Long Travel BS Thread

Right now compression is a .012" and the rebound is a .010".

I don't remember what kind of pistons I've got, I should of taken pictures of them. They are SAWs so hopefully they aren't the one version that flowed horribly. Does this "gold valve" use different bypass tube configuration or why would it require a new shock package?

So maybe taking out the bypass valves and adding bleed holes would help? I saw ODRMSE do some .095" holes on some a while back. Shouldn't be too hard, either set them up at the mill at home or bring them to the shop and use the hole popper. I wonder if this is something I should consider for the other TT we got. We bought some shocks and Brett King said they should be good out of the box with his TT valving. They work great in almost everything but they are horrible on small stuff and will rattle your bones.

 

That’s why u see a lot of fancy shocks with overlapping compression bypass tubes in certain spots, makes the shock flow realll easy in that chatter zone.

Lighten the rebound as much as you can, make sure all the free bleeds are open, try the flutter on the compression stack... seems like your shocks are just packing up really bad.

I had the same problem till I lightened the rebound and actually swapped to a 20 stack with a heavy flutter in it. Long comp tube dialed almost al the way out, rebound wide open, and the lil comp tube around the half way mark.... works great for me

 

Yeah a flutter stack will make a world of difference in the small chattery stuff, also I always say this but the best my dmz rear felt on the road was when we were loaded up with dirt bikes to go to the desert. Leaf springs just want more weight.

Side question: about to buy some used camburg mid travel arms for a first gen, since I'm new to first gens and haven't seen the arms first hand. Is there an identifier I can use to make sure they're actually camburgs arms? From pics the geometry looks like it.

 

I'm running drilled bleed holes, lightish rebound, light compression, tubes all the way out and still get the rough ride on the street. Fox shox. Much better once I got rid of my worn out F67's. It's also better when loaded.

 

Honestly when I had leaf springs I think they felt the best on road when I had no shocks lol. Its really going to be tough to get it to perform in the dirt and still ride like a caddy on the street. I think most of the problem is shaft speed, high speed chatter is going to be very fast shaft speeds and when mounted on the axle its really hard to dial that out and still have enough compression for big hits

So here is a deeper question, what happens to leaf springs rate as they compress? Is it a single rate and stay linear as it compresses? Or do they gain or lose rate as compressed? I would imagine from butt dyno that they start with a low rate at droop, it rises as they get close to ride height, then drops back off as the pack becomes flat

 

I don't expect it to ride like a caddy on the street, I except it to ride like similar to truck at least, not a rock. Lol I question the same thing regarding rate. I think you are partially right because isn't the shackle constantly changing the leverage on the springs?

 

I am not sure, I assume traditional vs inverted shackle makes a difference too

 

Leaf springs don't belong on off road trucks, obviously

 

FIFY lol

Solos ranger on Instagram was super impressive - it really shows the difference in what a dialed link setup can do. It is like night and day - if I ever link my truck it will have to be diy because it is a budget issue even then I'm sure. I'm looking forward to starting out with leafs and learn from the baseline of what most guys started with - helpful tuning info so far on this topic - but yeah not much in comparison between leafs and links. That said I still can't wait to swap my leafs out for some sua leafs and get to tuning for the best of both worlds!

 

I’m goin to links and doing it alllll myself.... still expensive lol

 

Who in here can tell me how to wire a relay from my onx6 bar to my switch pro in such a way that I can turn it on and off and not put the load on the switchpro?

Already have one onx6 on the switchpro so I can't add another 30amp item to the unit without a relay

 

use the relay output from the switchpro to trigger another relay.

 

I'm sorry man, can you write that in crayon?
Us Marines aren't too smart

 

lol sure.
so in the pic below, take the pos wire running to your existing light from the switch pro box, splice into it and run it to the green wire in the pic.

 

And that basically keeps the switch pro in control but takes the load off the unit?

 

correct, your switch pro is still turning on one light bar and also triggering a relay thats pulling power from the battery. Is your switch pro full?

 

Nope it's got 6 open spots
But a onx6 bar is 30amps
And I have 2 of them
The current switch pro is not designed to handle more than one 30amp device.
So if I want it to run both bars I have to remove that 30amp load from the switchpro

 

which bars do you have?

 

I would put both and all auxiliary lighting on relays and not load thru the switch.

 

The 30" onx6
One is set up as a white driving
And the other is set up as amber flood