Long Travel BS Thread

This is me exactly... everyone comments how rough my truck rides on the road. It’s good through the bigger stuff Offroad but doesn’t handle chatter good at all. I’m considering getting a jeepspeed fuel cell to go in between the frame rails behind my axle just to move the fuel weight as far back as possible.. just seems like I can’t get enough weight back there to the point where it’s even worth trying to tune my suspension anymore than I already have.

 

Yeah mine is super stiff in the back, but the new hangers/shackles advertises an improvement there.

 

Bummer to hear that, I would have figured with the RTT and stuff that it would feel better with more weight on the springs. Atleast it feels good off-road though, my rear seems to skip around on shit.

 

I don’t have an Rtt anymore. It’s not terrible but I just wish it felt a little softer on some things.

 

Mine handles good on and offroad
It just feels stiff from a comfort aspect

 

Ah! I have gotten used to my stiff ass MT rear with the HD springs so Im sure it will be better than what it is now. Bummer on the RTT...Im guessing sold it for another project?

 

Use the stock mirror.... just take the bracke off the window and weld it on sumwhere....that’s what I did

 

I’ll trade you 2.5’s for 3.0’s and some dollars

 

The reason they feel stiff on the street, u ever look at bypasses with a bunch of compression tubes stacked right next to each other?? It’s so at ride height it’s super soft... but ramps up quick when it takes an impact..... solution.... weld more tubes to your shocks... it’s really not that difficult to do

 

So the answer is a 5 tube bypass?

 

The more bypasses the more control you have over how the shock handles

 

Yea I figured as much. Aye.

 

Unfortunately yea if u want a truck to be super squish plush in all situations

 

And more tubes = more bubes

So you'd have that going for you as well.

 

Yes you can get pretty good with valving and adjusting tubes but at the end of the day to get exactly what u want is a custom tube layout and a bunch of em

 

This is exactly the conclusion I've come to. I've got a full size spare in the back, boxed and braced frame and that is it. Off-road I am more than happy, it could soften up a bit so I am considering a lighter stack. Mine are 3 or 4 tube shocks (I don't recall, haven't driven the truck in 3 months or so) and all of the tubes are as open as they go.

 

Free bleeds all open? Real light rebound stack? Flutter the compression stack a little, and just turn the lil tube in some

 

Two free bleeds are open, I need to lighten the rebound stack to .008", and the compression is not a flutter. What would you suggest for the flutter stack?

 

What is in the compression right now? 15’s? Just put a small shim between the first and second big ones like a 15

 

There are a couple of solutions once your spring rate and valve stack are close...

Alot of the KOH guys use a "gold valve" which is a free flowing valve, mostly used because of the large unsprung weight, works good on some other applications as well....This requires a whole new shock package though.

Most likely what you guys need is to find bypass valves that have bleed holes in them. Use this bleeder/bypass valve in the tube in which your piston is during street driving. That way your chatter can "bleed" through the bypass and you will not effect your bump zone.