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Cheap (Non-Factory) Roof Racks?

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Alexely999, Dec 7, 2017.

  1. Dec 7, 2017 at 10:26 AM
    #1
    Alexely999

    Alexely999 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Alex
    Bay Area, CA
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    Hey Guys & Gals,

    I want to see if anyone has any experience with these cheaper roof racks on eBay/Amazon/etc. The kind that attach by utilizing the door jamb/body.

    Examples:
    2526rvr_id%253D1386299721436

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00W...=roof+rack&dpPl=1&dpID=41bdO9l13hL&ref=plSrch


    I’d really like to get an OEM but I don’t have the cash.

    Does anyone have any input on the universal ones?

    What size/dementions?

    Any links?

    Thanks!
     
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    #1
  2. Dec 7, 2017 at 10:39 AM
    #2
    C0d3M0nk3y

    C0d3M0nk3y Well-Known Member

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    2008 Tacoma Sport DCSB (silver)
    I still have the Yakima Aero Bars (in the garage, not on the truck). I have found that the roof racks that attach to the doors have a nasty tendency to 'wander' over time. If you only use them occasionally, then it will be fine, but I use mine A LOT.

    It will cost more money (and require more work) but you can get Yakima towers that will mount to the factory holes under the rubber gutter guard.

    I have some write-ups on my build thread. Be aware...the whole set-up costs about as much as the factory system, so it saves no money, but with the Yakima set-up I can get 66" bars (or longer if I want).

    If you really want to try the door mounted bars, I have a set of Yakima Aero bars that I could maybe be talked out of (maybe not...I am trying to get them mounted on my 2nd vehicle, but haven't found the right hardware yet).

    Because a post isn't really a post without pictures...here are some of the various set-ups I have used.

    Yakima Aero Bars mounted:


    Replace Aero Bars with regular Yakima towers:

     
    Alexely999[OP] likes this.
  3. Dec 7, 2017 at 11:02 AM
    #3
    forana

    forana Well-Known Member

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    No money, all went to truck...
    I went with the Yakima round bar racks that attach through the door jamb. I would have really really liked to instal the racks using the factory ditch holes but from what I have previously read, you need to drill and I did not want to do that.

    They ran about $300-$400 total I think. I really liked them and never regretted fronting the cash. I use them all the time:surfboard, hardware store runs, camping, etc.
     
    Alexely999[OP] likes this.
  4. Dec 8, 2017 at 8:42 AM
    #4
    Alexely999

    Alexely999 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the replies guys.

    The first set up you’re talking about is what I’m considering going for right now. But the fact that they “wander” is making me wonder if I should just wait and get an OEM rack or find someone selling a used one...

    Hmm so either way you end up spending around the same amount.
     
  5. Dec 8, 2017 at 12:35 PM
    #5
    C0d3M0nk3y

    C0d3M0nk3y Well-Known Member

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    2008 Tacoma Sport DCSB (silver)
    Actually, there is a way (at least for the 2008 Tacoma, but I am pretty sure it applies to any Tacoma that supports a factory rack) that requires no drilling. The first time I looked I didn't see the factory mounting holes under the gutter guard (rubber runners on the roof). It turns out that Toyota covers the factory holes with a sealer under the rubber gutter guards. With an exacto knife you can cut out the holes and use those to install Yakima towers (there is a style of Yakima tower that uses 1 bolt, these are the ones to use). The thing that really sucks...the factory holes go ALL THE WAY THROUGH THE ROOF. I used seam sealer (had plenty of it on hand) on the bolts as I installed them to prevent any leaks. I also only cut out 4 holes (there are many more for the factory rack).

    Here is a picture of the holes I am referring to:


    Cutting the rubber gutter guard to line up with these holes is a pain in the ass. I messed it up quite badly a couple of times. If I had known any better, I would have reviewed Prinsu's guide on how they install their racks. They have well written instructions on how to deal with the gutter guard. I can't comment on how good they are since I didn't follow them. I didn't find their instructions until after I had finished my install.

    For me...the Yakima bars on the front cab are GREAT. I love that I can have 66" bars on the front cab. For what I carry, 66" bars are ideal. If you check out Prinsu, the factory bars, or several other options, they are all much shorter in length.

    So...even if I had the option of other bars, I would pass. The Yakima bars work out best for my needs (but other people's needs differ, I want to carry 6 kayaks on the front cab).

    Let me know if you have any questions or if I can help in any way.
     
    dziner likes this.
  6. Dec 8, 2017 at 3:37 PM
    #6
    forana

    forana Well-Known Member

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    No money, all went to truck...
    Is it pretty solid with one point of anchor? I'd really prefer if there was 2.

    There was some guy that made racks with some kind of aluminum rail and connectors. It was the best looking DIY kind of rack I've seen for far. Most cheap ones are ugly.

    Rhino racks are a little cheaper than yakima and thule. Amazon has some generic brands that are cheaper but I have no idea how good they are.
     
  7. Dec 15, 2017 at 11:40 AM
    #7
    C0d3M0nk3y

    C0d3M0nk3y Well-Known Member

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    I have handled multiple boats (probably about 5 of them) at interstate speeds for a couple hundred miles just fine. When I talk about 'boats' I am referring to whitewater kayaks that typically weigh between 35 lbs to 50 lbs. So...we aren't talking extreme weight, but they tend to be rather large and bulky with some significant wind resistance.


    Yakima has designed one set of their towers with the 1 bolt option to mount to factory holes on several vehicle models. I have used this system for many years on a Mazda 3, and have seen it in use on some BMW's and other vehicles that have factory rack options (when people don't want to use the factory rack).

    The 'homemade' rack I saw bouncing around recently was based off the Prinsu design, and if I remember correctly, the guy who put it together ended up buying the Prinsu mounting hardware and fabricated his own cross beams. From what I could tell, the cross beams were being limited to the width of the vehicle, and I like mine to be the width of my mirrors (66" minimum, but I think the rack on the cap are ~69"+).

    For me, I have a defined need. I want to be able to carry 10 whitewater kayaks (I can do 6 with no problems, 8 with a bit of work, and 10 is still pretty hard to manage).

    Once you figure out your needs, then getting the appropriate rack becomes easier. The factory rack does not meet my needs, and when I looked at the Prinsu (and some of the other high end off-road designs) they would not meet my needs as well. I need something that will go to about the mirrors, and the off-road ones all seem to stop at the width of the roof.

    If anyone wants to discuss roof racks...I am always willing to discuss what I chose, how I came to my decision, and some of the trials and tribulations I went through. I also still have the door mounted racks. I don't like racks that clamp to the doors. I have yet to find a set that really works well.
     
    Alexely999[OP] likes this.
  8. Jun 13, 2018 at 7:24 AM
    #8
    CoachP

    CoachP Member

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    Do you happen to know a part # for the Yakima towers that bolt to the factory holes on a Tacoma?
     
  9. Jun 14, 2018 at 8:09 AM
    #9
    C0d3M0nk3y

    C0d3M0nk3y Well-Known Member

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    I am almost (~95%) positive that it is the Yakima Landing Pad 11 (#8000233). They look exactly like what I bought for my Mazda ~9 years ago, and based on the comments about what these are used for...it sounds exactly like what I am using. I did just upgrade my bolts for this to some new M6x50mm bolts. The ones I bought from Home Depot were rusting quite badly. I opted for some Titanium bolts. They aren't as strong as stainless steel, but they won't rust and based on the load that I am dealing with, the Titanium should work well enough. I expect the plastic from Yakima will fail before the bolts do.

    Either the bolts I used on my Mazda were too beat up, or were not long enough for the Tacoma...so I replaced them with what I could find on-hand.

    If you have any questions or concerns, let me know.
     
  10. Jun 14, 2018 at 8:21 AM
    #10
    seedy_tea

    seedy_tea Well-Known Member

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