Flat towing a 94 pickup (predecessor to Tacoma)

Hi,
I'm new to this forum. Please allow me to ask a question that has really been bothering me. My wife and I are planning to full time RV. I'd like to pull my 94 Toyota pickup, 5 speed manual, RWD, 22Re 4 cylinder. I'd like to flat tow it without having to modify it with a disconnect Device. REMCO TOWING says yes, my local transmission guy says yes, my local service guy says yes. But Toyota says no, flat bed trailer only. WTF! I love my truck. I don't want to hurt her. I've put close to 300k miles on her . I've slept in her, I've camped in her, ive used her for work and play. She's dry as a bone, and in great shape. Has anyone pull d a truck like this? Am I going to mess her Up?

 

2wd is safe to flat tow. Its the transfer case in the 4x4 models that requires a trailer.

 

I've towed them for 100+ miles with drive wheels on the ground, not my preferred method of towing them.but sometimes that's all you can do. No issue with the transmission afterwards.never a 4x4 tho.

 

I have a 93 pickup i flat towed from sandiego to minneapolis transfercase in neutral, worked but had alot of extra drag than using a trailer. Love the truck won't part with it. 360k still going.

 

Than you for the advice. I have decided that I will flat tow in spite of Toyota's advice. I'm a bit nervous about it, but they just haven't given me any reasoning behind their negative advice. By contrast, I've gotten a good understanding of the inner workings of the transmission and the differential by the folks who have explained how the gearing will still receive lubrication even without the engine running. Here's the response I got from Toyota.com when I asked them. Everyone else that I have asked says it will be ok, and that Toyota is simply being risk averse. So, hoping for the best.

 

I've seen plenty of 4x4's being flat towed (I assume they're all manuals, lol).

A trailer would certainly be "ideal" since you aren't wearing the drivetrain or the tires of your truck, but as others have said, you can do it without grenading your truck. As @Jckdnks said, you'll likely have extra drag, but it should be doable.

I think Toyota is just being extra cautious.

Keep in mind this response from Toyota is also specific (likely) to newer trucks, which have the ADD front differential, you're '94 has manual locking hubs. I bet if you found a manual from '94, it would say differently, as far as towing.

The other thing you could do, if you're really worried about your transmission, is just remove the rear drive-line (just don't forget to put it in the bed of the truck, lol).

 

His is a 2wd.

But I don't see why it'd be a big deal, especially with a manual. The manual trans and the diff don't get any help from the engine, the only thing keeping them lubed and working well is their own fluids. So the only thing I'd say is to add the miles towed to your service/maintenance interval. Does the odometer still keep spinning when the engine is off?

 

Thanks @jbrandt , my truck is not a 4x4 ... I just was not sure if I was clear on that ... I've scoured my owner's manual (I have the original) and it just doesn't really address this issue. The closest it comes is when it takes about emergency towing... just says we recommend a flat bed, but if you don't have one available, put it in neutral & release the front wheels. (Paraphrasing.)
Ok, how does one "just remove the rear drive-line" especially if you are a mechanical numbskull like me. Oh, and I only have the use of one arm... Sounds like its a major operation every time we camp somewhere.

 

Thanks @MagicMexican , yes, I think it'll rack up miles...but I don't think I care about that...already has about 300K.

 

For sure. May it last another 300k But I just meant don't forget about those miles, they may not count towards your engine oil and whatnot because the engine is off, but they count towards your diff/tranny.

Oh, and the driveshaft comes out pretty easily I think, I haven't done it on a hilux, but it's usually 4 bolts on the transmission side, and another 4 bolts on the differential side.

 

I did actually read that you had a 2wd, it just went in one ear, out the other, lol... But that seems to be the only reason I could think that Toyota would set a blanket rule like that, is for trucks with the ADDs, and I guess they figure we are too dumb to figure out if we have 4wd (with ADD) or 2wd...

Okay, if you look at the rear axle, the round skinny metal thiny that goes to the shifty turny thing (tranny), you'll see 4 bolts at each end that mount the drive-line to the rear axle, and to the tranny. I think they are 14mm bolts, just mark (with paint or something) so you attach it the exact same way (although I don't think that *really* matters), then just loosen/remove those bolts on each end. You may or may not have a bearing that supports the drive-line about half way, and that can be removed with the two bolts holding it on. It takes maybe 5 minutes. With one arm, maybe 10 minutes.

If you're going to drive across the county, I'd consider removing the driveline, but for shorter trips (a couple hundred miles maybe), probably not worth it.

 

@jbrandt , very cool; my wife will be impressed!

 

It's a mechanical system, so I'd assUme it does.

Never coasted with the engine off to find out, though, lol...

 

@MagicMexican ...Is my truck a "hilux?" Never realized that.

 

In the states they were just simply called Toyota "pickups"; outside of the states they're known as the Hilux with some differences...most notably a diesel engine option that we don't get over here.

 

the only issue I can foresee Toyota being concerned about is the fact the wheels/axles are now doing the turning and not the driveshaft. this is where the extra drag comes from. I'm no expert but considering the nature of how the ring gear works one wheel can spin faster than the other (turning) but how does that equate when the wheels are doing the turning of the internal gear and not a steady source like the drive-shaft?

If there was a way to pop open the ring gear that would be the most ideal way but it's not feasible in any situation. like @jbrandt mentioned if you are going long distance it's better to unbolt the driveshaft from the rear differential and then ratchet strap the drive-shaft to the frame. this keeps any chance of the transmission engaging or turning. short trips at lower speed shouldn't be that much of an issue.

I think the speedometer is on the output shaft of the trans so if there is no turning it will not register. especially since it's cable driven.

 

haha, I didn't even think of that! Much simpler than removing the entire thing, and only half the bolts to remove, too!

As far as the ring/pinion thing, I think you'd be wearing the opposite side of the gear teeth, like driving in reverse or downshifting going down a hill. In the grand scheme if things, probably not a big deal. Especially if you remove the drive-line, there'd be minimal friction against the gears to cause any wear.

 

Sorry, I know they are called 'pickups' but since pickup is such a generic term, and because I watch a lot of Top Gear/Grand Tour I like to call them Hilux.

 

Thank you all very much for this information. I think I fully understand the issue now. I think I also understand how FOS Toyota has been in responding to my question. I say this because for my model truck they have officially cited a document called their "HotSheet" that says: "The rear wheels cannot be uncoupled from the gearing and hardware that implements rear...wheel drive." As I have seen now with my own eyes (at the suggestion of @jbrandt and @frizzman ) there IS a relatively easy way to "uncouple" the rear wheels from the transmission. Why was that so hard for them to admit? Jeez Loueez! But again, y'all have been very helpful.

 

"plausible deniability"

"if you F' it up, it's not our fault"