wired up so that the brake lights are always active, but then relay kicks on when turn signal is activated?

 

No because you would still be sending the brake light signal to the light, so in addition to that, you'd send another signal to it and probably screw something up.

 

I'm not a wiring expert so I thought I ask to see if it would make things easier lol.

 

Well I'm not sure why but @ToyoDrew was correct in that I needed more resistance. This is puzzling to me, so perhaps someone can explain it, however I was able to FIX my problem!

I hooked up some 3Ohm 50W resistors, and with that, the signals would never work at all, even in ACC mode. Then I put it in series with the 6Ohm giving me 9Ohms and everything works great with truck on, lights on, brakes depressed etc.

I'll have to get them mounted later though.

So what is confusing to me is why did a 6Ohm resistor work fine when running only one LED bulb, but not with running two LED bulbs for the turn signal? The load should be higher running two LED's so it should better mimic an incandescent bulb is my thought. Why would running more load require me to add even more load for it to work? That's what I'm not getting.

I'm not an electrician though so there's that

Also, if someone runs into this I found a 9Ohm 50W on Mouser that should work. I'll just wire what I have in series.

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...Nd0dY0Kymzsd/qgtEEi3TKEAoF06RvsS6vwi9Go1O0w==

 

That is great news. Are you wiring in the resistor on the turn signal wire like the diagram?

 

Yes, like this:

 

So I still have regular bulbs in the front and they work fine...odd that yours don't.

 

So I already had everything including the 6ohm 50w resistor and was going to do this next Monday since I have it off. Now I'm worried about it not working or hyper flashing so I just ordered some 8ohm 50w resistors for back up. I'll try the 6ohm and if they don't work I will try the 8ohm. Hope fully the 6ohm work and I don't have any issues. Fingers are crossed. Thanks to everyone for posting up their how to's and issues. It helps us other guys out a lot. I will post up once I get it done.

 

Definitely let us know. Hopefully 8 Ohm would be enough. Damn finicky trucks.

 

I think what was happening is that when the resistance (that the ECU is measuring) is too little with 3Ohms...so it activates the hyperflash mode because it thinks one of the bulbs is blown on that side of the truck.

When you had the 6Ohm resistor in, the ECU thought things were fine when your blinkers were on, but the other lights were off. That's because the current draw was lower. Once you turn the lights on or press on the brakes and then activate the turn signals, the ECU is looking for a higher current draw (which means a more watts are being burned if the voltage and resistance is the same), but the efficient LEDs are not pulling as much as the ECU thought a working bulb should be pulling, so it activates the hyperflash mode again.

Now that you have 9 ohms on your tail lights, it seems to trick the ECU into thinking there is the appropriate load during the low and higher current draw situations.

Things wouldn't be this finicky if we weren't combining the brake lights with the turn signals into a single circuit (using the Turn as Tail). But I'm glad it worked out for you and I be the 8Ohm resistors that Age315

 

Well what didn't make sense was that with the truck on using the 6 Ohm resistor, they wouldn't blink at all. But if I REMOVED the 6 Ohm resistor so there was no resistor, they would work fine with the truck on (No brakes pressed, no lights on). I don't know....I have a solution so that's good enough for me!

Oh and with the 3Ohm they wouldn't blink at all even with truck in ACC mode.

 

Wow, that is weird! Glad you tested the 9 Ohm load and got it working...might be helpful for someone else who encounters the same situation that you did

 

Yeah it was confusing.

Nice avatar...but man they are hard to watch this season

 

It's been miserable to watch! And what's even more shocking is that the AFC West as a whole is almost as bad. Lol