Small Lifts to fit tires

The only justification for spacers is cost, there's nothing good about them.

If you can afford $100 for coil pucks then work an extra couple of weeks and save for 5100s in the front. A pair of those is only like $250 and you can reuse your stock coils while you save for better springs. That's safer and will ride much better.

In the rear suspension I would never bother with $50 lift blocks when an add-a-leaf is $100. Both will need new u-bolts anyway, so again, put in an extra shift or do ramen noodle lunches for a couple of weeks. I don't like add-a-leafs that much (I stressed a leaf pack that eventually sheared because of them) but I hate blocks more.

 

Look at link below at my $100 lift. By moving the spring perch up on a 5100 shock or adding a top plate spacer is really close to same thing when talking spring compression. With 40k on the clock I would lean towards replacing shocks but do what your budget allows and enjoy your truck. Note 2.5” lift is a safe area to lift too. 3-3+ is when you maybe looking at additional costs to keep proper drivablity.

 

Totally safe, a lot of dealers around here, Ford and dodge mainly put spacers on once they hit their lot. If it wasn’t safe they wouldn’t do it

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/coil-spring-spacers-good-or-bad.154793/#post-3116287

 

I want some proper AT's. nothing bigger than 33's since I know itll reduce my mpg's. I do want to maintain my fuel economy as much as I can, but dont want the truck to look squatty.

Also toying with new wheels but the stock 16" OR's work just fine and are good wheels. Every other alloys are expensive. Does anyone have experience with standard steel wheels? Cheaper and can look good, sturdy on the trail and can bang back into shape.

Thanks

 

Being bumpy will make it unsafe? That thread the guy wants a 2 inch spacer but that would net 4 inches of lift. Would ruin CV’s quickly. OP just wants a little lift, you will be fine. Look into CORNFED, I’m installing them on my girlfriends 4runner soon.

 

Coil binding and the shocks bottoming before hitting bump stops is the problem. Coil spacers aren't benign, they are still changing the suspension geometry so you still need to be aware of what's changing.

 

This is what I did:
Craigslist newish takeoffs from a third gen TRD OR (1" lift up front) OEM fit. Wheelers progressive AAL, and 1/4 top plate spacers. All in all cost about $300 including new third gen leafs. I wanted a total refresh as my shit was tired as hell. I'm running falken wildpeak at3w 265/75r16 on level 8 trackers that stick out about 2" further that stock. No rubbing once flaps were taken off.
image by seanbonham69, on Flickr
image by seanbonham69, on Flickr

 

What actual size do you want to run?

Diameter is not a size. You can have multiple size tires that are 33’’ in diameter.

 

33s will need CMC, mpgs will go down. My wheels on the truck are SCS and very light, 19Ibs I think. I used the factory steel since mines a base for awhile and use them on my camping trailer. Not the best pics

 

Cost and it's get you the clearance that you need to achieve certain rim/tire size majority speaking 75% of trucks on the road have spacers/leveling kit just so they can fit meater tires on them. I had a leveling kit and 1" block in the rear for 30k miles of my truck then switch to full suspension.

That's like saying wheel spacers are bad because they didn't want to spend the extra $700 on getting better offsetted rims. Not everyone wants to spend extra money on mild off roading

 

It hasn't been mentioned yet so I'll be the piñata, air bags on the rear axle and 5100's all around makes for a ride/height adjustable mod that won't break the bank and is reversible to stock so changes to longer travel options are still there. It's more of a road mod since you have to use cradles to get long travel but still viable for easier wheeling and if you're considering oba it is another way to dovetail with other things like lockers. It works well for load leveling and towing since it is fully adjustable and with oba and in-cab controls it can be on the fly as you drive so you can dial in leveling and response. It increases spring force without making any changes to rear suspension geometry. Bolts on between the frame and axle in place of the bump stops.

I thought our rear axles were spring under so while an aal will stiffen the rear it actually lowers the frame but increases spring force enough to raise the frame in spite of that. If long travel is in the future I would do a shackle flip instead. Then it's set up for a new leaf pack that's designed for what it does. The front end seems to be the more expense area parts wise and more labor/skills intensive so I would look there first to decide what my long range plans were. Unless you're one of the fortunate ones with loads of extra cash what makes the most sense now should be a step towards your long term goals.

 

Blocks are a cheap way to lift the truck, that's not disputed. Just that there's better ways that don't cost much more. Look, not everyone who drives dirt roads needs long travel with 3" shock bodies and bypass. But there's reasons you have to spend a minimum amount to get actual improvement. Spacers don't increase wheel travel (actually usually decrease it), negatively impact ride quality, increase risk for binding or excessive travel down.

There's nothing that's "good" about them for off highway use other than squeezing a bigger tire on, which is of marginal benefit anyway. Adding an inch of tire height isn't going to suddenly let your truck make it through the Hammers but will mean you need to think about new interferences with the sheet metal and new stresses on the drive train. And if you've lost useful travel to fit that larger tire you're actually making your truck worse off highway. A bigger tire is useless if it's hanging in space.

You really want as little lift as possible to fit the tires and accommodate wheel travel. The better way is $10 in Sawzall blades for your fenders. Even when you spend 5 figures on suspension you do that.

 

I like the KO2 look and their reviews. I would prefer the 265/70 for my 16" stock rims. I want to be able to keep the spare under neath the bed. Is this a problem? I know when you get too wide/thick they are too large to fit down there.

Without a lift these would fit stock?

Thanks for your help

 

You don’t need a lift for that, I used to have 265/75/16 and it was fine and I kept it under the bed at the time

 

The 2WD are spring under axle, 4WD and the Prerunner (6 lug) 2WD are spring over axle

That's the question ultimately. Throwing $100 down in blocks now for vanity is $100 you won't have saved for better suspension.

 

I run 265/70/17s and nothing larger will fit as a spare without modification. A larger tire will fit but you’ll have to do some cutting/bending.

I also have no lift. I would like the front to be 2” higher but I also like the look of minimal wheel gap.

My mpgs were effected but only by about 1 mpg total so not huge.

265/70/16s are about an inch smaller in diameter than mine so it will fit stock.

You could fit a 265/75/16 with no problem.

 

I'm running 265/70/17 with 5100's @ .85 and stock springs (installed at like 20k). It gave just enough clearance not to rub (removed small mudflaps).

 

I have 5100s set at 2.75 on the front with stock coils and aals on the rear. 265/75/16 tires. Rides good.

 

Thats a good looking rig. Looks just like mine except yours is level and your tires are dirty. LOL

Im going for the exact same look.