What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Lifting is overrated and hard on a young body. Not worth it lol

 

Well shit. Making some pretty bold assumptions here aren’t we.

 

10" shocks? How much of the shaft is showing at ride height? Looks to be quite a bit.

Also, flex it yet to see how bad it rubs?

 

I'm with this guy

Rub the tires at all?

And are you getting the most out of those shocks travel wise? Is it possible to do the u bolt flip as well

 

dang - well no big deal - i just wish they would have came with the new balljoints as well then..

Tires ride nice... im surprised actually..

then again - i was riding on a 15 year old suspension

Tires already look small - but i didn't want to go with the rubbing/cutting with the 285s...

 

Winch didn't cut it.


20171205_175851 by Ryan Heintzelman - Flickr2BBcode
SM-G935P, undefined@4.2 mm, f1.7, 1/60s, ISO125

My motor mounts are too soft and the motor just follows the trans as far as I can move it. Going to try wedging some wood blocks between the motor and frame tomorrow. I've been spraying it with acetone and atf, hopefully that soaks in tonight. I'm guessing this didn't need to be separated during the frame swap or it wouldn't be this difficult.

 

Yeah they're 10''. I need to measure how much shaft is showing and see what kind of down travel I have. I was looking at it earlier today and thinking that it seems like it was set up with too little down travel.

 

Tires rub a little on the topsides of the fender and shock body. Once I do a U-bolt flip, I can fine tune the bump height to eliminate this.

 

I should have mentioned that percussion is required after you have tension on it. I used my air hammer and my dead blow a lot to get the bitch to spread apart. Also dont attach the strap where it pulls from an angle.

 

But how would you fix that? You can’t really move the mounts without cutting them out.

 

Yeah I'd just have grind off the lower mounts and re weld them at a different angle. Wouldn't be too big of a deal. I don't think it's actually an issue though. I drove it today a bunch and it drove fine. It also droops out quite a bit when I flex the suspension out. I posted some more pictures of the shock relocation in my built thread, including flexed out pictures.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/austins-mid-travel-1st-gen-build.514868/

 

Does it ride any better than a stock shock position?

 

From my built thread:

"Got a chance to take the truck out for a test drive. Out boarding the shocks has greatly decreases the amount of body roll the truck had. The shocks have a good road feel, maybe a little on the stiff side, but that makes it handle well. Off road they're also a little on the stiff side at speeds below 45 mph, but they may just need to break in. If they don't soften up as they break in, I will likely have them revalved for slower speeds. The tires do rub slightly at full stuff, but that can be easily fixed by a u bolt flip, and extending the bump stops about a half inch or so. Overall I'm happy with how it all came out, just need to fix the little issues."

 

Lower mount is too low for the shocks



Shock doesn't look close to bottomed out at full bump either.

Raise lower mounts or get shocks with longer bodies.

Oh, and this seems pertinent again:

 

Well I can’t help but wonder if the increased handling and decreased body roll has everything to do with shock valving and little to do with outboarding the shock. Having 1.5” spacer would help with handling as well I would think.

 

NEW SHOES!!!


Before


After



Selling my Michelin at2(like new) with wheels for $900 if anyone wants them, paid $2000 265/75r16 at2 with American outlaw 16x8 I think with like a -8 offset they stick out further than factory for sure!! Just wanted something more aggressive for off road and for work!!


Tires for sale link more info!!


https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/265-75r16-michelins-at’2-for-sale-and-wheels-in-ga.521470/


King setup coming next waiting for them to get here!! To level the freaking front out!!!


New shoes for wife for early Christmas lol!

 

The setup uses full travel when it is cycled straight up and down. I may end up talking with the shop that did the install and have them adjust the lower mounts and do a u bolt flip with longer bumps so that it flexes without rubbing.

 

I was tapping on it too. I need to reposition the winch pull to since it pulls up when tight. It's fairly loose in that picture

 

I'm sure all three factors play a roll in the decreased body roll

 

Interestingly, when dealer does the frame swap, they take the engine and tranny up with the body on their lift. They have a special 'lift" that fits across the engine bay to hold engine. I didn't notice how they did the back of the transmission area to hold it up. But if you think about it, there isn't much to disconnect doing it that way, much less than if you would leave the engine in the frame.