Dual VVT-i FJ Intake mod for Tacoma Single VVT-I engines.

Like stated because they are before the MAF (fpr hookup doesnt matter) its unmeetered air and would be the same as a vacuum leak.

 

Howdy folks, sorry I haven't been updating, been running through revisions and didn't want to make an update till I had made solid progress.

So here's where it stands now:




Stock 2013 FJ intake box output is 3.75" into a cut down 4"-3" (3.5"-3") cocktail shaker tube from Treadstone, it has a Treadstone airflow honeycomb straightener installed in it, 3" shoved into the tapper as far as it sould go, about 1/4 shy of the 3" end, fits snuggly and with the taper I have no worries about it moving. Then a 3" MAF tube again from Treadstone, and into the 2.7" throttle body.

The stock FJ MAF tube has been pluged with a 3/4"NPT to 1/2" barb fitting, which is then plugged with a 1/2" NPT to 1/4"npt nipple and 1/4"npt to 1/8" barb fitting which has the Fuel Rail Pressure Regulator run off it with 1/8" silicone Vacuum Hose. I drilled out the 1/16" hole in the barb fitting to 1/8" for better flow. Then the right head breather has a 1/4" male air line chuck wrapped in PTFE and pressfit into the head breather nipple, it's then connected to a 1/4" copper tube with rubber hose connectors (and worm hose clamps, not yet pictured, the OE style spring retainers didn't provide enough clamp at WOT to prevent vac leak) that I custom bent to run out the head nipple, make a 180, 90, follow the wire loom, cross tightly over the intake plenum, using a chunk of the old silicone hose from a failed previous setup as an insulator for noise and wear then accross the intake, another 180 and into the normally capped stock plennum vac nipple.

Whew!

So far no leaks, a definite increase in power no irradic MAF readings, better MPG and still running the OEM FJ air filter. Couldn't be happier.

Occasionally I will throw a lean code but I cannot locate a vacuum leak, I belive my fuel trims are off as my pump is original and has nearly 200k miles, I habe a URD pump and filter upgrade and replacment kit in the mail I will post my finding thereafter instal.

Future plans:

URD TB sizing plate to run true 3" 3UZ TBW Throttle body.

Install oil catch can with both head breathers plumed into it and back into stock PCV inlet. (PCV on left head and Open on right.) Then I will recap the stock nipple.

A 3/4 male to 1/8 female NPT plug to in theory improve fuel rail pressure readings. (Get rid of my fabricobbled reducer extension)

Replace the 3.5-3.5x3" coupler from the box to the shaker with an elbow to releave stress on angled worm clamp. (Have the part need time to install it this morning.)

Finish my Washer bottle mod and relocation. About 75% done, I need to extend the pump wires and fab up a bracket/ stand for the bottle, hopefully this morning, I will also be relocating my Power steering pump.

Make a "dual reservoir" to go in the space behind the right headlight that is roughly 75% washer bottle and 25% coolant resivoir.

Delete the stock plastic coolant resivoir.

 

Failure: poor flow, poor performance, tiny filter, potential for water intrusion, UGLY.



Failure: washer bottle contacts airbox clip, less than optimal flow, no mount for MAF, ugly.


Failure: 4" intake tube fits over FJ box outlet and is COMICALLY TOO LARGE also causing poor floor and performance too much volume not enough vacuum for MAF no air flow straightener for MAF right head breather capped.



Failure: Silicone vac hoses in back (blue) are too plyable and easily split, they tear where they are clammped causing vac leaks in about a week, got tired of fixing them, plus they were ugly. 3.5" intake tube is still TOO LARGE you cannot get a good MAF reading causing poor performance and hesitation. No airflow straightener irradic MAF readings accross vac range.


That has brought us to our current and working set up displayed in previous posting.

Here's some details of the tube and straightener:





Failure: previously mentioned blue hose shortcomings, poor fit ofcocktail shaker to FJ box, strees on short coupler.

 

Thoughts on mod so far:

Don't ask what I have invested!

At this point it's more a matter of man vs machine and I am determined to win.

This could be a cheaper intake upgrade than TRD or aFe or URD with just as much if not more benefit but it's taken a fair amount of trial and error as I am only an afro-engineer, not a paper toating desk jockey engineer and this ain't my day job. (Though I wish it were!!!) I stopped keeping track of the time and money invested for my sanity.

I love the aftermarket look and the stock filter, the FJ box and synthetic wool covered filter is exceptional at water removal!!! Tested a few non destructive ways and very impressed at it's ability to separate water.

More power and more MPG as measured via Torque app and butt dyno.



Q&A?

 

Also, you have your PCV system routed 100% wrong, it actually doesnt flow anything as both ends are on the vacuum side of the TB. Originally your blue line was before the TB on the "high pressure" side, which then air was pulled through the motor and out to the low pressure side past the TB.

The way you have it setup, there is no air flow through the motors crank and you will create sludge rather quickly.

 

The passenger valve cover port for the PCV hose needs to be routed into the intake that you have created, but after the MAF sensor. And then however the driver side was originally set up. The way you had it prior to the blue hose configuration was why you were getting a lean code condition. Because the fresh air to circulate through the PCV system was pre maf sensor

 

My brain hurts now. I applaud the DYI sentiment but why oh why? You're not gaining anything here. I first thought this was a head swap thread which would have been kinda cool but probably also a waste of time if moar power is what you're after...
And for the bigger throttle body: doesn't do shit unless your plenum opening is actually bigger than your throttle body diameter. Sorry if I come across like a negative Nancy. Just my $0.02

 

I am VERY curious if the DVVTI maf sensor would be plug and play with our wiring harness and ecu? I wonder if the DVVTI maf is calibrated to read the correct signal for our ecu since it is oem maf for this intake size. It may be calibrated the same as our maf but compensated for with the DVVTI ecu oem tune.

I think I confused myself there but what I mean is if we are cruising at say 2400 rpm and our maf is reading 200gps with SVVTI intake then we slapped on the DVVTI intake WITH the DVVTI maf and had the exact same conditions would our ecu see 200gps (accurate) or a lower reading since airflow would be slower with the larger intake?
I like the idea of this intake as the resonators can be swapped out with different sized Helmholtz resonators to eliminate or reduce unwanted noise. I guess I am one of the few that would actually like to hear my exhaust over my blower whine.
@Torspd thoughts?

 

It's a great modification and clearly provides a straighter pathway for intake airflow, but the statement above is as effed-up as a football bat. The diatomic oxygen in air does not "burn" and gasoline is not a "catalyst". Good gosh.

 

@Key-Rei how much more power and mpg did this get you?

 

The FJ/4Runner (Dual VVT-I engines) throttle bodies are a few mills larger than the single VVT-I TB's. The intake plenum opening is a larger bore than the OEM Tacoma opening.

 

@Key-Rei Please see this.... I could care less about the rest of this saga but having the pcv system hooked up improperly is a recipe for bad things.

 

I have seen a good while ago, was educated my another member here and it has been fixed, I just haven't had a chance to update with my current and more or less final redition. Thanks!

 

Power, negligible, wouldn't be able to tell without dyno of before and after, plus with my other mods it's really a toss up.

MPG, I notice about a 1-1.5mpg increase, it seems to rev easier and is more responsive ti throttle input, there was a definite change in engine sound, it seems to work less hard through out the RPM range.